Howdy folks. The ol 95 is giving me a few problems. I installed a B&M shift kit about 13,000 miles ago and haven't had any problems, other than recently it would slip in OD a bit. The reason behind this was because the shift kit instructed me to drill some holes in the seperator plate... to make a long story short the pump wasn't putting out enough pressure for the higher flow of fluid through the bigger holes. No biggy, they give you a spring to put in the pump to up the pressure, or a resistor to put in between the Red and White/Yellow wires going to the solenoid body connector to up the pressure electronically. I plugged it in when I first installed the shift kit, and it was SUPER harsh shifting. So I unplugged it and left it out. Well when it started slipping in OD, I plugged it in to see if that would help... well it helped too well. The shifts became extremely harsh as if it were in limp mode. I unplugged it, reset the computer, and it still won't ease up.

So now the you know the story... I need the answer to one question. The resistor goes between the Red wire (Vehicle Power) and the White/Yellow (Electronic Pressure Control) for the pump. If the EPC wire has 0 resistance from the Red power wire, will it increase or decrease the pressure?

My thought is that I may have burnt up a resistor in the PCM, thus not making any resistance, and possibly upping the pressure? Or does the higher resistance make for higher pump pressure... meaning that the EPC is getting full power from the Red wire? If I did fry a resistor in the PCM... and I can replace it with one externally in the harness... that would be wonderful.

I'll run out now and see if there's any codes in the computer. I have no CEL and the OD is not flashing... so I kind of overlooked checking that until now. I'll report back if I find anything.... but any ideas would be wonderful! Thanks!

 

Does the tranny have 233,000 too?

 

that doesnt sound good at all. did you double check all your wiring? i have no idea why it would cause that but i have a b and m shift kit right next to me, ill check it out but mine didnt come with a spring or yellow wire or white wire so maybe its a different one. should i not install it? anyone have this problem before?

 

I did mine in my E4OD a few months ago. That wire is supposed to trick the computer into telling the trans that its at full throttle when you are at 1/2. Did you install the Offroad or street/strip springs? Caus the street/stip will give you that shift super hard and super annoying. You do not have to install the spring in the pump, only if you have trans out.

 

The trans has about 14,000 on it now. All that the resistor does is increase the pump pressure. It doesn't trick the computer in any means. The computer has a resistor built into it to set the pump's pressure. It says you don't have to install the spring, but instead plug the resistor in.

The only thing I want to know is whether or not a higher ohm resistor will increase or decrease the pressure. And no the transmission does not have 233,000 miles on it. It has 14,000 just as my signature states.

One more note... This kit has been installed for 14,000 miles now and I haven't had a problem. The problem started when I installed the resistor supplied by B&M a few days ago. I disconnected it and the pumps pressure output is still high. And before I get questioned on that... yes I know the pumps pressure is high because when it's put in Reverse or 1 it boggs the engine down a bit, just like it did when I had my B&M Trickplus Electronic shift kit installed.

 

Factory tech valve body.

Far outweighs other shift kits for the e4od/4r100.

And the way I read your sig...I thought the 351 had 14,000!

 

Ahh I gotcha now! Sorry about that

I went out and pulled the codes. I got code 625 which is "EPC (Electronic Pressure Control) Driver Open in PCM." This would explain my hard shifting. I tested the pressure control wire (White with yellow stripe) and it's reading 12V all the time. Someone tell me if I'm looking at this correctly...

The EPC driver in the PCM probably raises and lowers the voltage to control the regulator on the pump. If anything goes wrong with the system, it will put full power (12V) through the wire, putting it in limp mode.

I guess from here what I need to do is either locate another PCM... or find out if there (was) a resistor in the PCM that lowered the voltage, or find out why the EPC driver is currently open all the time. I would rather not buy a new PCM, but if it's what I have to do then so be it. But does anyone know why the driver would be "open"... other than it being fried?

 

According to a website I just found... code 625 is present whenever the circuit is open, the solenoid is faulty, or the PCM is faulty. When I unplugged the resistor, I didn't hold onto the wire when I pulled it out. I used the 3M crimp on connectors with the female plug built into it that were supplied... but just remembered that the butt splices that I used to install my Electronic B&M shift controller are still there. But then again... if the wires came apart, I wouldn't be getting 12V down at the plug on the transmission would I?

Hmmm... I wish I had a detailed wiring diagram explaining resistance values and voltage numbers from the PCM down to the transmission. If this could be fixed by simply installing a resistor or whatever it takes to get the pump's pressure down... I'd be happy. I understand that the EPC driver will adjust the pressure depending on TPS placement and so forth... but I rarely romp on her, and don't need high pump pressure.

I guess the main question here is... could me installing a resistor that B&M supplied have fried the EPC driver...? Something just doesn't seem quite right. Anybody know why the Driver would be "open?"

 

I dont know about the voltage, but im sure that the B&M instructions that my shift kit had said that the link between the 2 wires was so you get better shifts at 1/2 throttle. My buddy works at a Ford dealer and ill see if I can get him to get the voltage or ohm readings for the trans.