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<i>I talked to someone else and they said it was no big deal the spindle is not pushing back out when you push it in, anyone know if thats true, passenger side moves back out and the driver side just stays in I push it back out to get it out.</i>
Yes its normal, the passenger side axle moves back out when you push it in because the rubber boot on the slip joint on the shaft pushes it back at ya, drivers side axle has no slip joint, no rubber to push it back out at ya.
And yea, always find more wrong when you start taking parts off!
You don't need a heavy brake foot, don't give it gas to move but taking your foot off the brake to let the truck move ever so slightly will sometimes make it drop into 4low easier. In time you'll learn how it "likes it" lol
yeah i shouldnt say pulling out kind of play i guess i would describe it, when you push one side it in comes back out but only so far but when you push the other side in it stays in wont come back out (it will only come out as far as the snap ring line but with no ring.
Finally I dont feel like I wasted 2 days, got the rusted hub lock off, lol I cant feel my arms inspected and cleaned to get it ready for grease, tommorow I will finally be able to get to the transfer case and maintance that and check those arms and fluid out, thanks for the help guys, I finally feel like this is going the way I planned, You would not believe how many mechanics I talked to that have no clue about those spindles, I really appreciate the feedback.
ON YOUR T-CASE ENGAGEMENT ISSUE:
Pull the boot off for the 4x4 shifter, reach down in there and find the bolts that hold the shifter bracket for the 4x4, check the linkages. In any case there is a large headed bolt, this bolt seizes up due to lack of use, poor design etc. DO NOT, crank on this hard or you will snap it, and trust me they are expensive. Remove the assembly, clamp in a vice, spray with blaster, or aero kroil to get bolts free. Remove the large dia bolt, clean up inside and out with a wire brush, lubricate with a good red grease, I used Lucas red N Tacky. When my friend broke his, we had it welded, (TIG) but we then did enough damage when he insisted on yanking on it, that we were able to drill in a grease fitting and well never a problem since. Whatever you, do, take the time to take apart that lever and linkage, clean everything up, make sure it works put it back together, and it will work just fine.
All went well got the linkage free'd up still letting it soak in there it will push down if i give it a little tap and I have to pull it back up to get it back to 2hi, still cant do it with just my hand yet but I have it flooded with pb blaster so I am hoping that will do the trick by sunday, if anyone knows any other good ways to free up that cylinder to make it go up and down a little easier please let me know, Thanks again everyone for the help you guys prolly saved me on this one.
All went well got the linkage free'd up still letting it soak in there it will push down if i give it a little tap and I have to pull it back up to get it back to 2hi, still cant do it with just my hand yet but I have it flooded with pb blaster so I am hoping that will do the trick by sunday, if anyone knows any other good ways to free up that cylinder to make it go up and down a little easier please let me know, Thanks again everyone for the help you guys prolly saved me on this one.
Well I guess the easiest way without taking the shifter off would be to unscrew the shifter boot from the floor and slide it up out of the way.
Then clip the little zip tie holding the top boot in place, then carefully spray lube inside it, then put a new zip tie on the boot. If you damage that boot, or the one at the bottom it won’t last long at all, all the road crap will kill it fast.
If you take the shifter off and flip it over you can get lube inside it without disturbing either one of the little rubber boots. Spray lube through the little hole in the bottom boot that the shifter index pin sticks out of. Leave standing upside down for a little while allowing the lube to work its way inside it.
Note: There is a small O ring on the shift indexing pin just inside the boot backing it up and helping to seal the opening.
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