93 4x4 system
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2007
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93 4x4 system
Hi I have a 93 F150 4x4 with manual hubs. I have a bad hub and replacing both tommorow with warn but I am also having a problem getting it into 4 low and n. It takes a good yank to get it into 4hi but it goes just will not go any lower. I got up underneath and sprayed some break loose to help possible rust, I am really hoping its not the t case motor. Any suggestions before I shell that change out would be helpful. Thanks.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,757
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From: Florida
First off, welcome to the forums...tons of useful information and tons of genius users on here...you will learn a ton.Can you clarify?You state that it takes a good yank to get er into 4HI but then right after that you say you hope the Tcase motor isn't bad.Is this truck manual shift tcase or electronic?First I'd try checking the fluid in the transfer case....if it's bad (dark or burnt) you need to replace it...if it's low...need to top it off...The fluyid level should be even with the bottom of the fill plug hole and fluid should start to dribble out when you pull the fill plug.Let us know what your findings are and we can go from there.Others will pipe up but enjoy the website.Later On
JR
JR
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2007
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Thanks for the welcome Ive been looking for a good place to join for awhile. It is a manual shift I will check the fluid tommorow I stole this truck from a ford mechanic for $1600 with 128,000 and is a straight 6 but it also has minor problem with throttle when I gas it and let off it and reapply it almost stalls, but back to the 4x4 I though for sure it was the arm its rusted but not horrible my dad who used to deal with fords back in the 70's told me to take the **** off and put a pipe on and give it a yank to free it but i was told the ford used many plastic parts on these transfer cases and i dont want to do more damage.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,757
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From: Florida
93.....BW1356......I'm not too familiar with em..and truth be told I wish they still manufactured the old NP205's...anyhow...by all means go ahead and check the fluid and drop a line...this is a great site like I said...you won't need any manual.....I'm Junior.Catch ya later
JR
JR
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Junior User
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I see lol thats why I confused you I was told the motor was bad but its manual haha a mechanic told me that today lol. The guy that sold me this truck complained to me that the guy he bought it from serviced the hubs and put them in backwards, I do have a bad hub now but he said it prolly would happen said no damage was done anywhere else. The guy I bought it from really took care of this truck and kept it up, and I was really surprised when I saw it and what he was asking but he had to get rid of it for a used one that was coming in at his work, he even undercoted it.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,757
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From: Florida
Where abouts are you at?Rust must not be too bad on her....get some pics up in your gallery so we can see the beast....make sure you pay attention to how the hubs went in and put enough grease in there......put manuals in if you weren't already gonna...the autos are crap.Luck
JR
JR
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
Once in 4h are you pushing the shifter straight down before pulling it back to get to Low?
And yea give it a good lube job.
And yea give it a good lube job.
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2007
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Well long day of nothing accomplished one of the hubs seems to be seized or rusted in and the other came out fine but the spindle on that one, when you push it, it goes in and I have to wiggle back out. The one that is seized when you push the spindle in it comes back out, anyone know what I am talking about, I think I am looking at a teardown if I want this fixed, any suggestions would be appreciated. I can do the hub but I am in a little uncharted territory with the spindle to the axle I was going to lubricate those bearings anyway but just bummed out.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
It is normal for the shaft inside the spindle to slide in to far to put the snap ring back on, you can reach in behind the steering knuckle and pull on the u-joint to bring it back out to put the snap ring back in the grove (depending on exactly what style lockouts you have) depends on what goes on before the snap ring and what grove is used and so on. Some stub shafts have one snap ring grove, some have only one, again depending on what lockouts it has.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
The axle withdraws back slightly once the snap ring is removed because of the spindle bearing/hub seal. It is rubber with a beveled flange that is pulled tight up against the inner end of the spindle itself. Keeps the needle bearings/hub clean and dry.
You won't see it until you pull a spindle out.
You won't see it until you pull a spindle out.
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Junior User
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Got 1 off and found the other had a bad seal and is rusted tight. I will work on it tommorow, talked to someone else and they said it was no big deal the spindle is not pushing back out when you push it in, anyone know if thats true, passenger side moves back out and the driver side just stays in I push it back out to get it out. Thanks for the feedback everyone, its always more than you bargain for isnt it. The transfer case job is tommorow or friday. I always engage 4 low and n in neutral with a heavy brake foot, it is a 5spd tranny hopefully that will go smoother. Anyone recommend a good oil for the transfer case I heard mobil 1 atf before?
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,816
Likes: 1
From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
Yes use ATF in your t-case.
As for the first part of your post I'm not sure I understand what you're talking about... The spindle is pulling out? The spindle should not move at all, its bolted to the truck.
As for the first part of your post I'm not sure I understand what you're talking about... The spindle is pulling out? The spindle should not move at all, its bolted to the truck.