fuel pump
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,795
Likes: 1
From: Rogue River, OR
Originally Posted by RÖENTGEEP
You can see here the tapet, is at the bottom of the fuel pump.
Please re-post that proceedure on removing a Cali pump that you posted a very short time back.
Rog
FOREIGN GURU
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 7,655
Likes: 7
From: Celaya, Gto. MX
CALIFORNA TRUCK FUEL PUMP R&Rffice
ffice" /><O
></O>
<O> </O>
Buy a 1/2 " drive, impact socket 1-1/4" and tack welded it to a piece of 1-1/4" black pipe, put it in a metal band saw and cut off the socket leaving only enough to grab the banjo bolt, then ground the tack welds off and ended up with a socket short enough to reach in and unscrew the banjo bolt. Using a 3/8 drive swivel head ratchet and a 3/8 to 1/2" drive adaptor, I managed to break the banjo bolt loose, and finally get it out. I loosened the fuel filter canister and slid it towards the fan, replaced all the fuel lines with Ford factory lines, and new crush washers on the banjo bolt, cleaned the screen on the FPR while I was there. To re-assemble I used a plastic tip off a silicone tube, (new here not used) shoved that into one of the holes of the banjo bolt and then a screwdriver into the tip of the tube,(sounds weird but it worked) shoving the banjo bolt into the fuel line assembly and the pump. Best part of all the truck fired right up with no leaks. Hope this info will help someone on their fuel pump replacement.<O></O>
The fuel dampener was not removed separately; I had loosened the fuel lines at the fuel galleys at the rear of the heads and slid the dampener/fuel line assay slightly towards the firewall. This allowed the lift pump to come pretty much straight up and out of the valley. It really went pretty smooth. I used a little light grease to hold the banjo bolt washers in place until I could get the banjo bolt started back in.<O></O>
for what its worth, Im now running no pulse dampener and it runs the same. Without the dampener it is much easier to get to the banjo bolt also.<O></O>
NOTE thats not mine, only I saved in my PC
ffice" /><O></O><O
> </O>Buy a 1/2 " drive, impact socket 1-1/4" and tack welded it to a piece of 1-1/4" black pipe, put it in a metal band saw and cut off the socket leaving only enough to grab the banjo bolt, then ground the tack welds off and ended up with a socket short enough to reach in and unscrew the banjo bolt. Using a 3/8 drive swivel head ratchet and a 3/8 to 1/2" drive adaptor, I managed to break the banjo bolt loose, and finally get it out. I loosened the fuel filter canister and slid it towards the fan, replaced all the fuel lines with Ford factory lines, and new crush washers on the banjo bolt, cleaned the screen on the FPR while I was there. To re-assemble I used a plastic tip off a silicone tube, (new here not used) shoved that into one of the holes of the banjo bolt and then a screwdriver into the tip of the tube,(sounds weird but it worked) shoving the banjo bolt into the fuel line assembly and the pump. Best part of all the truck fired right up with no leaks. Hope this info will help someone on their fuel pump replacement.<O
></O>The fuel dampener was not removed separately; I had loosened the fuel lines at the fuel galleys at the rear of the heads and slid the dampener/fuel line assay slightly towards the firewall. This allowed the lift pump to come pretty much straight up and out of the valley. It really went pretty smooth. I used a little light grease to hold the banjo bolt washers in place until I could get the banjo bolt started back in.<O
></O>for what its worth, Im now running no pulse dampener and it runs the same. Without the dampener it is much easier to get to the banjo bolt also.<O
></O>NOTE thats not mine, only I saved in my PC
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jaye
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
13
May 23, 2010 03:15 AM
