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Rebuilding the distributor

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Old Nov 18, 2007 | 11:10 AM
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Rebuilding the distributor

How difficult is it to rebuild the distributor? I would like to tear into it and see if one of the springs is broken or weak, I have to leave the vacuum advance unhooked to be able to run down the road w/o pre-detonating. It doesn't have any performance mods other than the ugliest 2" dual exhaust I have ever seen that runs out to the rear bumper. I am pretty sure it is not a performance enhancement, just loud.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2007 | 11:19 AM
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I just replaced mine. I just Went to napa and got a rebuilt one. I think it only cost $55, with a 20 dollar core
 
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Old Nov 18, 2007 | 09:19 PM
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To get to the centrifugal advance springs all you need to do is remove the vacuum advance and take off the breaker plate. The springs are right beneath the breaker plate. To make a quick check of the centrifugal advance, grab the rotor, twist in the direction of normal distributor rotation. It should turn a few degrees, when you let go it should gently spring back. It's not uncommon for them to freeze up with age. There is a small wick under the rotor which should be lubed with a couple drops of oil periodically. Start by checking your initial advance with a timing light. If it suddenly has a lot more initial advance than you originally set, then the centrifugal advance is probably frozen.

Lou
 
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Old Nov 19, 2007 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by scottfreeman
How difficult is it to rebuild the distributor? I would like to tear into it and see if one of the springs is broken or weak, I have to leave the vacuum advance unhooked to be able to run down the road w/o pre-detonating. It doesn't have any performance mods other than the ugliest 2" dual exhaust I have ever seen that runs out to the rear bumper. I am pretty sure it is not a performance enhancement, just loud.
If you decide to get a new distributor, consider our custom curved Duraspark Distributor built with our new Full Length Oil Impregnated Bronze Bushing. The full length bushing improves timing stability and spark scatter. If stock appearance is not an issue, take a look at our one piece D.U.I. Distributor. Whether you choose the Duraspark or the D.U.I., we curve each on a distributor machine based on your engine combination. Please see them at:

http://www.performancedistributors.com/forddistributor.htm


Also, there is now an excellent installation article on the D.U.I. Distributor on the Ford-Trucks.com site at:


https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/0/358/article/DUI_Ignition_Installation_In_A_Ford_351W_V8.html
 
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Last edited by PerfDistIgnition; Nov 19, 2007 at 12:20 PM.
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Old Nov 19, 2007 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by scottfreeman
How difficult is it to rebuild the distributor? I would like to tear into it and see if one of the springs is broken or weak, I have to leave the vacuum advance unhooked to be able to run down the road w/o pre-detonating. It doesn't have any performance mods other than the ugliest 2" dual exhaust I have ever seen that runs out to the rear bumper. I am pretty sure it is not a performance enhancement, just loud.
While most V8 dizzys from 1965/72 use the same parts, vacuum advances and springs are specific to size of the engine, type of transmission and smog equipment. To get the correct parts, a dizzy Ford ID number is needed. The number will be found on the curved part of the body, just below where the cap sits. Points/condenser/rotor/cap/dizzy bushings/breaker plate/primary wire are the same for most V8's from 1958/73. Ford replaced the two piece breaker plate used since 1958, with a one piece design in 1972.
 

Last edited by NumberDummy; Nov 19, 2007 at 12:25 PM.
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Old Nov 19, 2007 | 07:26 PM
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From: "Islander"
NumberDummy;
where can a person get the old style FE vacuum advance unit that had a threaded cap with a vacuum nipple? With this old style you can change when the vacuum advance begins as well how many degrees total, a lot better than single adjustment units the likes chebbie's use.
The only source I have for another vehicle (4.6 Discovery) is rebuilt units from Oz. When I get down to the last one I may have to send a FE unit to Oz for rebuild.
Support our brothers down under, hey Fred got a bier?
 

Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Nov 19, 2007 at 07:39 PM.
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Old Nov 20, 2007 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Beemer Nut
NumberDummy;
where can a person get the old style FE vacuum advance unit that had a threaded cap with a vacuum nipple? With this old style you can change when the vacuum advance begins as well how many degrees total, a lot better than single adjustment units the likes chebbie's use.
B9AF-12370-A .. Vacuum Advance (Motorcraft DD-9) ~ 1958/64 FE

C5AZ-12370-A .. Vacuum Advance (motorcraft DD-190) ~ 1965/67 FE

D2PZ-12370-G .. Vacuum Advance (Motorcraft DD-375) ~ 1968/72 FE
 

Last edited by NumberDummy; Nov 20, 2007 at 07:47 AM.
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Old Nov 20, 2007 | 07:27 AM
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Vac nipple

Originally Posted by Beemer Nut
NumberDummy;
where can a person get the old style FE vacuum advance unit that had a threaded cap with a vacuum nipple? With this old style you can change when the vacuum advance begins as well how many degrees total, a lot better than single adjustment units the likes chebbie's use.
The only source I have for another vehicle (4.6 Discovery) is rebuilt units from Oz. When I get down to the last one I may have to send a FE unit to Oz for rebuild.
Support our brothers down under, hey Fred got a bier?
I happen to have one of those on one of my parts trucks that has a 360 in it, maybe I will freshen it up while I am driving with the other one.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2007 | 10:33 AM
  #9  
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From: "Islander"
Thanks Numbers, I know they are no longer available thru Ford or any parts house due to smog laws in Cali many many years ago.
I always collect them when at Pick-N-Pull.
I paid $43 for the last one on my Rover motor it has a better diaphragm material than OEM that fails within 2 years like clockwork and at $137 each.
This was remanufactured in Oz and is has a softer material diaphragm inside, amr. Motor never ran so good. This with the same amount of vacuum advance.
Last time I checked they will do Ford's also.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2007 | 02:42 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by Beemer Nut
Thanks Numbers, I know they are no longer available thru Ford or any parts house due to smog laws in Cali many many years ago.
I always collect them when at Pick-N-Pull.
I paid $43 for the last one on my Rover motor it has a better diaphragm material than OEM that fails within 2 years like clockwork and at $137 each.
This was remanufactured in Oz and is has a softer material diaphragm inside, amr. Motor never ran so good. This with the same amount of vacuum advance.
Last time I checked they will do Ford's also.
I sent you an email on where to get B9AF, and C5AZ-12370-A is still available from Ford, I just checked Direct Ford's website. List is $40.82 / FTE net is $21.84
 

Last edited by NumberDummy; Nov 20, 2007 at 02:45 PM.
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Old Nov 20, 2007 | 04:51 PM
  #11  
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From: "Islander"
Thanks Bill, i'll get in contact soon as I have time to breath.
Wife at PT (total knee replacement) son at 16 four wisdom teeth
pulled today, SSD attorney meeting on an on. Remember when we
were young and life was life simple?
 
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Old Nov 21, 2007 | 09:47 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Beemer Nut
Thanks Bill, i'll get in contact soon as I have time to breath.
Wife at PT (total knee replacement) son at 16 four wisdom teeth
pulled today, SSD attorney meeting on an on. Remember when we
were young and life was life simple?
I could use TWO knee replacements, but you know how the Veterans Administration works...actually doesn't work. I've been the wisdom teeth route, and I won the SSD case.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2007 | 05:01 PM
  #13  
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From: "Islander"
This last knee replacement bill was $104,750 this included 4 days at $2,000 a day, wife was to stay 5 days but wanted the heck out of there for a quiet nights sleep at home. My copay was $40, love my Union medical plan.
how bad were you beat up when you applied for SSD and how many tries before getting your award?
 
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