When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 63' unibody singlecab long bed that i am going to put a 302 with a C4 in and there is no way I am going to put a two piece driveshaft back in it, so my quesstion is, will a one piece drive shaft from a different vehicle work with my application or will I have to have one custom made?
The longbeds use a carrier bearing type shaft. Dont waste effort trying to match a single one up. You are putting a non stock legenth engine and transmmission combo in the uni.
What one guy uses probally not fit another guys project. this is due to the many variables as to where you place the engine.
Here in Phoenix we get custom made 4" aluminum drive shafts made for $250.. Steel is cheaper. Check out you local four wheel drive center. They will point you to the right guy as four wheelers get shafts made all the time.
My dad told me that the drive shaft from a 1964 galaxie might work. I messured the wheel base. The car is only 9" different but the shaft does appear to reach not sure yet.
I have a 63' unibody singlecab long bed that i am going to put a 302 with a C4 in and there is no way I am going to put a two piece driveshaft back in it, so my quesstion is, will a one piece drive shaft from a different vehicle work with my application or will I have to have one custom made?
All Ford longbed trucks use a 2 piece driveshaft/coupling shaft, with a driveshaft center support (carrier bearing) between them. There's not a single one piece driveshaft from another truck that will work.
1960/64 Galaxies have a 119" wheelbase, the extension housing is shorter than a truck uses, the front yoke/companion flange are different than what a truck uses, a driveshaft from a Galaxie will not work in a truck.
Do what garbz suggests, have a one piece driveshaft made.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Nov 14, 2007 at 05:04 AM.
numberdummy: my 84 f150 longbed has a single driveshaft. it has a c6 automatic, but the door sticker trans code is C, which means 3 speed manual, i think. that, plus the fact that the transmission wiring harness has about 2 feet of extra length tied to the frame makes me believe someone changed the transmission.
do you think this truck originally had a two piece shaft?
numberdummy: my 84 f150 longbed has a single driveshaft. it has a c6 automatic, but the door sticker trans code is C, which means 3 speed manual, i think. that, plus the fact that the transmission wiring harness has about 2 feet of extra length tied to the frame makes me believe someone changed the transmission.do you think this truck originally had a two piece shaft?
Someone did change the transmission. C = Ford 3.03 3 Speed Manual all Syncro.
Driveshafts can both be found and made to work. I run a single shaft in my long bed. I did have to have the donor shaft shortened at a local driveshaft shop, cost about $125.00 6 years ago. No problems that I am aware of resulting from running a single shaft.
I just finished a 302/C4 swap into a '66 F-100 longbed. I used a '79 F-150 as the donor truck. The '79 one-piece driveshaft needed to be shortened about 2 inches. The rear u-joint even matched up to the '66.
Make sure to remove the carrier bearing support if you go to a one-piece shaft. The support is riveted to a frame cross member.
Good luck.
Roger Carter
john, i have a few dumb questions about your swap: with a single drive shaft, the length has to be fairly precise, doesn't it? if so, how was that accomplished? did the shop have to have your truck to do the work?
second, do you remember which shop did it? or is this something that lots of places can do?
and the final really dumb question is this: with a single solid shaft, is it hard to get it in and out? all my experience is with the double shaft, which has some play in the center bearing, and the sliding yoke in the rear section, so it's pretty easy to get the universal joints in and out. but with a single shaft, it seems that the joints would be hard to work with. and now that i think about it, when the rear axle moves up and down, it seems that the solid shaft would make the axle move in an arc (a very tiny arc, to be sure), instead of straight up and down. what am i missing here?
The shaft does need to be measured correctly. I swapped in a C6 and it uses a slip yoke, and has some travel room. I think my shaft could have been an inch longer but I have not had any problems. I dry fitted mine and took measurements.
I used Triangle Driveshaft Service 3424 Paulwood Ct. Durham NC 919-688-2544 They are in the yellow pages in the Durham book. Check around there could be someone closer to you.
When installing you slip the shaft into the hole on the tranny and tie it up at the rear. Not hard at all.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.