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Hi everyone! I reviewed 25 pages of questions, and could not find a single one that answered my particular question, so I am hoping someone will know the answer!my check engine light is on, and one of the codes is 1309. the print out says "misfire monitor aice chip fault monitor disabled" definition- misfire monitor disabled. Probable causes- #1- verify camsensor is synchronized. #2-ecm failure. #3- verify input parameters are correct. The other two codes that the diagnosis identifies were, slow oxygen sensor, and misfire detected in cylinder #1. I have read enough to figure out how to check the cop to see if it is good ( already changed the #1 plug- that did not work) but I do not know what to do about the code #1309. does anyone know what an aice chip is? and does anyone know WHY the ecm would disable a monitor? I cannot figure that out. it just doesn't make any sense to me. thanks so much! robyn
thanks, Steve. My truck is a 1998 expedition. It has a 5.4L engine, auto trans., i do not have a clue what a drive train is...but is is a 4wd. I never use that though. I do not have a clue what order they were issued in. but I do know that I've been getting theP0133 for a few months on and off. they told me at the parts place that eventually it would come on and stay on, but it hasn't stayed on except this last time, which started last mon, (10-22) The second would be 0301, misfire in cyl#1. and the third would be the1309. I was driving in a storm worse than any hurricane I've ever been through when the truck started acting crazy. It felt like it would die, the rpm's fluctuate up-down, up- down. leaving the ac off doesn't make a difference. when I get about to shift gears, and please don't ask me which one it is because I don't know- but it is every time, at 30, at 40. even from a complete stop. my truck felt like an old man. It wouldn't get out of its own way. kind of scary. people in my town drive crazy.if i back off the accerator the bucking would stop, but it would start if i increased speed or slowed down enough say from 42 to 32. it doesn't seem to want to stay ingear. or maybe thats exactly what it wants and i'm driving too fast/slow. i know, i'm acting like it's a person. beleive me i'm used to dealing with difficult people, this is just one more! I bought plugs, only changed the #1 so far. replaced a hose. goes from intake to behind what used to be the carberator. i'm sorry. i don't know what its called. i am really stupid about motors. but im trying to learn as much as possible because i have to do this. i have somneone to help me but they don't know any more than me. applying knowledge is more difficult than learning it. this is the easy part, and its been tough. thank you so much. robyn
sorry, I thought of something else. the engine light would blink every once in a while. hasn't blinked since changing hose and plug. drives so much better in colder weather. but its warm again and driving like you know what. will drive good when i first start it up in the morning. most of my trips are short no more than 2-3 miles, roun trip. so i don't always notice symptoms. they get worse the longer i'm driving. when taking off from a light, if i give it a little gas it bogs, if i give it a bunch, it hesitates, catchtes and goes, until i get to about thirty, then again to about 42. i never have to go faster than that in town. i've been babying it since this happpened, you know like taking my time, not punching the gas. cause my truck used to go. i can drive it without the light blinking which i know is important if i drive slow. but i don't like it because when driving there are situations where you need to hurry and move. out of the wayof idiots. thanks robyn
yesterday I went to autozone to have them pull the codes for me so I could post the exact order, and see if they were all still there, but they were too busy. I did pick up a magnetic spark plug socket(they are so cool!), anyway when I left, the light was off. but the truck still runs the same-bad! could the extrememly low humidity and cooler temps have anything todo with it I wonder? I'd still like to know what P1309 means. anyone ever come across that one?
thank you FTE HERMAN! I guess I still need to learn how to use the search feature. But I still have two questions. do you know what a break out box is? and what on earth is FUBAR? I've never heard of that expression before. thanks so much. robyn
FUBAR - Military expession for F***(oul)ed Up Beyond All Recognition
A break out box (BOB) is a piece of test equipment that plugs inline with a harness and has a test plug available for each signal line. Dealers should have them, but they're otherwise unavailable to the general population at a reasonable cost unless you get lucky.
The P1309 fault code indicates that misfires have been occurring at a rate that exceeds the computer's capability (inluding a special ASIC chip for that purpose) to count them. Your flashing CEL is another indication of a severe misfire.
I'd suspect you have several faults: 1) Misfires. Most critical. If left unattended to, your catalytic converters will be ruined if they haven't been already. 2) Upstream O2 sensor on the passenger side. The O2 fault code may, however, be related to the misfires or to 3) Possible vacuum leak.
I'd recommend you focus on the misfire condition first. Spark plugs alone usually don't fix them on a 5.4 and new COP is also often needed. Additionally, use of only Motorcraft or Autolite plugs is highly recommended.
Thank you so much for clearing that up for me, i never would have guessed. kind of scary thinking about what type conditions our soldiers would use that to describe. well, thanks for the info, i do apreciate it. robyn
Thank you so much for clearing that up for me, i never would have guessed. kind of scary thinking about what type conditions our soldiers would use that to describe. well, thanks for the info, i do apreciate it. robyn
With the limited data available, I would neither encourage nor discourage its replacement. Typically, CKP sensor failures also have misfire codes from multiple cylinders, usually most of them.
The only specific misfire fault code data presented so far is from a single cylinder with a repair process that is generally ineffective (plug only was replaced).
Again, I'm suspecting multiple faults exist, a situation that does not lend itself to an easy solution.
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