If a 2-post lift is not available, then as Kepler4 mentioned, remove the engine from the truck.

 

That's why I included pulling the engine. I understand your reasons for wanting to do an in-frame, cab-on stud job, but that certainly has it's own set of challenges. That's also why I think it would be most interesting to know just how much time that young man took to do the job on his dad's 6.0. Did he save any time by leaving the engine in the truck?

BTW Blackhat, another outstanding, well thought out post (#15).

 

There are several problems with this method:

1) How does the mechanic know for sure that the head gaskets have not started to errode (fail) at some location.

2) How does the mechanic know that the heads & block surfaces are flat, now that the head bolts have been loosened.

3) How is the mechanic going to properly chase & clean the bolt holes before installing the new head studs.

4) Head studs are to be installed finger tight in properly prepared block (threads chased & clean) using the proper lubricant, not installed using the "double nut" method in an improperly prepared block.

This mechanic "on the side" (ie no overhead or insurance) is "supposedly" saving the client $500-600 by not removing the cab or pulling the engine in order to properly inspect the heads, block, head gaskets and chase & clean the threads in the block.

There are to many places for this type of install to go wrong, not to mention the re-use of the head gaskets. So when the job has to be re-done correctly you have not saved any money, you have actually cost yourself additional money.

 

Nice use of searching on the internet and copy/paisting info into a thread.


Im out; to many internet warriors

 

Always interesting how those who do not back up there posts with verifiable facts, scream the loudest and run for the doors when their opinions are shot down with verifiable facts.

 

Had you done some research yourself, Blackhat wouldn't have had to do it for you.

 

I dont see you out working on your truck; yep Im going out the door to work on my truck not sit on the internet and talk about it.

 

As I said earlier; I guess I better go pull the motor out of my 9 second Lightning and put some locktight on the studs.


Ya'll have fun

 

What are you, 5??
Why don't you stamp your feet and throw a temper tantrum while you're at it!!

 

A torgue wrenches indirectly measures tension and is significantly affected by the friction of the mating surfaces by as much as 28% error
Measuring the elongation of the stud by using a dial indicator is the proper way to apply the correct amount of tension, but can be sometime impractical to measure.

Asuming that Diesel Kid was able to remove and re-install the heads, which base on the photo's it does appear so, how would one measure the deck face (flatness) of the block? And if not correct, how can it be made correct while the engine is in?

 

Guess you didn't hear/read what you wanted and got upset, so be it.

One guy out of ??? did it so, yes, it can be done. Is it an effective manner in which to do the job properly? The ball is in your court on that decision. Contact the guy (Irony: link provided....) and chat it up. There's nothing wrong with posting links to back up statements.

Anyway, if you get stuck or have further questions, someone will be here on FTE to assist.

 

I personally have seen two trucks get studded and gasketed with the cab on, and, holy crap, in addition to taking what seemed like forever, I would have had to spend a year at the chiropractor to alleviate the back pain from leaning over the fenders. I seen 20+ trucks done, have personally done my own (yes I have the luxury of access to hoists) and would never attempt to do it with the cab on. Removing the cab effectively turns the truck into an engine stand with easy access. Can it be done with the cab on? Yes. Is it easier with the cab off? Absolutely. Is it quicker in the long run with the cab off, including cab R&R? Undoubtedly.


Tim

 

I just finished putting the heads on another 6.0 today and no I do not take the cab off. I chase the threads when the heads are off and I put the studs in the three bottom and two rear top on the passenger side and I use rubber bands to hold the studs flush with the bottom of head. I put the head in, and then screw the studs in. It works pretty good, just seems like a lot of work pulling the cab to me. The driver side is pretty simple which I put the head on and then screw in the studs. This is the seventh one I have done like this. I have had pretty good sucess with doing it this way. Hope this helps.

 

When I did mine it took me about 24 labor hours to do it with the cab on. I ended up taking the grill, bumper, core support, coolers, and such off and was about to basically walk up to the motor that way and it worked pretty good. Its a JOB to say the least.

A trick on the back studs if you dont want to fight rubber bands is put a nut on the end of the stud and cut some hose the length to hold the stud up high enough and slip it over the stud. Works really good.

 

I recently helped a friend who was insistent on doing his in the truck, cab on. Even though both of us are considered good wrenches, have all the tools imaginable, and definitely do not work slow, we had 9 hours in it the first day and about 5 the next. In addition, both of our backs were pretty thrashed from leaning over the fenders for a day and a half. Granted, we are both very meticulous, and if we were flat rating I am sure it could be done quicker. In contrast, I did my truck by myself, cab off. It was the first one I had ever done, my truck is very, very clean and I am beyond **** with it, so I was in no particular hurry, as I wanted to do the job damage free. I did it in 2 consecutive 8 hour days, and this included some time running parts, getting the exhaust manifolds to the ceramic coaters, replacing the factory harmonic balancer with a Fluidampr, and doing some miscellaneous things. As I had posted above, there is no doubt it can be done cab off, but everyone I know who has done them both ways doesn't even consider doing them cab on any more. It really is nice to walk right up to the engine like it is on an engine stand. But, regardless of what other people think, if you are having success doing them cab on, and it doesn't bother you to work in a semi confined space, then definitely keep doing them! By the way, are you using a torque multiplier to assist in the torquing in the engine compartment?