Anyone done the job themself? Without lifting the cab? Just trying to find out the info as to if the job is possible; how long it took; soforth?

 

There is no way to install head "Studs" on the 6.0 without either removing the cab or pulling the engine. Either way works choose the method you are most comfortalble with.

Head "bolts" can be installed with the engine in the truck and the cab in place but it is a pita.

 

this guy did it

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=45285

 

A stud is no longer than a bolt; just double nut it and it should go in or out without a problem???

 

[QUOTE=doubledee715]this guy did it

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45285[/QUOTE]

Thank you! That is what I was looking for. Any other links like that you know of???

 

that's the only one. that is the only guy i've ever heard of doing it like that. you can sign up and pm him for more info if you want. I'm sure he'd be happy to help.

 

That is not the way studs are installed, you do not double nut studs to install them. You must clean all the bolt holes in the block to remove all oil/grease/dirt. Install each stud finger tight with lock tight on the threads. Then install head gaskets and finally place heads over the studs. There is not enough room under the hood to do this correctly and properly. In addition the head stud nuts are torqued at a much higer number than the bolts and the clearance for the torque wrench is not there.

If you are going to go to the trouble to install head studs then do it right or do not do it at all.

 

Hmmm; guess I need to pull the motor out of my 9second Lightning and put some lock tight on the studs since I installed them with ARP moly and not "lock tight" as you are telling me..........

 

ARP assembly lube and Lock-tite are interchageable for head stud install.

 

If your studs are truly "no longer than a bolt" then your bolts are too long. Studs should bottom in the hole, bolts must never.

 

ARP lube and 30w are interchangeable, but with different TQ specs......... The purpose is a "lube" so it gets correct TQ; the issue is not about it backing out where you need a "lock-tite" the issue is getting the proper TQ(this TQ brings the stud into its correct "streatch" which you need a lube prevent a binding which would cause a false TQ, and the stud not have the clamping power it needs................

 

I think I know the answer to this but... There is a mechanic at one of the local Ford dealers that claims that you can swap out the bolts for studs by the double nut method without changing the head gaskets if they are in good shape ie: never used tuner & low miles. He does this work on the side not at the dealer and charges $1000 + studs. Does anyone think that this would work?

 

Seems to me since only one twenty year old Diesel mechanic has left the 6.0 in the truck to do studs, then it must not be the way to go! I applaud his effort and success, but to do the job properly and safely the engine should come out or the cab should be lifted. It would be interesting to compare the shop time between the different methods.

The four 6.0 Technicians I spoke with all highly recommend cab-off because of the excellent access to the engine components.

 

And all of them have easy access to a 2 post lift to lift the cab........ Not everybody has a 2 post lift at their house......

 

While it is true that a "lube" changes the friction coefficient and a fastner must be properly stretched. Since different "lubes" or products (ie ARP assembly lube, loc-tite, hi temp silicone, 30W oil) cause different coefficients of friction and if the correct lube for each fastner and application, as spelled out by the fastner manufacture, is Not used then improper bolt stretch will occur do to improper torque loads being achieved. ARP states to use ARP assembly lube, loc-tite or hi temp silicone to properly intsall ARP head studs. They do not mention using 30W oil in place of ARP assembly lube, loc-tite or hi temp silicone when installing ARP head studs.

"Prior to installing your “new” head studs, it is very important that you have clean surfaces to start. First, clean all the threads in the block with a thread chaser; make sure that you go all the way to the end of threads in the hole. This will also ensure that you get full thread engagement of the stud in the block. Next, clean the threads with brake or carb clean to remove any thread sealer, lube or antifreeze that may be on the threads. Then, clean the threads on the fastener. Use a liberal amount of ARP Thread Sealer, hi temp silicone or loc-tite on the threads to ensure that there will be no air pockets which can cause leaks. Then follow the instructions for installing the fasteners.
You may use loc-tite or any thread locker instead of ARP Assembly Lube. Always ensure threads are clean prior to applying any lube product. When using loc-tite, make sure you assemble the parts before the loc-tite cures. You can use loc-tite instead of ARP Assembly Lube, but do not use them together.
The studs should be installed finger tight. Then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch only on the vertical axis."
www.arp-bolts.com/FAQ/FAQ.html

It appears you are confusing ARP head stud install with some of the other ARP fastners that "can be" installed using 30W oil provided the alternate torque specs, supplied by ARP, are used when using 30W oil instead of ARP assmebly lube or other product as specified by ARP. Failure to use the proper "lubricant" & torque specifications as provided by ARP will result in improper fastner stretch and premature fastner failure.

"The lubricant used is the main factor in determining friction, and therefore, the torque for a particular installation. Motor oil is a commonly used lubricant because of it’s ready availability. If less friction is desired in order to install the fasteners with less torque, special low friction lubricants are available. With special lubes, the required torque can be reduced as much as 20 to 30 percent. It is important to keep in mind that the reverse is also true. If the torque value has been specified for a particular fastener on the basis of low friction lube, installing the fastener with motor oil will result in insufficient preload; the torque has to be increased to compensate for the extra friction caused by the motor oil.

Friction is an extremely challenging problem because it is so variable and difficult to control. The friction factor changes from one application to the next. That is, the friction is at its highest value when the fastener is first tightened. Each additional time the fastener is torqued and loosened, this value gets smaller. Eventually the friction levels out and becomes constant for all following repetitions. The best way to avoid the pitfalls of friction is by using the stretch method. This way preload is controlled and independent of friction. Therefore, when installing a new bolt where the stretch method cannot be used, the bolt should be tightened and loosened several times before final torque. The number of cycles depends on the lubricant. For ARP recommended lubes, five loosening and tightening cycles is sufficient.

Surface finish is also important. For example, black oxide behaves differently than a polished fastener. It is therefore important to observe the torque recommendations supplied with each fastener."
www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechInstall.html