headers
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,323
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From: Montana Territory
You can do that with either one, just a lot easier with chassis exit headers. An exhaust shop is going to charge you $600 for exhaust anyway, and your concerns about the starter are basically nonexistant, you will be able to get it out without removing the header.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,133
Likes: 3
From: Dracut, Massachusetts
Originally Posted by garypettengill
OK, time for me to chime in. Sanderson Headers in California makes a set of shorty headers which will fit perfectly and look great. Somebody else said it, "you get what you pay for". Check my galley under "Headers 101". I bought a set 2 1/2 years ago and they still look like they did the day I installed them. Oh, both sides intalled from the top with the bubble wrap still on them to protect them. They have 3/8" flanges to prevent warping and ceramic coating. I talked real nice with the lady and she included the "adapter"(a thick copper gasket to use with 2V heads), and the angled collector to help direct the exhaust pipe away from everything. I have no more heat issues then with the stock exhaust and the "Y" pipe although I did wrap my starter just to be safe. I evently had my "Y" pipe ceramic coated, looks better and helps with heat around the oil pan. Here is the link to Sanderson: http://www.sandersonheaders.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=fc3&search_in_ description=1&x=13&y=8
Last edited by 77f2504by4; Nov 30, 2007 at 09:58 AM.
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F150pete
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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