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I have some hooker fender exit headers on my 77 with a 400 in it. They're pretty low quality yeah, the "paint" that was on them pretty much just chipped off in shipping, and they do look kind of crude but....they work, they dont leak or anything.
Personally, i dont care about looks at all, as this truck is just a mud bogger i built up. They rusted up in about a month....i dunno if that matters to you or not. The truck has about a 6 inch suspension lift, and maybe a 4 inch body lift. I have 44" tires on it, and they rubbed slightly on the headers for a little while on tight turns, but i think i banged them out of the way now as i dont hear anything. Installing them on the passanger side isnt a real big deal, i think you'd probably have to trim the inner fender if you dont have a body lift, and they ride VERY close to the body mount bracket on the frame, i had to cut the body mount bolt down a little bit to get them to fit.
The driver's side i had to remove the steering shaft to squeeze them in there, but it's pretty much the same story as the other side.
Im going home (from Military College) for christmas break when i will have time to do some work. I heard that theres prblems with hooker headers and clearing the front leafspring bolts. I am also concerned with which headers will deny access to the starter. will any? Again its a 4x4 F350 with 351m. I need someone with a similar package or pictures of the headers installed.
thanks very ,much
-Pete
Last edited by Ranger73; Nov 25, 2007 at 10:38 PM.
Im going home (from Military College) for christmas break when i will have time to do some work. I heard that theres prblems with hooker headers and clearing the front leafspring bolts. I am also concerned with which headers will deny access to the starter. will any? Again its a 4x4 F350 with 351m. I need someone with a similar package or pictures of the headers installed.
thanks very ,much
-Pete
OK, time for me to chime in. Sanderson Headers in California makes a set of shorty headers which will fit perfectly and look great. Somebody else said it, "you get what you pay for". Check my galley under "Headers 101". I bought a set 2 1/2 years ago and they still look like they did the day I installed them. Oh, both sides intalled from the top with the bubble wrap still on them to protect them. They have 3/8" flanges to prevent warping and ceramic coating. I talked real nice with the lady and she included the "adapter"(a thick copper gasket to use with 2V heads), and the angled collector to help direct the exhaust pipe away from everything. I have no more heat issues then with the stock exhaust and the "Y" pipe although I did wrap my starter just to be safe. I evently had my "Y" pipe ceramic coated, looks better and helps with heat around the oil pan. Here is the link to Sanderson: http://www.sandersonheaders.com/adva...ion=1&x=13&y=8
What is the difference between an old motor and a new motor?? They both will spit out hot exhaust, or did I miss something in the only week of chemistry class I took?
No, you missed something in engine assembly class. Ceramic coated headers really shouldn't be used to break in a 'new' engine... the high heat of sitting still revving @ 2500 RPM for 20 minutes will ruin the coating.
What im trying to figure out is which headers will allow access to the starter if i need to remove the starter.im looking for long headers.
thanks guys
-Pete
Um.. my 523" (460 stroker) in my Cougar uses a mini starter. NO problems at all. it's a PMGR type. Cranks that puppy over like anything. When the starter dies in my F100, I'll be adding one to that as well.
Taken from 460ford.com:
Autozone has them here, under the Duralast brand.
Part number for the auto trans starter is DL 3226S
Part number for the man trans starter is DL 3225S
These numbers are listed for a 1996 F250 with the 7.5L gas engine.
This is with a C6 and a 460. I'm not up on the flexplate differences between a 460 and a 351M, but I suspect there is an interchange for the 351M/400.
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