I have a 1993 Ford Ranger and I am trying to bleed the brakes. I am having trouble getting the bleeder valves loose. Is it possible to bleed the brakes at the brake lines?

 

Welcome to FTE.

If you open the brake lines at the wheel cylinder, you'll likely introduce air that'll end up in the wheel cylnder & can't be removed unless the bleed valve is working.

So do what you can, to get the wheel cylinder bleed screw loose, or just replace the wheel cylinders if you must.

Let us know how it goes.

 

Thanks for the response. I will keep you posted.

 

I just did this 2 weekends ago on my 94. Depending on the region of the US you live in, the condition of the components in your system could be rather deteriorated. The point behind that statement is that all the bleeders on my truck looked SOOO bad (I live in Kansas City) that I only once originally tried touching them in the 4 years I've owned the truck. I finally did, and was successful. I first tried with a regular end wrench but stopped before rounding off one bleeder. A line wrench definately gave me more grab but still wanted to round it off. A standard six sided socket of the appropriate size finally worked. I had only gave them a shot of penetrating oil maybe a minute before I made my first attempt on each.

 

Thanks for the reply. I just bought a six point socket last night, but have not had a chance to try it. Hopefully I will have the same luck as you did.

 

Use the correct socket from the get-go. Also, a small amount of heat will help. This is a perfect place to use a propane or MAPP gas torch to heat things up a bit. You can't get it glowing for obvious reasons, but guttenhot won't hurt a bit.

good luck -jim

 

I have a 1993 Ford ranger and I can not get the brake bleeder valve loose without stripping the bleeder valve and I have almost everything to get it loose but nothing is working

 

get your propane torch and water spray bottle out heat and cool it 3 or 4 times on final heat cycle put a socket on and it should brake loose or just buy a new wheel cylinder.

 

Use a 6 point socket to engage all sides of the bleed valve hex so you have the most & even contact . After applying some heat, you might try tightening it a tad, to help break it loose but not too much, then quickly reverse direction to see if its loose. If its still tight, reverse direction with some applied rust buster & tighten & loosen a little until its out. Don't let the rust buster run into the cylinder, let the old fluid keep washing it away from the threads & bleed aperture. Take your time & don't use excessive force. Let the heat & rust-buster do their thing while you nudge things along with some back & forth movement-heat & rust-buster around the threads. More thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.