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I've used Fram filters in every car I've owned, starting with a 1962 Pontiac Catalina w/a 389, and I've NEVER had any sort of oil related failure.
Even when racing w/ my B-I-L and a 1970 Nova SS w/ a 396 cu in. / 375 h.p.
Not one.
So. . . my question is. . . what sort of real data is there to prove that Fram is junk? (Or, is everyone that bashes Fram just getting the information from 'the internets'??)
It seems to be the "in" thing to do, not only on this board, but many others as well. I have used Fram filters for years, as have my customers, and have yet to have a problem.
The last time I checked, Fram outsold all other mfgr's 2 to 1, with Purolator being 2nd. With this kind of volume, if there were massive problems with this product, it would be well known, and the sales would not be there, marketing aside. With a volume this great, there are going to be failures along the way as with any other product, they are not perfect. No one as yet can come up with proven problems with the product, just conjecture and inuendo.
The "Mize study" is not a study, in my opinion. The man performing the "study" is an electrical engineer cutting open filters in his garage. Pure opinion, not based in fact. I do not believe anyone can look at a filter and determine it's ability to perform. If the anti drains are defective, where are the failures? If the paper endcaps are defective, where is the proof? If the media is not doing it's job, where is the data? jd
The guy gives all of his info, and doesn't pretend to be an expert. He pretty much invites debate.
But, what is the question. I've never had a major failure traced to a FRAM filter, but what does that mean? Probably any oil filter is OK for FTErs , who pretty much all change at 3000, and are generally pretty tuned in to their vehicles.
And maybe some of the filter differences really only cause problems in people who change so infrequently that nobody can prove what causes their problems.
But, oil and filter changes are still pretty low cost maintenance. And, for nearly the same price, I can use a Purolator filter, which seems to have some benefits. It makes me feel better.
Fram does have cardboard end caps, nobody debates that. If it was an advantage, they'd be talking it up in all of their commercials. I feel better with metal construction. Maybe the cardboard is fine, but I don't know that.
I know that metal is stronger than cardboard.
As for the media effectiveness, I am going by the "data" given on the website. But, the inspections seemed to have been done with some reasonable care.
So, while I'm not bashing Fram, I don't find a lot of evidence to rave about them. As for their sales, it's hard to connect that to performance. It would seem that all filters work well enough, so that it's difficcult to rate them on any performance data. If one engine goes 175K, and another goes 225K, it's pretty hard to account for the difference. I'm guessing that being #1 is due a lot more to good marketing than anything else.
I have a neighbor that has used Fram and dino Penzoil for years without a problem. However I think the tests show that there are other filter out there than can filter better and not have lifter clatter like a Fram can on startup. My only point would be is why use a Fram if you can get a better one for as cheap a price?
People can Fram bash all they want, but Baldwins are by far the WORST filters on the market. At the plant my Dad works at, he says he has personally seen two loaders ruined, because the Baldwin oil filters came apart, and puked its guts into the motor.
I've personally had a Fram filter puke out on me. They used to be the only thing I used, simply because they're the only thing the store closest to me had. About a week after changing my oil, I completely lost oil pressure. Get it towed to the garage & find out that the filter basically imploded and clogged itself solid. Like some of you guys have said, with that kind of volume you can't expect everything to be 100% all the time. If I had picked up the filter sitting next to that one it may not have happened, but I just take it as a sign for me to not use those ones anymore.
There's a guy here at work who used to work at an oil filter manufacturing plant in Salt Lake. This place was making the same filter for several retailers, just changed the paint on the outside. Although this was 20 years ago, I'll bet it's still going on now - the generic oil filter.
I've personally had a Fram filter puke out on me. They used to be the only thing I used, simply because they're the only thing the store closest to me had. About a week after changing my oil, I completely lost oil pressure. Get it towed to the garage & find out that the filter basically imploded and clogged itself solid. Like some of you guys have said, with that kind of volume you can't expect everything to be 100% all the time. If I had picked up the filter sitting next to that one it may not have happened, but I just take it as a sign for me to not use those ones anymore.
I don't understand how a filter can "implode." The system is under pressure not vacuum. It may have came apart internally, but I don't think it was an implosion.
Using the logic of not using a Fram filter anymore, I put a set of Motorcraft plugs in my F150. A couple weeks later it developed a miss. Investigation found one of the plugs was bad. So, I guess I should use some other brand of plug because that one went bad. I realize it is not a critical part like an oil filter, but the logic is the same.
Also, 3000 mile oil changes are a waste of money and resources unless the vehicle is used in extreme conditions. Most vehicle warranties tell you this. Todays products are perfectly capable of going much further between changes. jd
Last edited by jimdandy; Oct 30, 2007 at 08:30 PM.
There's a guy here at work who used to work at an oil filter manufacturing plant in Salt Lake. This place was making the same filter for several retailers, just changed the paint on the outside. Although this was 20 years ago, I'll bet it's still going on now - the generic oil filter.
Absolutely! There are very few manufacturers. Honeywell (Fram and many house brands), Champion Labs (AC Delco, US-made Bosch, Mobil-1, STP, and many house brands), Arvin-Meritor (Purolator, Motorcraft, Mopar, US-made Toyota and many house brands). Baldwin and Wix, I dont know, but the import car NAPA "Silver" (supposedly WIX) are the same as Purolator.
Also, 3000 mile oil changes are a waste of money and resources unless the vehicle is used in extreme conditions. Most vehicle warranties tell you this. Todays products are perfectly capable of going much further between changes. jd
I could go longer between oil changes, but, the Scion xB that I drive to/from work runs pretty darned high rpms.
It loves to run around 4,000 rpm and actually doesn't shift from 1-2 or 2-3 (automatic) until 6500 rpm when your foot is in it!
This little car (ahem. . . toaster) loves high rpms.
I change it's oil every 3,000 miles.
I've thought about going to synthetic (and longer periods between changes) but, I'm a dinosaur, just like the oil.
I realize that the (synthetic) oil lasts up to 4 times longer and that the increased cost factor vs. change interval(s) works out pretty close. . . HOWEVER. . . .
I just can't bring myself to switching.
Back on track. . .
I could change filters, but, Fram has never let me down.
Vicious circle.
Somebody put me in a round room and tell me to sit in the corner.
Count me in on the Fram bashing and my info is based on actual experience, not anything I found on the internet.
My '01 Focus used to rattle like crazy after cold starts. I didn't make a connection until I ran out of Fram filters (bought them in bulk at the warehouse place) and had to buy a different brand at the local parts house. No rattles at all after that. Next oil change was a Fram and the rattle was back. I have never used a Fram since then.
And another thing, just because one manufacturer makes an item for more than one company, doesn't mean that they use the same specifications and/or quality control standards. I worked quality control in a plant that made plastic for contact lenses and we had different QC standards depending on if we were selling them as the name brand or if they were the generic brand. I'm sure oil filter makers work the same way.
I don't understand how a filter can "implode." The system is under pressure not vacuum. It may have came apart internally, but I don't think it was an implosion.
No idea if it did or didn't, but it's certainly feasible that it could implode. The oil is not pumped into the center of the filter, it's the other way 'round. So the outside of the element that is what is under highest pressure, the pressure in the center is somewhat lower. Thus if the filter element fails, it can actually implode - although "collapse" might be a better word.