Hello,

I am new here and the proud owner of a 1987 f250 diesel with a 7.3.

I have a few questions;
the motor is a 7.3 aned everything I have found suggests it should be a 6.9 for a 87. The door tag says assembled in 86 so its sure is a 87. The reason I think its a 7.3 is because of the sticker on the valve cover. It is possible the valve covers where changed. 1)Is there another way to tell the difference about the two engines?

Also my radiator seems to be leaking from around the middle. The cheapest one I could find was $274 online at discountradiators.com

2)Is it worth trying to find a used one at a wrecker or should I spend the cash?

3) My fuel guage is not working properly it seems to say full when full but bounce around a lot and read emplty at like half a tank. Anyone have similiar issues with that?

4) What are people running for fluids? engine, coolant, manual transmission (4spd) and differentials?

5)HOw do you adjust the clutch?

any help is much appreciated. thank you

 

Are both covers the same color? In my experience, they interchange fine. Does it have a turbo?
The gauges on these trucks (including the fuel gauge) are notoriously bad. Sounds like you may have a bad sending unit (unless all gauges read low). How many miles does it stay above the "F"?
The gasser radiators are small. Make sure that whatever you put in can handle the extra heat. Can you find a shop that repairs radiators? It could hopefully turn out to be a simple fix.

 

My truck is also a 87 F-250. Mine has the 6.9L engine and a ZF five speed trans. Make sure you use the right radiator. I've had mine redone and still have a little bit of a overheating problem. The clutch is hydraulic and I belive not adjustable.

 

Congratulations on your first diesel truck. The guys on here are great and will help you with anything you need.

Adam

 

if it's like every other sending unit on diesels, there's a plastic pickup tube on the bottom that will disentegrate over time and will strand you with a quarter tank of fuel still in the tank. best option is to take a piece of diesel friendly tubing and cut a notch in the bottom and slip it over the end of (what's left of it) pickup tube. the notch is to keep it from suctioning to the bottom of the tank. as for the needle bouncing, the sending unit on my '90 is a hinged type float, so it tends to have some movement in it anyway. i know that's a complete solution, but at least may give you some insight to what's possibly going on. if you decide to replace the sending unit, they're not cheap, but i've seen some posts on here that told where reasonably priced units can be bought, unlike the $240 i paid for my front tank sending unit. glad you decided to join the "dark" side, exhaust, that is. LOL

speedrdr

 

ya my fuel gauge does that, and when its at a quarter tank that means its empty

 

fox-rod,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.

Are you in a location that uses salt in the winter?

If you are, the salt is rather hard on the radiators.
A radiator shop can better advise the condition the radiator you have now is in.
If the salt has eat away at the fins and tubes it may not be worth fixing.

Salvage yard units may be in the same condition, but could save you some cash if they have a decent one.
Diesel radiators are huge when compared to a gasser radiator.

 

are you sure it's empty or just at the limit of what the pickup tube reaches?????
when i replaced my front sending unit there was about three or so inches of space from where the plastic sleeve thingy used to be to the bottom of the tank and there were various pieces of what used to be on the pickup tube rattling around in the tank. if you do decide to replace the sending unit, it aint the easiest thing in the world to do....couldn't get to the bed bolts to jack the bed off my truck so dropped the tank off. took longer than i wanted to be under the truck on the ground working, but after all was over with, was happy with the gauge working right and getting ALL the fuel capacity of the tank. have to do same with rear tank in next week or two. at least it's easier to get to. LOL as far as the fluids, the main thing i'd suggest is to make sure you've got the additive in your radiator. don't know if the 6.9 has the problem with cavitation that the 7.3 does, but i'm using napacool(napakool?) in mine to address that problem. it regulates the nitrates and i think pH and helps it cool better. maybe that's at least one answer to your fluid question.

speedrdr

 

haha ya it runs out of fuel, cause i get about 200miles out of it and it starts making that chug-chug sound and shakes violently, lol but ya i dont know what the quarter tank thing is about, oh and thats on the back tank, the front tank is fine.

 

thanks to everyone for the tips/advice.
An update on the truck:
I have replaced the alternator and radiator and changed the transmission fluid and engine oil. Tonight I have to do the heater core, luckily its not that bad like a mustang. Napa had them on for 28 bucks much better then 78 at ford or 50 at schucks. THe only thing now bugging me with my truck is the gearbox. the 4spd manual seems hard to get into first gear from a stop. If you are rolling a little its easy. Since its a hydraulic clutch I guess its self adjusting.

Anyone have any ideas or know what this could be? Im almost there this week I will be driving it as my DD to see if sh will tow a boat this summer.

 

First gear is non syncro. Meaning if you don't have a match on rpm's to speed, it won't engage. It's only used to start out with a load or on a hill. When empty and on flat terrain, you use 2nd.

 

awesome thanks, didnt know that.
one last thing! my footbrake works however it wont lock in position. I havent had a chance to look at this but im thinking this is an expensive part.
Any idea if this is repairable or needs replacing? That way I know if I should call the breaker yard

 

looks like the foot brake is riveted to the firewall?!?!?! anyone fixed one of these before?


I bought this rig to tow a boat! need the foot brake......

 

is the part inside the cab frozen up or is the the mechanism at the rear of the truck where the cable splits and goes to each rear wheel? somewhre i read that if the tensioner rig at the rear is adjusted all the way out you'll have to replace it as there's a part of it that stretches and won't allow any more adjustment. not sure what to say about the foot pedal itself. will have to look at my truck in morning to see. it's not at house at present.
speedrdr

 

Prior to thinking about adjusting it, check the firewall by the booster for flexing when the pedal is pushed and cracks in the firewall........fixable.

The other thing is the pedal arm and bracket bushings do wear. You would be surprized what 1/8 of an inch accumulated wear in a bushing or two will do to the travel requirements to disengage the clutch. The TOB throw out bearing may also be worn........

Foot brake parts in the cab usually can be repaired or replaced...