so what do i need to do to waterproof my inline 6 so i can do a little waterproofing. i already have the K/N filterpack which raises the filter about 6 inches, so i'm not to worried about sucking down water. its just that about every time i go through water deeper than my bumper i start to get misfiring. oh by the way its a 1995 with EFI

 

The bumper is about the level the distributor is at, so I would start there. The easiest thing to do is pack all the plug wires and harness connections with dielectric grease before plugging them in. You could relocate the coil to a higher location with no problems, but the distributor is pretty much a permanent resident. At least your module is up on the fender a little higher. I have known guys to take there distributor out with the plug wires still attached and dip it in that rubberized tool handle coating stuff, or a similar substance. That will definitely keep the water out, but it could also cause misfires by not properly venting the distributor. A simple solution to that would be to break off the vent cap and install a long plastic tube that extended to a remote location, then dip the distributor and leave the tube open. You could even add a baffle or something to the end. That should get you in good shape for about another foot of water, but the ECM will be under water. I don't know how it will react. You should be able to relocate or waterproof it fairly easily. You could just did the whole works in the same stuff as the distributor.

 

The engine isn't the only thing to worry about when fording:

The hubs can leak in 4 places: the selector **** O-ring, the hub-to-lock body O-ring, the inner wheel seal, and the stub axle seal. The differential vent tubes only run up to the frame, and when a diff (or hub or transfer case or tranny) half full of hot air is dipped in cold water, the air shrinks and sucks in whatever is at the end of the tube. The air pump has 2 breather holes on the back, and if it's full of water, it will not spin at engine speed (causing the belt to slip) and will pump water into the catalytic converter (shattering the ceramic substrate). The alternator and starter brushes are soft carbon, and water (especially full of sandy mud) will soften them and cause them to wear out almost instantly. The fan (though attached to a clutch that will let it freewheel when cooled by water) is not strong enough for the impact of hitting water and may bend (out of balance) forward (into the radiator) - it will also throw cold water onto a hot engine and may warp the block and heads or crack the exhaust manifolds.

These are some of the considerations that have been addressed in the design of tactical military vehicles like the HMMWV, and that's part of the reason for their cost. As a general rule, remember that the only parts of your truck designed to come into contact with anything other than air and rain are the bumpers and the tires... and the bumpers aren't designed for much more than that.

Pull the hubs and spindles and replace the 2 inner seals. Then repack the hubs FULL of grease so there is very little air to shrink. You'll never get them full, and they will always suck in some water. I extended my diff and t-case vent tubes, but my NP435 vents where the shift lever pivots in the top of the cover, so it's vulnerable. I know the AOD-4WD has a metal vent tube that would have to be cut just behind the top of the block to be extended, and the 2WD has a vent cap that's a pain to remove before an extension tube could be installed, but I don't know about other trannies. Shoot some white aerosol grease into the vent holes in the back of the air pump and plug them (one is recessed). You'll still have to worry about the filter mounted on the right wheelwell. The alternator and starter can't be helped. Change to an electric fan and put a cut-off switch inside so you can turn it off before fording. You will always have to worry about warping the block and heads or cracking the exhaust manifolds. Go to junkyards and look at fresh-air tubes from other engines to see if you can find one that opens on top of the core support instead of passing through - then seal it to the air filter box, plug the drain holes in the bottom of the box, and block any unused holes in the core support. Find an '86-94 Crown Vic and get the rubber distributor cover. These will let you splash and make VERY short fords, but don't try to drive 100 yards across a river; your cab will fill with water and so will the computer.

 

i don't have a carb its EFI, sounds like i have some work to do. now you say the breathers go all the way up to the body of the truck? instead of replacing them completely is there a way that i can just attach more hosing from that point and just run them up behind the cab?

 

Stock breather tubes rarely go more than 6" above the top of what they're venting up to the frame, and some things just have a vent cap with NO tube. It's up to you to decide how high you want to extend them and where to terminate the tube, but many people bring everything to the top of the firewall in the engine compartment.

 

I once hydrolocked my engine and i can say nothing scares you more than that your power steering goes out and it looks like your trucks dead 1994 F-150 XL I-6 31x10.5 inch Pro Comp MTs

 

ya i almost hydro locked the other week, but lucky i shut down, it scared me cause i nailed reverse gave it gas, and i kept sliding deeper into the water.... i was lucky i shut down just in time.