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I got mine installed on Sunday - direct plug in behind the kick panel on the passenger side (I have an '05). I bought the kit off of ebay and the wires snap into all the factory holes in the roof support (also included a template for drilling the three holes - I suggest you have someone there to help line them up straight front to back - don't do it alone). I also suggest you use the 5.5" distance from the window rubber edge as if you only go 3.5" back as the instructions from the ebay kit you will end up drilling into the roof support at the front and have a blind hole with no way to put the nuts on the supports or plug in the wires. I used motoman's instructions and measurements exactly as he used in his install guide. Took some time, but worth it to get it done right. I also have the Recon smoked light covers. Here's some pics.
Dealer price Tallahassee Fl 1-30-08 $157.47 PLUS TAX
they must be crazy. They dont have them in stock, I see no reason not to buy them off the internet, from one of the sponcers of this site. Whos got the best price?
There are two different size holes listed here. Do I need a 1/2 inch knock out or 7/8. got lights today want to install tommorow am ( actualy not necasarily am but BB,,,, before budwiser,) so I get the holes right.
The holes that bolt the light down are one size, and the bigger whole in the center for the plug is a different size, not sure of the exact sizes though
Oooh, oooh, I know! I got my lights last night and plan to install this weekend.
The center hole should be 7/8. Not saying it has to be, but that's common and we know it will work. It also happens to be the size of a 1/2" conduit knockout which is the best way to make the hole.
The small screw holes can be 7/32" or 1/4". I'm going 1/4" for a little slop to twist the lamp base for better alignment. If you don't get them aligned just right the won't quite sit tight against your roof. A little slop in the screw holes will let you twist them a little.
Thank you very much. I bought a unibit. I looked at knockouts, but cant think of other uses. unibit has other uses. I plan on putting mine on tommorow. got them from millennium ford, Seattle Wa. $72.05 total VS Local dealer at $ 169.28
Yes, lots of guys like the uni-bits. The only downside is the big pile of chips that will result, compared to a single slug from the knockout. You can probably rent a knockout for just a few bucks. But either way will work I'm sure.
Well, good luck to both of us. I'm doing the overhead console at the same time. The console was what I really wanted, but figured since I had the headliner down for that I might as well do the lights.
anybody know which wire to clip so the overhead cluster does'nt dim with the dash lights ?
You mean the overhead console? If so, I ran the wires down the passenger side A-pillar to the kick panel on the passenger side. The same plug where the clearance lights plug into has the wire you need. It's blue and some stripe that I don't remember. There were two blue wires, and you want the larger gauge of the two. The other smaller one is hot all the time. The larger one you want is switched with the ignition.
it took me about 10 minutes total, pretty simple
Edit: Sorry, I answered regarding my own question about which wire to cut, should have gone back and reread the whole thread
What is the weatherproofing like on those lights? Is it a rubber gasket between the light and the cab? This is my single biggest fear... water dripping into the cab!
Make sure you guys use some masking tape before you drill the holes in your paint job! It'll keep it cleaner, hence less rust!
What is the weatherproofing like on those lights? Is it a rubber gasket between the light and the cab?
Yes, it's a foam rubber gasket with generous thickness. The foam compresses as you tighten the nuts. I think most guys put a little silicone around the holes for extra assurance. It's been asked before, and seems like no one had any leaking problems.
Bill