look buddy, bottom line, in answer to your question, leave the S%&# alone, or fix it, if your want to scrap it due 2 "performance limitaions" (though the emissions stuff really isn't taking much, though i will not be iggnorant enough to say that its not taking any) you may as well scrap the entire fuel injection system on your truck, because the speed density injection system that all pre 96 ford trucks are equipped with BLOWS when it comes to modifying them. they do not take well to many if any modifications. if you want to keep with factory systems, you can always upgrade to a MASS AIR setup, (really easy for a 5.0, just get the conversion kit from ford or any mustang catalog) OR build a megasquirt stand alone set-up, OR buy the Holley MPFI kit (not cheap) OR if injection scares you that much, you can convert it to a carburator (but cost wise, don't know how ahead you will be, since you will have to use different heads, at least if you want any low end torque, since variable RPM carburated engines need certain places in the intake port to be restrictive to raise the velocity of the incoming air charge, again, they at least need these to make any low end torque, a screamer is a different story, SECOND you will have to swap out cams, cause the cam for the injected motor AGAIN won't make any torque down low, (which if you really want, you shouldn't even really bother with a 302, as this is not there strong point.... given the 3 inch stroke) THIRD a 4 bbl intake off any old 302/289... FOURTH a carburator.... FIFTH a distributor off a NON FEEDBACK 302 (no ignition module on the distributor) personally on the distributor, intake, and carb, i wouldn't bother with factory stuff, would just go aftermarket right away. you will also need a stand alone ignition control.
THEN you can sort through your wiring and hook up your gages and go from there.



or you can just fix whats wrong on it.

ALSO if your looking to make gobs of extra power, i would make DARN sure to upgrade to a tranny that can actually handle power and torque, not one ford contracted from its then newly accuired asset (mazda) that was designed and intended for use behind a 2.2 liter 4 cyl (and a puny V6) in a compact pick-up, not a fullsize 4500ish lb unloaded weight pick up with a 300 ci six or a 5.0 liter V8 in front of it, let alone one that would be "thoroughly stress tested"

not to mention the lubrication system in that trans is the most primative piece of garbage i have EVER laid my eyes on......

not trying to be an ***, just trying to help ya before you go and screw your truck up worse than it is (which you will if you listen to half the crap on this post), and then spend even more fixing what got messed up.

 

personally id rather have speed density than maf. only difference is maf can compensate for modifications easier, other than that all you have to do is get a programable computer and speed density would be better since you can make more power and not be limited on how big of a maf you can get and what not

 

That Ford Racing MAS conversion kit does not seem to be available anymore...I got one of the last ones available.

Another good, simple option you did not list is to reprogram the speed density to fit the given mods.

I don't see how EGR removal or any other emissions gear removal would cause problems for the speed density system.

 

ya its sweet, we have had that for a while now. Its nice to be alble to scan European cars now.

 

so where does one get a programmable computer for this? this is news to me...

 

Here is a start.

http://www.wolfems.com/

http://www.sdsefi.com/

http://www.megasquirt.info/

 

oh yeah i suppose, build a megasquirt system using all the original speed density stuff.......still would swap the 302 for something with a larger stroke, but thats not what this forums about, so if you choose to stick with the 302, i say give er *****! lol

 

i just got a donot engine for my 90 ford f150, i pulled al lthe air pump hoseing off and the pipe that crosses over from the back of both heads. Do i have t oplug that hole in the back of the heads? The one thats not threaded? Also i planned to leave the egr system in place all that consists of that is the air bypass solenoids? vac lines and the egr valve? Is that it?

-Randy

 

I'm not sure that's a great idea to take that stuff off. I am told that the computer will have issues if you take this stuff off, and you may have some drivability issues when your done. I think Andy M is pretty much on the money with what he said earlier. I don't want to sound like some greenpeace treehugger, but there's a respect issue involved with taking this stuff off too. We all breathe the same air. I feel bad enough because the bozo that had my truck before me cut the cat out and I'm still driving it like that.

My apologies to the group in general .... I didn't realize I'd gone back as far as I did in the posts. Sorry for resurrecting basically a dead thread here.

 

I prefer to make the emissions perform as designed -or better- as well. Why people disconnect the EGR or plug it up, or the AIR pump or the charcoal canisters... The answer is misinformation.

 

need to know if i can bypass air pump on 94 f150 302 want to run headers shorties or regular am having issues about pipe running from 1st converter and if i can delete it or have to leave it i see alot of crap about yes and know on here but does anyone really know if i can get away with this or not???i know efi was built to function on electronic devices and sensors ,but i just want better performance and free flowing exhaust please help thank you truckerjoe

 

dont. it produces hp and does it cleanly