When you say plates are you referring to a LS clutch plate? I'm not sure if I have a LS diff in this thing.

 

I had a braking problem on my '96 F250 PSD. When you'd apply the brake all felt right in the world until just before it was suppose to stop, when suddenly the pedal would release and travel all the way to the floor. If you went ahead and romped on it the truck would stop, but made a funny jerking sound which you could feel as well as hear. If you'd give it a quick pump, the pedal tightened back up and the truck stopped fine. I replace the master cylinder to no avail. I bleed all the fluid out of the system and refilled it with new to no avail. I readjusted the back brake shoes to no avail....So I lived with it for close to 5 years. I trained my self to sub-consciously short pump the pedal when I felt it release, and I wouldn't allow anyone else to drive my truck. Just recently I decided to look into why my cruise control wouldn't stay engaged. Two inexpensive items I replaced first were the cruise control release switch, located on the end of the master cylinder, and the VSS, located on top of the rear differential. It didn't fix the cruise control, but low and behold the braking issue has gone away completely. I had a discussion with my mechanic pal who told me, based on my description of the braking problem, that the new VSS fixed my braking issue because it plays into the rear ABS brakes somehow. All I know is the problem has gone away and I'm glad for it.

 

I had the same problems but i finally figure it out i had broke spring hardware and had to adjust the rear about 4 times , so if the brake goes soft first thing i check are the rears are adjusting right or need adjusted

 

I've been fighting this problem for the last year. Two reman and one new m/c,new rotors,calipers,new rear drums,shoes and hardware. Removed the spring in the abs valve to bypass it, bled time after time,adjust rear brakes and decent pedal for a thousand miles or so but still soft and will slowly go down with pressure.


Last time I was in I asked them to bleed again and to make sure of the proper sequence. RR,LR,ABS Valve,RF,LF and adjust the rear shoes again. Lo and Behold great brakes but its starting to soften up just a little bit after a thousand miles or so which is probably the rears shoes adjustment since I don't have an emergency brake due to not being able to find a cable for the RR so the self adjusters aren't working.


I'm thinking that the tech didn't know that the abs valve needed to be bleed also because the service manager I have been dealing with didn't. At least I'm hoping that's what it was, keeping my fingers crossed.

 

Parking brake cables are available from Ford. This is a case where OEM are MUCH better quality.

You should be able to either adjust the rear brakes manually (pop off the little rubber plug), or try reversing at a decent clip and hitting the brakes hard. Either method should work, even without the parking brake cables.

 

This is a one ton dually e350 cab and chassis with a stand up utility body. The indy shop I've been using for twenty years has tried to source the cable from the local Ford parts several times and it's always the wrong one. When I get back home I guess I'll take the truck to the Ford dealership and see if the can figure out the cable.


Yeah I know they can be adjusted manually but they don't stay in adjustment for too long. I hate to try the back and hard stop method. I carry so much stuff in the back of the van, no telling what I might shake loose.

Thanks for taking the time to share your advice.

 

Yes limited slip. Look at your tag on the rear diff if it is still there. Mine reads 4L10

http://www.gearheaddiva.com/wp-conte...ordDiffTag.jpg

 

any idea about pedal going to the floor (only when engine running)? replaced master cylinder and wheel cylinders and bled brakes.