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DMAC-That's awesome!!! I went through the exact procedure Ford used and it sounds just like what you wrote out. I wish I had the mechanical abilities. I only have the understanding in my head. I definitely think agree that it takes some instruction following, some knowhow and some patience and probably a little luck but a wrong move can go really wrong. I didn't have the confidence in myself so I took it to a shop with an ego. I will be pursuing some $ returned from them-not Ford, they cleaned up the mess in about 8 hours. Thanks for the info.
Are the plugs and boots a ford only item or can you get theses at a parts store?
I bought Motorcraft plugs from a parts store (actually my dad picked them up in Ohio and mailed them to me because the price was so much better than from Ford). Ford sells them for $20.60 each. I paid closer to $8.00 each. The boots were a different story. I have read that the boot should be replaced because with age, they do not seal out the moisture as well and could lead to problems. I figured while I have everything apart, I may as well do it right. I tried to get them at the same place the plugs came from but they could not sell me the boots without the COP included. The COPs were fine so I just went to a Ford dealership and bought the boots.
Now, you bring up another point about the plugs. I have read quite a bit on the issue of using Bosch versus Autolite versus Motorcraft versus a few others. From all that I've read and learned AND from personal experience, I strongly recommend the Motorcraft plugs over all others. They are still double platinum and are made to Ford's specs for this particular application. DO NOT try to save a few bucks by using Autolites. Many others used them and they only lasted 40 miles (not a typo: 40 miles) before misfires and related issues.
I'm still in "negotiations" with Ford over my plug issue.
They continue to stand by thier policy of "case-by-case" basis when looking at claims. This is thier response to my reminding them they have a faulty design with thousands of cases of this problem.
That link to the consumer affairs website is for the 5.4 2 valve motor, 97-04 heritage models. Now its just the opposite on the 04-08 newer models, you can't get the plugs out. In the 2 valve motors they just wouldn't stay in
If I were a plug company such as autolite, etc., I think I'd have my engineers design a plug specifically for this truck that was a solid plug, no crimped areas. I mean isn't this the real problem, crappy plug design b/c if the plug was a solid piece, with a little penetrant the plug would come right out. It's apparent the plug needs to have more strength(torqueablility-if that's a word) b/n the shield and jamnut thingy. I can't believe Ford's still pushing these crimped weak-**** plugs. IF the plugs were stronger, the heads would be fine the way they are b/c the penetrant is getting to where it needs to be.
You wouldn't have part numbers? and are these pre gapped?
I'm at work right now but I will look those up for you when I get home. The plugs are pre-gapped and are actually not adjustable as the ground strap is connected on both sides of the shield.
As for the plug design, it has improved since these were used in their earliest applications. The ground shield on those used in the 2004 engines could get so loose you could spin it with your fingers. The crip was not holding well enough and I think this contributed to the breakage at removal. The newer ones appear to be better made but could still fail if they are too tight in the head due to carbon deposits. This is where the penetrant comes into play.
05fx4Screw.... I don't have the part number, but I know they are pre gapped.
I was told not to touch the gap, b/c they come pre gapped from the factory.
There are two types of plugs, one is the old version and the other is the redesign.
What parts stores would be good to look at for these plugs, socket, and anti seize?
OK. The Ford part number for the boots is 3L3Z-12A402BA. You need 8 of those since it's not a set of 8.
The Motorcraft plug number is SP-462 for a pack of 4. The actual plug number is PZT1F. The OEM plug was a PZT2F but I have read/heard that Ford recommends the 1F plugs as they are one heat range cooler and it resolved some pinging under load issues. I studied this carefully because I was going to do an exact replacement but the latest information pointed me to the PZT1F plugs.
05fx4Screw.... What parts stores would be good to look at for these plugs, socket, and anti seize?
The plugs will be available wherever Motorcraft parts are carried. I did not try Autozone or Advance but there are several on-line retailers that carry them. As I stated earlier, do not get talked into the Autolites or Bosch. Some will tell you the Autolites come from the same manufacturer but they are NOT made to Ford's specs. I bought the 9/16" plug socket at Sears.com. I liked the one with the u-joint built into the socket because it's tight getting back to numbers 4 and 8. This socket worked great although it's $25. Sears has one for 9 bucks without the articulating joint and it would probably work just fine if you already have a 3/8" u-joint extension. The high temp anti seize can be purchased at any decent auto parts store. Don't forget the penetrating oil (must be capable of dissolving carbon) and the dielectric tuneup grease.
Thanks again guys I'm getting close to 70,000 hard miles with lot's of towing and everything ford say that can wait untill 100,000 I have already done except for this. So now it's getting done.
Can anybody tell me if the 2007 are ok with the plug issue. I heard the 07 are ok. I heard They changed they plug numbers in the 07. Then I hear its any truck with the 3v engine. ???
The plugs will be available wherever Motorcraft parts are carried. I did not try Autozone or Advance but there are several on-line retailers that carry them. As I stated earlier, do not get talked into the Autolites or Bosch. Some will tell you the Autolites come from the same manufacturer but they are NOT made to Ford's specs. I bought the 9/16" plug socket at Sears.com. I liked the one with the u-joint built into the socket because it's tight getting back to numbers 4 and 8. This socket worked great although it's $25. Sears has one for 9 bucks without the articulating joint and it would probably work just fine if you already have a 3/8" u-joint extension. The high temp anti seize can be purchased at any decent auto parts store. Don't forget the penetrating oil (must be capable of dissolving carbon) and the dielectric tuneup grease.
DMAC
I couldn't get the NICKEL anti seize or socket from Napa or pep boys( I was in them and decided to look). They didn't have either one.
I'd like to avoid buying things on the internet, but IF need be, I'll get the plugs somewhere?
The dielectric grease should be easy to find, and I already have the Kroil.
Just need a place to get the anti seize, socket, and plugs.
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