Help! This is the second time I've installed intake manifold gaskets on my '72 F-100 360 V8, and the front and rear gaskets never seem to seat correctly and always leak lots of oil. How do I install the gaskets correctly so they don't leak when the engine is reassembled and running?
I'm using a hoist, a helper, plenty of rtv sealant. Could it be that I'm overtightening the manifold bolts? Or is the intake manifold warped?

Please help.

thanks, Josh

 

Did you check the clearence under the manifold (mainly at the ends but there are other places to check).

You may be bottoming out on something.
You may be squeezing the gasket to the point of destruction.
Is the locating pin there and are things lined up

 

I just did this on a 302 get a chilton manual and find out the correct amount of torque for the intake bolts then use a torque wrench to tighten them. My dad has been foolin with old ford trucks for years and years. He says all intakes leak a little and no matter how hard you try you can't stop it completely




72 Ranger XLT
360
C6
3.00 open diff

 

Josh, A couple of things, First I put a finger rubbed like wood glue of silicon on both sides of the gasket, some guys use all silicon on the ends. This may be a better solution because mine doesnt leak, but I can see stains from it weaping at the corners (alu intake). You do need to let it start to set up and harden before fitting the intake. Second, Did you torque the bolts and to what setting?
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John

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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

"plenty of rtv" may be the problem. I avoid the stuff as much as possible.Any traces of contamination will cause that stuff not to seal.I clean all surfaces as much as humanly possible,then clean some more. I use Permatex-"aircraft" sealer on the end gakets with a pinch of "yama-bond" Yamaha brand motorcycle engine case sealer in the corners. touque properly,let sit overnite. I've been using this meathod as long as I can remember without ANY leaks.

 

This works for me:
Contact cement on one side of the cork to stop it moving
RTV in sufficient not excess on the other and a little more in the corners. Make sure the cork/rubber isnt over compressed.

 

I did it like John and have had no problems with it leaking. It only has about 700 miles on it though but no leaks. Now if I could just get my valve covers to stop leaking. They are beat up a little so I think new ones is the only way to go.

 

Sean, I can help. You need to re flatten your covers. Get a piece of wood, hard wood if you can get it, and place it on the inside along the fit edge. With some finess, use your hammer to flatten the hole areas and make the long sides straight again. When you are done place it on a flat floor and make sure ti doesn't rock. So when you have them nice and straight and flat no dimples around the bolt holes, put a bead of silicon on the pan lip and place the gasket in, firmly pressing it in nice and straight with the holes lining up. Let it rest a bit and place a bead of silicon on the cleaned edge of the engine and set it on and run the bolts in with the fingers. Now start snugging them up with a 1/4' ratchet if you have one. I think about 15lbs of torque should be as tight as they need to be. Do not over tighten.
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John

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[link:www.ford-trucks.com/users/jowilker|My Club FTE Page] Member since 01 01

[link:www.ford-trucks.net/users/jowilker/NCFTE.html|NCFTO] North Carolina Ford Truck Owners Group

In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.