96 F350, crewcab, 4X4, 7.3
only mod is superchips

Hi,
I know this isn't much to work with, but here's what's happening. 95% of the time the truck runs great. But occasionally the engine with just crap out. I will completely loose power, drop to a low VERY rough idle, and eventually die completely. In most cases when you restart the engine, it will be completely fine. less often, when I restart I have to hold the excellerator to keep it sputtering and knocking until it eventually comes back to life. Or I will turn it off let it sit and start it up again... and eventually it will be fine again. Weirdest thing is when it's running well, 95% of the time, it really runs fine.

Other symptoms that may or may not be related.- just so you know.
1) it is and has been for some time now, leeking oil from where the HPOP meets the resevoir wall. I've bought the gasket, but just haven't gotten to it yet.
2) When initially starting after it has sat over night or longer, it starts right up, but then it chokes and dies. Start it again and it is fine. I'm assumed that this has something to do with the resevoir bleeding and draining when it sits - But I'm not sure.

Thanks much!
Please let me know what you think might be causing it to crap out. It did it again this afternoon while my son had it in the driveway and it was the first time I actually heard what it sounded like from outside - it was really bad! - A horrible KNOCKING sound. And like described above. he shut it down and restared it and it was fine.

Thanks,
Brian

 

Have you tried pulling the codes with your Superchip programmer? It sounds like the CPS.

 

Has it ever had cps before?

 

first check for codes, if there are none then next time it stalls do not turn the key off, pull for codes again without turning the key off, there may be air in the system in the am but not to do what you just stated, if it stalled from air it wouldnt want to restart righ tback up. check your icp connection and inspect your ipr to make sure the wiring is ok and the nut hasnt backed off of it, past that might want to pull the vc's to check the under valve cover harness's

 

Thanks all for the quick replies!

The only Code from the superchip reader is P1111 (which I think means system passed, right?)

I forgot to mention, if it matters, we recently did work on a leaky turbo pedistal and in the process did a EBPV delete.
I have never had CPS issues before. how do I check? and where it is.

HunterJoe I'll take your advice and try to read code next time it happens before turning off the key.

I could use some help (diagram) identifying where the CPS, ICP and IRP are located and how to check. With doing the recent turbo work and laying across that engine pushing, pulling (and cussing), it is intirely possible that wires and connections got pulled, loosened or sensors damaged.

Thanks a bunch
Brian

 

cam sensor is on the right side of the engine in the front cover just sbove the crank pulley. 3 wire connector, easy to replace.
icp is in the left cylinder head rigth on top of the head just behind the ac.- 3 wire circle connector
ipr is in the high pressure oil pump sticking out the back towards the turbo. its all the down the bottom, you can see it but its fun to get to- 2 wire flat connector with a wire connector holder
just check for good connections at the icp and ipr,
it doesnt sound like a cam sensor issue but in your diagnosing and parts replaceing it wouldnt hurt to pick one up to throw in the glove box along with a 10mm socket. they are only 15 bucks from the dealer now and the most commonfailure on the truck.

 

Here is a link to a sensor location picture. http://good-times.webshots.com/photo...99659029nNmyTV

 

Check your IPR connection. It seems like it may be a loose connection there or a corroded terminal in the connector. Be careful with that little tin nut but get it good and snug. Then unplug the connector and look inside it with a flashlight. There should be a little rubber seal in there, too. If it's missing, water can get in there and cause corrosion and there can be a little movement which would cause a problem similar to what you're describing.

 

I checked out the IPR. It has a wire retainer 'flip back' clip on it, right? At least my 96 does. HOWEVER, I did not see anything like the "tin nut" that 'F350_Hauler' describes above. Mine was very loose. inside 3 connectors not visibly corroded. But the thing that concerns me most is the connector that it plugs into at,above the HPOP (I'm assuming it's actually the 'sensor' itself... is very loose and wobbely. The other thing I noticed is the red rubber seal on the wire side looked very old, worn and even somewhat melted. Should I be scared? What do I do next?

Thanks guys

 

Are you saying the nut is missing?....

 

I'm just not seeing anything that looks like a "tin nut". I found the connect as described, it has the wire flip up clip that holds it on the sensor, I poped that wire up and pulled the connector off for inspection. That's all there is to it. Where is the tin nut thing?

Brian

 

Look ...here.....&



Here.....

 

Thanks Rick

I'm not at the truck now but I think I know what I did wrong. If thats the IPR, then What is the electrical connector/sensor directly above th IPR. THAT is what I disconnected and what I was talking about. And whatever it is, is it supposed to be kind of loose where it goes into the HPOP housing? I'll take another look at the IPR when I have some daylight.

Thanks,
Brian

 

The connection is the IPR solonoid, the nut holds it tight.....