My son has a 2000 B3000 that has started to develop a problem whereby it will start fine first time and then may run for maybe a couple of miles then all of a sudden will die and will not restart. This has happened when the fuel tank gets low maybe between 1/4 and 1/8 of a tank. Putting in more gas doesn't help. It just cranks over but won't fire. He can hear the fuel pump run when the key is turned on. He's replaced the fuel filter when this happened the first time so I don't think that's it. After hearing the fuel pump run he checked the fuel schrader valve on I guess the fuel rail and very little if anything comes out. He checked the inertia switch and that's isn't popped. If he lets the vehicle sit for a couple of days it will normally start again and may run fine for maybe a couple of months, but eventually it will die again - probably when it gets low on gas.

Looking for places to start looking before taking it in

Thanks

 

Are there any trouble codes stored in the truck's memory? Was something done to the truck shortly before this problem started? There is a filter screen/sock on the fuel pick-up in the tank. It may be crudded up, reducing the amount of fuel that is pumped to the injectors. That would explain why the engine runs for a bit and then dies and why you get very little fuel coming out at schrader valve. After the truck sits a while, the sock "relaxes" enough to allow fuel to be picked up until the crud is drawn back over the sock. If that is the case, the only way to check it is to pull the fuel pump.

 

Does it have a fuel pressure regulator around the injectors? Seen a bad regulator not allow a car to start at all. Since it takes awhile to happen it would be nice to know if it is fuel at all, if it was mine I would put a fuel pressure gauge in the truck and when it died i would hook it up right then and there to see if the pressure was good. Hmm I just remembered a Chevy truck I worked on had a bad fuel pump for this, but didn't take so long to die on me.

 

You may be able to hear the pump run but it may not be moving any fuel. Consistently leaving that little gas in the tank can help kill a pump. The pump relies on the fuel in the tank to keep it cool. That little fuel in tank can't provide too much cooling.

 

Thanks. We'll take a look at the fuel pump - pricey little bugger though. I guess dropping the tank is the easiest way or removing the bed is the other option I guess.

 

Based on what others have said, removing the bed is easier than dropping the tank. Good luck.

 

Before replacing the fuel pump, perhaps first do an electrical system output load test, to make sure the battery & alternator are up to snuff, then do an under load voltage drop test to the pump, to make sure it's getting full B+ voltage to operate.

Then perform a pressure test & fuel delivery volume vs time check at the fuel rail schrader valve.

If the in tank pressure regulator is bad, or the pump is worn/weak, or B+ to it is low, it's volume output can be lacking. Fuel pressure should be 64 +/- 8 psi & fuel delivery should be something like a half pint/15 seconds at the fuel rail schrader vlave. Static fuel pressure can be ok, but volume output be low if the pump is worn, regulator is acting out, operating voltage is low, lines are crimped or clogged, or pump prefilter sock is clogged, or the filter is clogged.

A gas cap not venting the tank properly has been known to cause random stalling after a few miles of driving. As the pump removes fuel to operate the engine, it creates a vacuum in the tank, that the pump can't overcome if the gas cap doesn't properly vent the tank. So when it stalls again, pull over & immediately loosen the gas cap, cycle the ignition switch to prime the system & crank the engine. If it'll imediately start, suspect the gas cap.

If you do find the pump is bad, as has been posted, it is said by those that have done it, that removing the bed to access the fuel pump is a lot easier than dropping the tank.

Remove the tailgate to make the bed lighter. Disconnect the fuel filler hose, rear brake light wiring harness & the bed bolts, then move the bed back to rest the front on the rear tires, the rear of the bed on saw horses.

More thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.

 

I've done 3 pumps this way (not fords) and just yesterday we were slow at work so a guy I work with replaced his this way. 8 bed bolts, 4 screws for the filler neck and disconnect the taillight harness. get 4 guys lift bed up and back and set it on the wheels, all the room in the world to work...Chevys are this way.