Dies when warm, works when cold
A couple of weeks ago I started my truck up and it ran fine for about 10-15 minutes before it suddenly died. I checked the oil and it was pretty low so I immediately changed it. When I went to restart it, it again ran fine until it warmed up and would die. Some times it will die at idle and other times it will die if you try and touch the gas. It does not throw any codes and will not restart again until you let it cool down. It was working fine the last time I used it (it sat for about 2 weeks). I've never had this type of issue before and the truck has never shown signs of malfunctions. As mentioned earlier, this is a second post so here is what I have done so far:
Parts replaced:
Replaced the IPR
Replaced the CPS (Not OEM but didn't change symptoms)
Fuel filter
Fuel pump
Hutch/Harpoon Mod
AutoEnginuity tests ran:
KOEO:
- Test Completed Sucessfully
KOER:
- P1211 Injector Control Pressure Higher/Lower Than Desired
KOER Glow Plug:
- P1397 Variable Valve Timing Solenoid B Circuit Low Input
KOER Cylinder Contribution:
- Test Completed Sucessfully
Readings while cold:
IPR Duty Cycle - 14%
IPR Voltage - 1.2
ICP - 800 psi
Readings while warm at idle (it let me run the numbers before it died):
IPR Duty Cycle - 11.72%
IPR Voltage - .9
ICP - 500 psi
Readings at 2k RPMs (not sure if the motor was warmed up or not but it eventually sputtered and died)
IPR Duty Cycle - 20%
ICP - 1200 psi
Other tests ran:
Injector harness ohmed out good
HPOP gear bolt is tight
Took out fuel filter and visually saw the fuel bowl fill at a good rate
What else could there be?
Bad HPOP
Leaky injector O-ring
Bad ICP <!-- / message -->
Right now I am in the process of changing out the injector o rings. I've got the driver side done and will work on the passenger side this weekend. Started it up after changing the driver side and it still died.
In my signature under the ford doctor link there is a good hpop guide for our trucks. Hopefully others will have some more ideas.
It may be caused by a blockage in your fuel line from the tank, or a gunked up pickup foot screen (in the tank). You could remove the fuel line from the tank to the pump, and blow air back towards the tank to try and block any obstructions. Make sure your fuel cap is off when you do this, and if your tank is full...just a short burst, otherwise fuel will spill out.
Could be a dying fuel pump.
Have you checked your fuel bowl lately? That is, under the filter? Sometimes you can get A TON of sediment and crap in the bottom of the bowl, and it lets just enough fuel through to idle, but not enough for more than idle. A friend of mine once bought a F350 CC Dually for a song because of the exact problem you're talking about. He cleaned out the fuel bowl, ran like a champ.
That's all I got. Please post up what the solution is, once it's figured out!
Problem still not fixed. Took it to a shop where they have some VERY experienced Ford diesel mechs. Just got off the phone with them and they are pissed because this is the first 7.3 that they have never been able to figure out. This is what they have come up with though: they say that there is an issue between the PCM and the IDM. They put in a donor IDM and it didn't fix the problem. They say that they cannot read the specific between the two because they don't have the equipment. Here is my thought: How in the hell can something like this just happen right out of the blue? I'm skeptic about this being the issue. Also, if there was a communication error between the two, wouldn't it throw a code stating that there was a problem? This thing is getting out of hand.
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Got a chip in the truck? What are your ICP psi, IPR duty %, rpm, injector pulsewidth ms, battery voltage, vref, and EOT readings while cranking when it's hot and won't start?
While it's cold and running, can you grab and wiggle any wiring and make it stall? ICP, IPR, main engine harness, wires over the driver front shock, etc.
Can you watch EOT and see if it always stalls at the same temp? If so, what temp is it? Also, what temp does it have to cool down to before it will start again?
Were you sure to lube up the IPR o-rings very good before you installed this new IPR?
Got a chip in the truck? What are your ICP psi, IPR duty %, rpm, injector pulsewidth ms, battery voltage, vref, and EOT readings while cranking when it's hot and won't start?
While it's cold and running, can you grab and wiggle any wiring and make it stall? ICP, IPR, main engine harness, wires over the driver front shock, etc.
Can you watch EOT and see if it always stalls at the same temp? If so, what temp is it? Also, what temp does it have to cool down to before it will start again?
Were you sure to lube up the IPR o-rings very good before you installed this new IPR?
No chip but I do have Edge (not sure if that classifies as a "Chip")
Take it with a grain of salt, but the mechanic told me that every indication he got from the truck (ICP, IPR, voltages, everything) says that it should be running.
I think what we need to start thinking about is "What can happen to a truck that has been sitting for two weeks that may cause this type of problem?" I say this becase nothing was done to the truck when this issue surfaced so it's not like going back to the last thing you did. One thing that I haven't tried is cleaning the bottom of the fuel bowl.
Would it be possible that sediments are restricting fuel flow from the bowl to the injectors? And no, I do not have a fuel pressure gauge.
Have you checked the hot oil pressure (low-side - not HPOP)?
Your LPOP feeds your HPOP, and without sufficient oil, your HPOP won't function. It's an easy test to check the low oil pressure, which is what you'd call the regular oil pressure on a gas engine. I would just check it as part of ruling out any other issues. More than a few people on this forum have had to replace the LPOP - search for some of the stories.







