Hi all,
I have a 1975 Ford F100 with a 390, and I need some help identifying the heads on it so that I can order some new headers to replace the ones already on there. I heard it has "bigger" than normal heads on it. I purchased the truck and no one can give me any more detail than that. Here's what I know about the vehicle: it has headers, chrome valve cover gaskets, a 2 barrell carb, a tach, oil pressure gauge, water temp gauge, and a volt gauge i suppose. All the gauges are aftermarket. I am guessing that this engine is from somewhere else, hence all the aftermarket gauges. The heads have been spray painted, but the engine was not so maybe the heads are some kinda aftermarket thing.

So thats a little background, the headers that are on there now bolt up and down instead of side by side. By looking at some aftermarket headers for a 390 it looks like they have the same bolt pattern as that. SO can anyone tell me an easy way to identify these heads so that I can order some headers??? I will take a pic of the heads from the side so you can see the bolt pattern also. Here's the link:

http://paulbunyan.dyn.dhs.org/xx/heads.html

it should be up on Feb 14th

Thank you
paul@pbunyan.net

 

This is part of the previous msg.

I think this truck was about to be a race truck if that helps. The motor sounds like it has a cam in it...But i dont know for sure. Thanks

 

John, Look in the area just above the center sparkplugs and you will find the numbers there. Find them and post them here and we'll go from there.
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John

jowilker email me
[link:www.ford-trucks.com/users/jowilker|My Club FTE Page] Member since 01 01

[link:www.ford-trucks.net/users/jowilker/NCFTE.html|NCFTO] North Carolina Ford Truck Owners Group

In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

The vertical 8 bolt pattern (bolts at 6 and 12 o'clock) is the standard exhaust manifold pattern for FE heads. Some heads designed for small cars have different patterns. The only real concern you need to have about headers fitting is whether you have the high or low ports. Post the head numbers (John told you were to find them), and we may be able to tell you some things about your heads.

 

All,
Thanks for the tip. At least I know I have FE heads now. I am going to go where I have the truck parked at as soon as I get off work today (Thurs). I will get that casting number and post it here this evening, I will put a pic of the motor also.

One more question I have, what's the best way to identify the type of engine I have? I called a mechanic at a local speed shop, and he told me that Ford 390s have Valve Covers that cover part of the Intake Manifold as well as the heads. But if my memory serves me right, the Valve Covers on my truck looked like they only covered the heads. Which would mean that my engine is NOT a 390. I definately will be taking a close look at that also today. Any input you guys can give me about that will be greatly appreciated as well :-)

JP White
Bailey's Crossroads Va
1975 F100 ???
1980 F100 302

 

The valve covers do cover part of the intake. In fact, the pushrods run through the intake manifold.

The easiest way to spot an FE, though, is the configuration of the spark plugs. The front two on each side are angled toward the back, and the back two are angled toward the front, so the tops point toward each other. Sort of like this:

//\\
\\//

 

>John, Look in the area just above the center sparkplugs and
>you will find the numbers there. Find them and post them
>here and we'll go from there.
>North Carolina Ford Truck Owners Group
>
>In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies
>rusting away.

Thanks for the info. It was right there like you said. Here are the casting numbers:

Drivers Side: D2TEA
Pass Side: C8AEH
3 (poss), but i think its an 8

Thanks again all, I will be registering as a member later tonight this is awesome. Now, I just need to know what kind of heads they are so I can order the headers. I see Flow-Tech has some, I can get them for $105 off some web site. They are supposed to fit 68-76 F100, 6.8l. I think I called them and the guy told me they'd fit all the 360s 390s and 429s...Oh and another thing.

I found out some more info about the motor. It's a 360 that was taken either .030 or .090 over. Is there a hell of a difference between .030 and .090? I know the engine is strong as hell, I have never owned or even driven something with a modified engine before. I was thinking that if it was taken .090 over, it would have blown up by now. Unless the guy didn't drive it at all.

The heads are from a 390. It has a cam, pistons and all the other normal goodies in there as well. I think it was originally built back in 1996 and the guy just raced it on some weekends. Then it sat the majority of the time. I don't know what the engine came out of, but I will be making a different post for some help identifying the block. I saw one post somewhere on here where there was a picture of a disassembled block with an arrow pointing to the block stamping, I'll have to look again for it.

Well that's it, once again any help identifying these heads is MUCH appreciated, I am looking to buy some headers :-)

1975 F100
Engine: 360, .030 or .090 over
Heads: ????
Drivers Side Casting#: D2TEA
Pass Side Casting#: C8AEH
3(poss)
JP White
tech@pbunyan.net
1975 F100
1980 F100

 

D2TEA = only see D2TE AA = 72-76 std. 360, 390, 428 w/o air
C8AE H = 68 std. 360, 390, 428 w air
I don't expect you to hear this, but unless you are planning to run your engine over 4000 rpms, forget the headers.
One thing that I can testify to, it can turn a 15 min starter change out into 8 hrs. They are hot and loud in the cab as well as cook starters. Every guy ought to own one set though. I have a 390 down for rebuild right now and I will not be putting headers on the engine, nor a four barrel carb.
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John

jowilker email me
[link:www.ford-trucks.com/users/jowilker|My Club FTE Page] Member since 01 01

[link:www.ford-trucks.net/users/jowilker/NCFTE.html|NCFTO] North Carolina Ford Truck Owners Group

In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

Thanks!!! I am about to order those headers right now. Hopefully I can put them on tomorrow, there's a shop around here that said they had a pair of em in stock. I should be able to get them in about 24hrs for $120. Is that an alright deal? Thanks again

JP

 

The D2TE head on your motor is likely original. The C8AE-H head is a good head, but it's obviously a replacement. When your motor was rebuilt, it probably had hardened valve seats installed (at least if they did the job right), which makes it virtually identical to the D2TE head.

A 360 at .030 over displaces 366 cubic inches. At .090 over, it would have a bore of 4.14" and would displace 377 cubic inches.

I would bet against it being .090 over, though. I don't think any pre-74 FE block would go that far over without busting into the water jacket. While your block may be one of the later "reverse 105" blocks with thicker cylinder wall castings, even those are rarely taken beyond .080 over. Usually, an engine is bored .030 or .060 over when it's being rebuilt, and most off-the-shelf pistons are sized for .030 or .060 over bores. Boring an FE .080 over isn't unheard of, because that would take your stock 4.05" bore to 4.13", which just happens to be the stock bore size of the 428. Drop in a 428 rotating assembly (crank, rods and pistons) and voila! Your 360 has become an instant 428. Actually, you also need a new flexplate/flywheel, but that's another story.

If your 360 is .090 over, I'd be nervous. You have thin cylinder walls, and no room left for a future rebuild without sleeving the block (way too expensive). The only way to know for sure is to pull one of the heads and mike the bore.

 

 

>Thanks!!! I am about to order those headers right now.
>Hopefully I can put them on tomorrow, there's a shop around
>here that said they had a pair of em in stock. I should be
>able to get them in about 24hrs for $120. Is that an alright
>deal? Thanks again
>
>JP

It's an alright deal for junk. John speaks from experience about headers. They are usually a big pain in the rear, and I think that most guys who install them come to regret it. They're loud, hot, prone to exhaust leaks, fry starters, etc.

That said, if you're going to get a set of headers, at least get a quality pair. Flowtechs have a rotten reputation on this board. They aren't made well, and often don't fit right.

The consensus around here seems to be that Sanderson and Stan's headers are by far the best. Take your pick. I like the Stan's, myself, because of the tri-y design and the fact that I have personal experience with them (great product!). Then, consider having them treated with Jet-Hot or a similar coating. Untreated headers will discolor in a matter of hours, and rust out in a year or two.

You may end up spending $500 or so for a good quality set of coated headers, but it's money well spent for the countless hours of frustration it'll save you over the next 5-10 years.

 

>The consensus around here seems to be that Sanderson and
>Stan's headers are by far the best. Take your pick. I like
>the Stan's, myself, because of the tri-y design and the fact
>that I have personal experience with them (great product!).
>Then, consider having them treated with Jet-Hot or a similar
>coating. Untreated headers will discolor in a matter of
>hours, and rust out in a year or two.
>
>You may end up spending $500 or so for a good quality set of
>coated headers, but it's money well spent for the countless
>hours of frustration it'll save you over the next 5-10
>years.

Well I wish my budget was that high but it isnt. The guy with the Headers around here said they are Dynomax headers. Anyone have any experience with them???? I am not planning on putting too much money into the heaaders as I plan on putting this motor into something else anyways.

JP