When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Are there any FTE members online and living in the Kansas City,Kansas/Missouri area?If so I would like to chat for a few minutes.Also,Izzie,will let you know when I get settled as a cold brew sounds awfully good.Will in all likelyhood be travelling between Kansas and Dallas for several months because we have to sell our house here.
Thanks,
Billy
So I finally flushed my system today albeit without successfully removing the block plugs but did use compressed air to drain as much residual out as possible.While doing so I noticed a steady stream of water running down from the left side of the water pump near the cam shaft positioner.This is a brand new pump I installed and I am positive i reinstalled the nine bolts in the exact positions from where they were removed.Any ideas as to what my latest problem is will be appreciated.I hate to throw the towel in and call a tow truck to take it to a repair shop where I will spend the better part of $1000.00 for arepair that really did not seem too difficult to tackle.
Thanks,
Billy
Sounds like you need to pull the pump and replace the gaskets and try again. You can capture the new coolant if added and put it back in if done correctly but you know you have a leak and there is no sense in proceeding until it is fixed. My shop manual is now in the laptop in my work car so I cannot advise specifics but there is a definite procedure for installing the WP.
My shop manual is now in the laptop in my work car so I cannot advise specifics but there is a definite procedure for installing the WP.
I sent Billy some Word doc's detailing the clutch fan and water pump removal. I obtained these instructions from a buddy who is a Ford tech. He has access to a website database maintained by Ford motor company containing a ton of stuff, one of which is step-by-step instructions for removal and repair on any part of any Ford vehicle.
So he's covered there.
I'm thinking he has some kind of failure of his gasket, possibly from it not seating properly.
While there are differences between deionized water, distilled water, and purified water (basically the process of getting the end product), when used in the coolant system of a vehicle, all three are interchangeable.
Purified Water is described in the USP 23 monograph as follows:
"Purified Water is water obtained by distillation, ion-exchange treatment, reverse osmosis, or other suitable process. It is prepared from water complying with the regulations of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) with respect to drinking water. It contains no added substances."
Purified can also be water that is just filtered and hit with a UV light to kill bacteria. It is a drinking water and may contain minerals like calcium. Around here distilled water and purified water are sold adjacent to each other in the grocery stores. Distilled is water that has been heated to a vapor and condensed back to water removing all the minerals from it. Deionized & R.O water is also acceptable for coolant use. Filtering to purify only removes the organics and big chunks of dirt but not the minerals that are dissolved in the water.
I am about to remove the water pump again.The procedure I follwed to install the new one was as follows:
1.installed the new billet housing,temperature sensor,heater hose outlet and pulley
2.verified that new gasket was seated in groove.had one place where gasket curved and did not want to stay seated so I applied a small amount of plumbers jelly to hold it in place.started all bolts(9 total)making sure to put long,medium and short in correct positions.held pump flush on block until I had tightened all bolts equally and pump had no free play.finished by tightening in opposite cross pattern to try to keep equal/uniform surface contact on entire pump/housing surface interface.reconnected cam shaft positioner clip and harness,fan clutch assembly etc. and did my flush next day(25th).that is when i noticed leak.While a nuisance I will be happy if the only problem is the gasket not being seated as required.If not I am at a loss.One question.If I do find the problem to be the gasket and replace and reinstall,can I check for the same problem as well as for any other leaks before installing the fan clutch assembly as long as I do not start the truck?
Thanks for all the input and as I will not be checking email while working on the truck should anyone have advice to share feel free to call me at 913-205-0056 a free call between verizon wireless users.
If I do find the problem to be the gasket and replace and reinstall,can I check for the same problem as well as for any other leaks before installing the fan clutch assembly as long as I do not start the truck?
Thanks for all the input and as I will not be checking email while working on the truck should anyone have advice to share feel free to call me at 913-205-0056 a free call between verizon wireless users.
Billy, I started and flushed distilled water through my engine, twice, without the fan clutch assembly. I wanted to make sure I had zero leaks because my wife was about to embark on a trip up to the northern part of Washington to attend the Australian Cattle Dog Nationals, pulling our 31' TT. She was only going with my daughter, so I wasn't gonna be there if something went wrong.
All that fan is going to do is kick on for cooling, and since it was sitting in my driveway, it sure wasn't going to overheat. Indeed, I had trouble getting it warm enough to open the new thermo.
I completely flushed the system with the thermo removed, but for the final two flushes with distilled water, everything was bolted on except the fan. I even did the final flush with the coolant bypass filter bolted on.
I had zero leaks.
Check that gasket. One of the first things I did when I opened the box containing the water pump was to check the gaskets for cracks, bends, or any other damage.