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I have a 352 with a frozen motor....crank won't turn. I have it on a stand with four of the five main bearings out. Would like to work on the rod bearings. How do I turn the crank so I can get out all of the rod bearings?
Still don;t know where the frozen element is. The Mains look good unless it is the fifth main bearing in the rear. I am having trouble removing what rod bearings I can get...one came out pretty good but the other to that set is hard.
Jim, Heads off, look at the cylinder bores, are they rusted, scored, pistons broken? Remove all the main caps. Then remove the pistons and rods that you can reach. Remove all the lifters and the camshaft. Look in the engine for obvious causes. One or more of the pistons could be siezed in the bore, from rust or heat. Have patience, and don't beat on things you may damage salvageable parts.
William in Atlanta
William...from what I can see of the pistons they are great. This engine was rebuilt a while back but a freak accident took much of the oil out of it. It continued to drive for a few hundred miles before giving up the ghost.
The rocker arms look great, the four main bearings that I have taken off, one connected rod bearing that I took off looks good and from what I can see of the pistons, they are fine.
My plan is to take off what I can and hopefully something will unsieze but so far everything I take off looks great. I am thinking it might be an oil hole into one of the bearings from shaft. ?? Other then that I am stumped.
Want to do this myself...no way do I want to spend a thousand to have a mechanic look at it. jim
If the fifth main is the rear main, that is probably where it froze. It gets oil almost last. I'm assuming that you cannot budge the crankshaft at all. Or the 3rd, with the thrust bearings. Either way, take it off, and check. Do NOT get out a hammer or crow bar to 'just break it loose' as you may just break it.
My brother bought a Caddy that had 23k on it, and was 13 years old. Older couple had the oil light come on.. Mech said it was the sending unit. Not. Got so hot that the block warped before it froze up. Had to have the caps reground for flatness and then a line bore. They were a kind of bluish looking color, if you know what I mean. That car was perfect-blue 4-door hardtop with perfect paint and a white vinyl top. Had a chrome plated kleenex box on the tranny hump. Electric trunk pull-down. Just 'close' the trunk, and it would grab the trunklid out from under your hand and pull it down tight. Weirdest thing I ever saw..
Good luck.
tom
It makes sense that it would be the 5th bearing. The fronts are out and I think even the connecting rod bearings wouldn't be difficult to remove from those...if I can turn the crank. (frozen still).
if I can't tap the 5th bearing out...how? jim
I answered some of this on the other thread. But again, after driving with low oil, for sure all the bearings and rings are ruined. The cylinder bores may not be damaged. Measure the taper and look for scoring, scuffing in the cylinder bores. If the bores are good and the pistons are not damaged, hone the bore with a 400 grit stone for moly rings. Measure the crankshaft. I am sure it will need to be turned on the main journals. The rods should be reconditioned with ARP bolts and the wrist pins inspected for scuffing. Hone the bore to 400 stone and use moly rings. The rocker shafts should be checked for excessive wear. Take them apart for this inspection. Magnaflux check the heads for cracks and replace the valve seals. This engine was heated enough to sieze the main bearings. All of it's components must be carefully inspected and tested to insure hidden damage is discovered before you spend money and time on a rebuild. You want to do this yourself and that is great! We can help.
William in Atlanta
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