For 350 dollars you are going to get a good head unit but not with navigation. If it were me and I could see being able to save my money i would by the Pioneer AVIC D3. Not that it doesn't have it's short comings but it does offer the most bang for your buck at around 1 G. It also has room for expansion with the ipod cable, sat radio, blue tooth, steering controls, back up camera, tv tuner six disc dvd player & remote control.

 

Quick question here- With a 2 dims head unit such as the Kenwood i mentioned, can i buy a steering wheel off a 05-07 truck with the buttons in the wheel (my work truck has it and i love it) and get only the volume to work? I don't have climate control or any stuff like that on my personal truck.

 

there is away but I have never done it I just use the remote it works for me.

 

Hey Kris, if you feel up to a drive there is an Avic d2 sitting in the clearance shelf at Circuit City in Annapolis for $400 (I think). I almost bought it myself but decided that the truck payment was more important... According to the guy in the install shop, it was a demo model in the wall and comes with all the parts. There is also a back up camera to go with it for an extra $100. (perfect condition as well)

I would suggest a kicker 10" for your bass. It's what I have in my CC and it works very well, although it's a tight fit. It's not enough to draw attention to your system but when you're sitting in the truck it hits hard enough to make you turn it down so you can use the rearview mirrors.


I'm following your design plans because I'm always in the market for new ideas with my truck and if I can have someone test things out first... It's why I love this website.

 

I don't know about switching steering wheels but you can use the factory steering wheel controls to operate the aftermarket radio, there is a module that you can get that will let you use the factory steering wheel controls. I have it in my 06 and the track next, volume buttons, mode button on the steering wheel do work with the aftermarket radio.

 

Do you think two 10's will be TOO much? I found some custom boxes that fit behind the rear seat. I'm thinking that i'll want to run two amps anyway, and if i have the power to run two amps then might as well get the extra bass right? I was looking at twin 10" kickers. Still would like to know what amp to run the 4 channel speakers and what amp to run the subs. Thanks.

 

Kris, I really think you are getting ahead of yourself. I still say you should just pick up a new head unit and the box and subs I recommended earlier. That is most likely going to be more than enough for you. You can always go back later and add an amp and different door speakers if you aren't happy with the sound.

I am pretty picky about my audio, and I have been pretty happy with my Kenwood DDX-6019 pushing the stock Ford speakers in my truck so far (I do miss the bass, but haven't had the time to install my sub and amps yet).

Also, the stuff you hear about underpowering a speaker is pretty much bull. Underpowering a speaker does not cause damage. However sending a clipped signal can cause damage. Most good head units (like the Kenwood and Pioneer I recommended) will not clip the signal very bad until the extreme upper volume range. As long as you aren't running around playing your stereo at max volume you are not going to damage your speakers, and you don't need to use an external amp for them.

Also, the Image Dynamics IDQ10's that I suggested sound much better than any Kicker I have ever heard. Don't be afraid of them just because you might not have heard of them before. They are extremely good subs.

 

I do agree i "kind of" am getting ahead of myself, but knowing me i do alot of overkill sometimes. But im defanitely getting the head unit and the sub, ill go from there, reread your post and ponder it over.

 

Ummm...no, not really. In fact, not at all. Let's do an analogy. Say you've got a 5,000lb load to haul. Can you use a Ford Ranger? SURE CAN PUMPKIN!!! But how long is that Ranger going to last, and how much will it struggle? Now, take that same 5,000lb load and hook it to your PSD. You'll hardly know it's there, and you'll have much better CONTROL over the load.

That "excess" power means the amp will work at maybe 70% capacity, which means it will run cooler, be more efficient, and put out less distortion to the speakers. And for those not aware of this fact, it's distortion that burns up/blows speakers most often, not too much power. The lower distortion means the speaker cone moves in a more fluid, smooth motion. Distortion disrupts that smooth movement, causing extra heat, and that will burn out the voice coil inside the speaker. After that, you've got an interesting paperweight basically.

Another tidbit of info: most decent amps will have a THD rating of about 0.05% THD at their rated power. The amp built in to a head unit can be anywhere from 1% - 5% THD, and put out maybe a true 9watts, not the 40+ claimed.

I wasn't in the game for that long, but I researched and learned alot. Like this: Women's hearing is generally about 10% more sensitive than a man's, on average. But did you know that in the first weeks after giving birth to their first child that a women's sensitivity to high frequencies increases markedly?

I don't know it all, or the most, but I know what I know because if I didn't, I couldn't put food on the table. Capital - you were in the game for much longer - care to punch any holes in what I've said, or would you agree?

 

Two 10's definitely wont be too much. I have 12's in mine and some serious high end power driving them. They sound good but because of the space problem (lack of) the subs can not live up to their full potential. I had a custom box built and anchored behind my rear seat. I did not want the box under myseat (remove the cargo deck) and I wanted it behind the seat so in an accident it would have much less chance of breaking loose and injuring or killing anyone. Woofers have injured / killed people in accidents that people would have otherwise walked away from. I'm not real into booming base. I like my base tight and punchy.

 

I stand by what I said. It is not the lack of power being sent that causes the speaker failure it is the clipping or distortion in the signal. Unless he is running the head unit at near full volumes it will be sending a clean signal that will not damage the speaker. I have ran aftermarket speakers off of head units with lower wattage ratings for years and never had any issue. I do not run them at full volume because I can hear the distortion and it sounds horrible to me, and I know that it can cause damage.

 

I agree with papadelogan. I was in the game for several years and have enough trophies to prove it. They do not put a recommended wattage on speakers just for another line on the spec sheet. Clean power is the only power you want. That's why I still run class AB amps for all speakers in my truck. I also dont agree that ID speakers are much better than Kicker. I remember seeing several cars that won World Championship titles that were running Kicker equipment. I have never seen a speaker take the abuse as some of the L7's have and keep on ticking. Every speaker has a different sound it's all preference. They all get the job done but in little different ways. If you were to build a box with the right frequency and airspace, you wont tell a difference. Good luck on your decisions and make sure you are happy with the decision, trust your own ears and don't let people's opinion sway you.

 

Here is a great read on what can damage a speaker. It specifically talks about the common underpowering myth. I highly suggest you guys read through this thread.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1205798

Like he so simply puts it in the first post I believe. If underpowering really was a problem then everyones speakers would constantly get damaged because who really goes around with thier stereo turned up all the way all the time. If you don't have your stereo turned up all the way you are not sending all of the amplifiers power to the speaker and thus underpowering it.

 

well just a note. kicker is one of the best in my book handles power clear tones good looks just look at my truck in the gallery tim`s custom super duty 8/24/07. but if you
save and go slow look hard you will get all you want. Ido think 10" subs are the way to go in the cab behind or under the rear seat (plenty of pound)

 

Also, I think you guys are forgetting what he is putting the subs into. If he goes with the SuperCrew Sound box for behind the rear seat he has to use a sub with a mounting depth of less than 5.25", and he has 0.55 cubic feet per sub. Kicker does not make a 10" sub that will work well in that box. However the Image Dynamics IDQ10 is a perfect match (probably why Super Crew Sound recommends them), and they are great subs.

http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/prod...d=idq&type=sub