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Ok, so after a bunch of time I have figured out that my starter is going bad. Here is the skinny:
Put it on the truck when I had a lot of work done on the drive train about 4-5 years ago. Starter is a XS Pro.
Had headers installed also.
About 6 months ago I noticed when the engine got hot the starter began not working.
got under the vehicle and noticed that the "stock" paint wore off of the headers (they were hedman hedders). Does not have a problem starting when cold. When hot I can tap the starter and it will start right up (usually)
So here is my question: Is there a larger problem I am not seeing here or do performance starters not last as long as stock starters and/or what should be the life expectancy of a starter.
Please let me know if I am not being clear enough and as always any help is GREATLY appreciated.
My '78 does the same thing. I have ordered a heat insulation wrap for my starter to help keep it cool. My headers (hooker comps) get hot too. I have a 460 and it gets warm under the hood so I am hoping the starter wrap helps. I would say your problem is similar and you need to find a way to keep it insulated. There are mini starters out there too, don't know much about them. Also, I changed out my solenoid and noticed a slight improvement.
sounds like your brushes inside that starter are bad. replace it. i like new starters and alts. they are better and last forever in contrast to the reman junk out there. there is not one good remaned company. they all suck, they take it apart and fix as little as possible as cheap as possible. at least the new is all new.
Wrap it and or shield it is about the best you can do,I have a set of Doug Thorley's and I know what is it like.Keep it super tuned so it starts quick,for the most part all you have to do is is tap the starter.My truck is kind of wierd sometimes I just turned to ign and the motor will bump,not start but bump(cold or hot)
Some starters just suck and don't last long.I had one where the nose cone broke,yeah that was fun.
Get some heat rap from your local hot rod shop, rap the headers try to go from top to bottom, If you have never done it ask the shop for advice, if they are any good they will be more than happy to give you the run down,once done you will notice the under hood heat to have dropped. most who use headers just never think about the high heat. most put headers on and dont increase the size of the exhaust pipes,this is a restriction again increase in tempature, high heat under the hood is a direct lose of power, the engine is sucking that heat into the air cleaner,remember the rage today for cold air kits? do your self a favor get the heat out.JNT
Wrapped the Headers in DEI wrap. Is that good enough or do I need something more serious? Also bought a heat shield for the starter.
HOWEVER, I did not wrap the headers or put a heat shield on the exhaust until probably about 3 years after the headers were put on so probably the starter is shot right?
Also, how hot do these FE blocks run? I changed out the radiator for an aluminum radiator edelbrock waterpump and an electric fan, and the engine seems awfully hot under the hood, but my temp guage rarely gets above the C mark on the temp scale in the dash, where before I was well into the "word" temp on the scale? (Should I start a new post for this one?)
Stats: 1974 Ford F100 360 V8, Edelbrock carb, intake, waterpump, becool aluminum radiator with Becool fan, Headman hedders with Flowmaster exhaust
running full synthetic motor oil (if that matters), stock air cleaner
Wrapped the Headers in DEI wrap. Is that good enough or do I need something more serious? Also bought a heat shield for the starter.
HOWEVER, I did not wrap the headers or put a heat shield on the exhaust until probably about 3 years after the headers were put on so probably the starter is shot right?
Also, how hot do these FE blocks run? I changed out the radiator for an aluminum radiator edelbrock waterpump and an electric fan, and the engine seems awfully hot under the hood, but my temp guage rarely gets above the C mark on the temp scale in the dash, where before I was well into the "word" temp on the scale? (Should I start a new post for this one?)
Stats: 1974 Ford F100 360 V8, Edelbrock carb, intake, waterpump, becool aluminum radiator with Becool fan, Headman hedders with Flowmaster exhaust
running full synthetic motor oil (if that matters), stock air cleaner
People who live in termperate climates can re-align the hood so there is a space at the back where it meets the cowl.
This allows for hot air to flow out of under the hood and keep the engine compartment cooler.
Not recommended for people who live in rainy/snowy climates
I think I might give that a try as well during the summer months here. It is 102 today in Georgia. I am going to buy a new mini starter though and just try that with the header tape and starter wrap. Maybe that will do the trick.
Thanks to everyone for all the help and suggestions!
I've never really had any heat/starter issues even though I have headers. If you weather seal where the hood meets the cowl is gone you should get some air flow through there.
One word of warning about header wrap- rust. The best way to lower underhood temps is ceramic coated headers. If you've already got painted headers, they can be coated, but most companies make them. They cost more, but worth it IMO. Ceramic headers keep the heat on the inside the pipes which helps maintain velocity of the gases, improving scavenging and lessening reversion, especially with a full exhaust system.
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