Well does not quite stall more of a hard stumble even the battery/voltage gauge drops and you can feel/hear it in the exhaust. It does this at all speeds, even in park. Has been getting worse over the past several weeks.

Dealer told me o2 sensor, easy enough- took me longer to jack up the van than to replace- No change. Fuel pump and filter are 10K old, plugs/wires about the same. IAC is new. No CEL. 165K on the odometer.

Get this - the dealer tells me it is the crank sensor. I am pretty sure the van does not have one. Any thoughts (besides don't go back to this Ford dealer)?

 

I have heard it called a crank sensor or cam sensor but what he is talking about is the "PIP" (AKA pickup unit/coil) sensor and yes it can do this. It would mean replacing the distributor as you have take it all apart to replace the sensor and most just replace the distributor.

 

ah, thanks! Can the distributor be pulled without lowering the motor? Sorry I dont have manual for my E-150.

 

Yes

Distributor

Removal
1. Align timing pointer with Top Dead Center (TDC) on crankshaft vibration damper (6316).
2. Mark position of No. 1 cylinder wire tower on distributor base adapter (12A217) for reference when reinstalling the distributor.
3. Loosen distributor cap hold-down screws.
4. Lift distributor cap with attached wire set straight off of distributor to prevent damage to the rotor blade and spring.
5. Position distributor cap and attached wire set aside so as not to interfere with removal.
6. Check if distributor rotor blade is pointing toward the marked position on the distributor base adapter that was previously made. If the distributor rotor blade is one half a revolution off, rotate the crankshaft one full revolution and realign timing pointer with TDC on crankshaft vibration damper.
7. Disconnect distributor to wiring harness.
8. Remove distributor rotor by pulling upward on the distributor rotor from the distributor shaft.
9. Remove distributor hold-down bolt and clamp.
10. Remove distributor from cylinder block by pulling upward with a slight side to side twist.
11. Cover distributor opening in cylinder block with a clean shop towel to prevent the entry of foreign material into the engine.

Installation
NOTE:
When installing the distributor, No. 1 piston must be at TDC of the compression stroke.

1. Visually inspect the distributor. The O-ring should fit tight onto the housing free of cuts. The drive gear should be free of nicks, cracks, or excessive wear. The distributor shaft should rotate freely, without any binding.
2. Lubricate the distributor gear teeth with a coating of fresh motor oil or with Engine Assembly Lubricant D9AZ-19579-D (ESR-M99C80-A).
3. Align the locating boss and fully seat the distributor rotor on the distributor shaft.
4. Rotate the distributor shaft so that the distributor rotor blade is pointing toward the marked position on the distributor base adapter.
5. Install the distributor into the cylinder block with a slight side to side twist.

NOTE:
If the vane and vane switch assembly can not be kept on the leading edge after installation, remove the distributor from cylinder block by pulling upward enough for the distributor gear to disengage from the camshaft gear. Rotate distributor rotor enough so that the gear will align on the next tooth of the camshaft gear.

6. Rotate the distributor in the engine to align the leading edge of the vane to the vane switch assembly. Verify that the distributor rotor blade is pointing toward the marked position on the distributor base adapter.
7. Install finger tight the distributor hold-down bolt and clamp.
8. Install the distributor cap with attached wire set straight on the distributor to prevent damage to the rotor blade and spring.
9. Tighten distributor cap hold-down screws to 2.0-2.6 N-m (18-23 in-lb).
10. Connect distributor to wiring harness.
11. Set initial timing according to procedures in the «Powertrain Control/Emissions Manual» .
12. Without moving timing adjustment, tighten distributor hold-down bolt and clamp to 23-34 N-m (17-25 ft-lb).

 

Thanks, doesn't look as bad as I thought. The price of a new distributor at $400 is. I will take this on this week.

Thanks again!

 

That sounds like a new Ford dealer price.
Try an auto parts store like NAPA.

 

Yep it was for a new one, but is was a Autolite from a chain store. I try to use new, when I can. also the remans didnt have the cap and rotor, this one did. I will price NAPA - I forget about them.

Thanks

 

165k on odometer, How about the timing chain? Worn? Check for it by turning crank with a breaker bar/ socket and have someone watch distributor rotor while turning crank forward and backward.

 

I replaced it when I did the water pump couple years ago - good idea to double check!
Thanks

 

OK, it was not the distributor nor the timing chain.

I have the 'remote mounted' ignition module and it might be that - but I cant find the bugger. Anyone have a picture of the module or the location? When I look at Rockauto.com or Advanced Auto they dont have a picture of it.

Thanks in advance.

 

There is the location.
Make sure the replacement module is BLACK!

 

AWSOME! That is exactly what needed. Off to the parts store.

Thanks!

 

Be careful the parts stores will try to sell you a gray one.
The gray one will give errors, you may have to get a black one from a Ford dealer.

 

Oh- Thanks. Ford wants 10-14 days to get. I can wait.

 

Found one, I am glad I had a thin wall socket to fit those little nuts!
Anyway back to square one - still same almost-stalling issue - it seems to be more frequent now.

I have replaced:

O2 sensor - Ford dealer diagnosis - boy did it need it - it was split open.
IAC - Ford dealer diagnosis
Control Module, fender mounted- Ford Dealer Diagnosis - org told it was the Crank Pos sensor which the 94 5.8L does not have.
Ignition switch - had to replace a couple dash bulbs so It was easy to get to and only $20 since I had to take everything off to get to the bulbs.
Dist cap/rotor/ PCV valve and hose - found one sparkplug boot connector rusted at the cap - will replace all the wires and plugs this week - dont think it is related.

Fuel pump and filter done about 18 months ago 8K miles. Timing chain is good, did not skip a tooth -no excessive slack.

Issue occurs now after 45- 60 second after start up. just like someone t/off the key and right back on, never quits 100%. Does this in idle, acceleration, in Park, in Drive, Reverse. I have looked for a vacuum leak but dont hear anything.

No CEL comes on.

Not sure what else to do...