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Here are my questions, as far as the ignition system tell me what you have replace?
Coil, yes or no?
Distributor (yes, but with a used one of unknown condition)
Cap, rotor, wires (all motorcraft? If not what brand are they, or from what store)
TFI module (again, is it a dealer part or aftermarket)
Checked ALL the wiring from the battery to the ignition system?
Check for chafing on any of the wires near the TFI module and distributor base
HAVE YOU PULLED THE CODES? (if not www.fordfuelinjection.com) will help you tremendously.
Here are my questions, as far as the ignition system tell me what you have replace?
Coil, yes or no? Not recently 24 months
Distributor (yes, but with a used one of unknown condition)
Cap, rotor, wires (all motorcraft? If not what brand are they, or from what store) Motorcraft cap & rotor, Autolite Pro wires will be used with Motorcraft copper plugs. Wires and plugs not done yet aprox 30K on both Autolite coppers and cheap Autozone crap wires are currently on.
TFI module (again, is it a dealer part or aftermarket) Aftermarket - used the correct silicone grease and cleaned the heatsink really well.
Checked ALL the wiring from the battery to the ignition system? No, hmmm
Check for chafing on any of the wires near the TFI module and distributor base Wiring was good- even cut open the loom to be sure - taped back and placed in org position.
HAVE YOU PULLED THE CODES? (if not www.fordfuelinjection.com) will help you tremendously.
Don't have an ODBCI reader. I guess this is next. The dealer- way back at step one said there were no codes, after I replaced the O2 sensor-- they are not high on my list of professionals right now. Thanks for all the replies guys!
Use a paper clip, I never use a reader with an OBD I system.
As pfogle said above:
To check your codes go to one of these links below and they will tell you how:
Ok, the cheap autozone wires tend to not do so well on a ford. They're Ok on a gm, but a ford will miss like crazy.. Been there done that. If the TFI was a wells product take it back and get a NAPA or Carquest expensive (I mean it's gonna be $50 or thereabouts) one. The coil could be bad again, check with a known good unit.
Yeah I know It was a shot in the dark with the wires but I burned one off on on Sunday afternoon and they were all I could get to get to work on Monday. The TFI was a GP Sorensen make?!?!? Typical house brand for Advanced Auto. Until I can pull the codes I will try the coil, quality wires and plugs. I just hope it is not the @#$# fuel pump again.
It sounds to me, I have the same Problem on an 1987 E 150 5,0 Ltr..
All the same symptoms and what I also know: When the stalling starts during driving, if you turn the ignition off/on the engine will run fine for a while.
I have just started to find the problem, no clue so far.
It would be nice to know if your truck acts the same when you turn the key while driving.
I might suspect a problem in the ECM. Just guessing. I let you know how I I'm doing.
Only runs well the first couple of minutes then it goes into this miss. It never quite stalls but it sure wants to. If I turn off the ignition and restart, even while driving the issue remains. I am going to pull the codes, when I get a chance and prob do the wires and plugs and get a new distributor - I got a junk yard one before and the issue got a tad worse after that I really think the PIP is still bad.
Auto-Sales, if you read the entire post I've posted a list of things to check first. The ford computers very RARELY go bad, and when they do it's usually due to the condition of the wiring. The first thing to replace when this sort of problem arises is the fuel filter. Then the plugs and wires, motorcraft ONLY plugs, and either motorcraft or napa premium wires. The autozone wires are JUNK all of them. You said that yours clears up for a bit if you turn the key off then back on. I had a vehicle that would do this too once, it turned out to be the ignition switch was bad. It wasn't fully returning to the RUN position from the START position.
Auto-Sales, if you read the entire post I've posted a list of things to check first. The ford computers very RARELY go bad, and when they do it's usually due to the condition of the wiring. The first thing to replace when this sort of problem arises is the fuel filter. Then the plugs and wires, motorcraft ONLY plugs, and either motorcraft or napa premium wires. The autozone wires are JUNK all of them. You said that yours clears up for a bit if you turn the key off then back on. I had a vehicle that would do this too once, it turned out to be the ignition switch was bad. It wasn't fully returning to the RUN position from the START position.
Yes. certainly I have read all to this topic before I come up with new thoughts.
So far it seems to me nothing has worked out. On my van the engine is shout off compleetly while driving, it comes on interrupetly (stuttering) but does not backfire. If , as said, I turn ignition off/on the van will run as if nothing is wrong , even for long distances, if I'm lucky. So I would say that tempering with the key while driving does reset something like: EGR valve ( checked that: no luck), some relais, and... well here is where I'm stuck.
Plugs, wires and filters , as far as I know don't improove by turning the key. The fuel pump is pumping fine and low fuelpressure due to a foulty pump would also cause backfires.
I'm still thinking of checking the ECM. Will the unit of a 1990 Lincoln Town Car with the same engine do for a trial run ?? It's the only one I have access to right now.
Greetz, Ingo
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