94 E-150 5.8l stalling
#31
09-06-2007, 02:59 AM
Originally Posted by pfogle
Auto-Sales, if you read the entire post I've posted a list of things to check first. The ford computers very RARELY go bad, and when they do it's usually due to the condition of the wiring. The first thing to replace when this sort of problem arises is the fuel filter. Then the plugs and wires, motorcraft ONLY plugs, and either motorcraft or napa premium wires. The autozone wires are JUNK all of them. You said that yours clears up for a bit if you turn the key off then back on. I had a vehicle that would do this too once, it turned out to be the ignition switch was bad. It wasn't fully returning to the RUN position from the START position.
Originally Posted by pfogle
Auto-Sales, if you read the entire post I've posted a list of things to check first. The ford computers very RARELY go bad, and when they do it's usually due to the condition of the wiring. The first thing to replace when this sort of problem arises is the fuel filter. Then the plugs and wires, motorcraft ONLY plugs, and either motorcraft or napa premium wires. The autozone wires are JUNK all of them. You said that yours clears up for a bit if you turn the key off then back on. I had a vehicle that would do this too once, it turned out to be the ignition switch was bad. It wasn't fully returning to the RUN position from the START position.
So far it seems to me nothing has worked out. On my van the engine is shout off compleetly while driving, it comes on interrupetly (stuttering) but does not backfire. If , as said, I turn ignition off/on the van will run as if nothing is wrong , even for long distances, if I'm lucky. So I would say that tempering with the key while driving does reset something like: EGR valve ( checked that: no luck), some relais, and... well here is where I'm stuck.
Plugs, wires and filters , as far as I know don't improove by turning the key. The fuel pump is pumping fine and low fuelpressure due to a foulty pump would also cause backfires.
I'm still thinking of checking the ECM. Will the unit of a 1990 Lincoln Town Car with the same engine do for a trial run ?? It's the only one I have access to right now.
Greetz, Ingo
#32
09-06-2007, 11:10 AM
Like I said before the ECM probably is NOT the weak link in the system. Try replacing the ICM (mounted on the distributor) first. The only thing that playing with the key is doing is shutting off the fuel pump and turning it back on. That's the only thing that would "reset" in that situation. You may want to drop the tank and inspect the pump assembly, and the filter screen. It sounds like there may be some crap in the fuel tank clogging the pump.
#33
09-16-2007, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Frat-man-du
Only runs well the first couple of minutes then it goes into this miss. It never quite stalls but it sure wants to. If I turn off the ignition and restart, even while driving the issue remains. I am going to pull the codes, when I get a chance and prob do the wires and plugs and get a new distributor - I got a junk yard one before and the issue got a tad worse after that I really think the PIP is still bad.
The engine will rev fine, smooth and strong, but at idle, park and at times lite acceleration every few seconds you get this hard stumble - the batter gauge goes down, RPMs drop for only a moment they it seems to correct itself. It never stall all the way.
I have chacked the battery cables - all clean and tight. Re-did the ground to be sure.
#34
09-16-2007, 10:00 AM
#36
09-16-2007, 05:56 PM
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#39
09-16-2007, 08:31 PM
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09-16-2007, 09:41 PM
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09-17-2007, 07:13 AM
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#43
09-20-2007, 07:12 PM
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Well finally got the little %$^% EGR valve out. Had to pull the trans tube off, joy, joy. The valve seems OK- holds a vacuum fine and the port seems clear (as does the tube). I guess it is the EVP sensor. Where does vac line come from? It is dark & my kids hid the flashlights.
Last edited by Frat-man-du; 09-20-2007 at 07:14 PM.
#44
09-20-2007, 08:44 PM
#45
09-21-2007, 06:48 AM
I'm not sure you've read your codes right. In a '94 it should have three digit codes not two. Count the pause between flashes. If it's flash (one sec pause) flash (one sec pause) flash (one sec pause) then it's a 111 code, which is all clear. If it's a flash, flash, flash (one second pause), flash flash flash, (one second pause) flash. Then it's a 331 code which is a thermactor (A.I.R. system) code and can be ignored.
