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1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

94 E-150 5.8l stalling

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Old Sep 6, 2007 | 02:59 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by pfogle
Auto-Sales, if you read the entire post I've posted a list of things to check first. The ford computers very RARELY go bad, and when they do it's usually due to the condition of the wiring. The first thing to replace when this sort of problem arises is the fuel filter. Then the plugs and wires, motorcraft ONLY plugs, and either motorcraft or napa premium wires. The autozone wires are JUNK all of them. You said that yours clears up for a bit if you turn the key off then back on. I had a vehicle that would do this too once, it turned out to be the ignition switch was bad. It wasn't fully returning to the RUN position from the START position.
Originally Posted by pfogle
Auto-Sales, if you read the entire post I've posted a list of things to check first. The ford computers very RARELY go bad, and when they do it's usually due to the condition of the wiring. The first thing to replace when this sort of problem arises is the fuel filter. Then the plugs and wires, motorcraft ONLY plugs, and either motorcraft or napa premium wires. The autozone wires are JUNK all of them. You said that yours clears up for a bit if you turn the key off then back on. I had a vehicle that would do this too once, it turned out to be the ignition switch was bad. It wasn't fully returning to the RUN position from the START position.
Yes. certainly I have read all to this topic before I come up with new thoughts.
So far it seems to me nothing has worked out. On my van the engine is shout off compleetly while driving, it comes on interrupetly (stuttering) but does not backfire. If , as said, I turn ignition off/on the van will run as if nothing is wrong , even for long distances, if I'm lucky. So I would say that tempering with the key while driving does reset something like: EGR valve ( checked that: no luck), some relais, and... well here is where I'm stuck.
Plugs, wires and filters , as far as I know don't improove by turning the key. The fuel pump is pumping fine and low fuelpressure due to a foulty pump would also cause backfires.
I'm still thinking of checking the ECM. Will the unit of a 1990 Lincoln Town Car with the same engine do for a trial run ?? It's the only one I have access to right now.
Greetz, Ingo
 
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Old Sep 6, 2007 | 11:10 AM
  #32  
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Like I said before the ECM probably is NOT the weak link in the system. Try replacing the ICM (mounted on the distributor) first. The only thing that playing with the key is doing is shutting off the fuel pump and turning it back on. That's the only thing that would "reset" in that situation. You may want to drop the tank and inspect the pump assembly, and the filter screen. It sounds like there may be some crap in the fuel tank clogging the pump.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2007 | 09:31 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Frat-man-du
Only runs well the first couple of minutes then it goes into this miss. It never quite stalls but it sure wants to. If I turn off the ignition and restart, even while driving the issue remains. I am going to pull the codes, when I get a chance and prob do the wires and plugs and get a new distributor - I got a junk yard one before and the issue got a tad worse after that I really think the PIP is still bad.
OK, went and got a new Motorcraft distributor - same issue...sigh Pulled codes, nothing. I have not done the TPS but not sure this issue is symptomatic of that sensor failing.

The engine will rev fine, smooth and strong, but at idle, park and at times lite acceleration every few seconds you get this hard stumble - the batter gauge goes down, RPMs drop for only a moment they it seems to correct itself. It never stall all the way.

I have chacked the battery cables - all clean and tight. Re-did the ground to be sure.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2007 | 10:00 AM
  #34  
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Red face

maybe feul problem?, know you replaced, pump,filter while back, might be worth cking,feul flow, pressure, feul reg. coil going bad?. wow what a B, hope you figure it out soon. srry posted before seen last page
 

Last edited by cleeE150; Sep 16, 2007 at 10:02 AM.
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Old Sep 16, 2007 | 10:12 AM
  #35  
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srry posted before seeing last page.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2007 | 05:56 PM
  #36  
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Tried again and got 3-3 1 3-3 (code 33 EGR valve not opening) looks like a stuck EGR. Where the frick did they hide the EGR on the 94 5.8?
 
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Old Sep 16, 2007 | 06:58 PM
  #37  
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should be near water outlet, passenser side engine?.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2007 | 07:25 PM
  #38  
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It's on the passenger side of the throttle body.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2007 | 08:31 PM
  #39  
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behind the IAC?
 
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Old Sep 16, 2007 | 09:41 PM
  #40  
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The IAC is on the drivers side of the TB, (or at least it should be), the EGR is the BIG canister on the left side (as you look at it) of the throttle body.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 06:33 AM
  #41  
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Maybe this will help.


/
 
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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 07:13 AM
  #42  
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Perfect, thanks!
 
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Old Sep 20, 2007 | 07:12 PM
  #43  
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Well finally got the little %$^% EGR valve out. Had to pull the trans tube off, joy, joy. The valve seems OK- holds a vacuum fine and the port seems clear (as does the tube). I guess it is the EVP sensor. Where does vac line come from? It is dark & my kids hid the flashlights.
 

Last edited by Frat-man-du; Sep 20, 2007 at 07:14 PM.
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Old Sep 20, 2007 | 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Frat-man-du
Where does vac line come from?
It comes from the EGR Control Solenoid (EVR).
Green Vacuum line is from the solenoid to the EGR Valve and the Black Vacuum Line supplies the solenoid with vacuum.

/
 

Last edited by subford; Sep 20, 2007 at 08:55 PM.
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Old Sep 21, 2007 | 06:48 AM
  #45  
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I'm not sure you've read your codes right. In a '94 it should have three digit codes not two. Count the pause between flashes. If it's flash (one sec pause) flash (one sec pause) flash (one sec pause) then it's a 111 code, which is all clear. If it's a flash, flash, flash (one second pause), flash flash flash, (one second pause) flash. Then it's a 331 code which is a thermactor (A.I.R. system) code and can be ignored.
 
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