98 E150 Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) Lights not working
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98 E150 Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) Lights not working
The RKE quit working so I purchased, installed, and programmed a new RKE. I soon discovered that the interior, instrument panel, and running lamps were not working. Fuses are all good. I reinstalled the old RKE and my lamps all work but now I am back to not having door locks. Any and all suggestions wanted and accepted.
Tuned
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The pad on the door (not the keyfob) It is a tiny filament bulb - generally non-replaceable hard wired into the pad. My 98 Mark had the lamp go out, then a few days later the whole pad went out then the remotes stopped working. No longer carried by the dealer and the bone-yard wanted $50 so I took it to a radio repair shop and for $20 they wired a new one in it. The tech told me one of the wires was chaffed enough to short it out. The whole system started working again after I installed the repaired pad ( and all new batteries for the remotes). Hope this helps.
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All of my trouble shooting has proved that the electrical wire and the lamps on the van are good. As I stated in my first posting all my lights, horn, and running lights work with my old RKE but the door locks do not; both remote and the buttons on the door. After installing the new RKE all the door lock functions work but my lamp do not. I had a Ford mechanic look at it and he is just as puzzled as I. I have contacted TRW, the MFG of the RKE, and obtained diagrams. I have not proved it yet but it appears that pin 9 on the RKE connector was changed from an input to an output for the head light switch. I hope to talk to a techie type at TRW soon.
Please keep the suggestions coming, I may be barking up the wrong tree.
Please keep the suggestions coming, I may be barking up the wrong tree.
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After having the trouble with the first new RKE Ford did a warrantee replacement however, the 2nd new RKE did the same thing as the first.
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Tuned
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Wow that is weird. Is the revision the same on the old vs. new part - the last alpha character. -A, -AB etc. Ford may have superseded another part that cross references another vehicle but has a diff wire configuration and they didn't catch this. May have to get one from a bone yard or gasp...eBay if that is the case.
I had an issue on a turn signal arm from my 65 t-Bird - Ford swears up and down I got the right part but the threads were not the same, after 3 returns I found out they had lumped 62-66 together (threads were fine from 62-64 and course from 65-66. They never did change it, they just ended up obsoleting the part. I had my org arm re-chromed. Point is that the new part(s) could still be wrong.
I had an issue on a turn signal arm from my 65 t-Bird - Ford swears up and down I got the right part but the threads were not the same, after 3 returns I found out they had lumped 62-66 together (threads were fine from 62-64 and course from 65-66. They never did change it, they just ended up obsoleting the part. I had my org arm re-chromed. Point is that the new part(s) could still be wrong.
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The Ford part numbers match up but revision numbers from TRW do not. It appears that TRW have made 5 revisions to the circuit board since 1994 with the last revision being made in 2002. Ford has been helpful to a point but for the most part I am on my own.
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I just finished some trouble shooting on both the old and new RKE. Both TRW (the MFG of the RKE) and Alldata schematics show the main light switch (aka Head light switch) providing power to the RKE on pin 9. This is supposed to activate a relay in the RKE in turn providing power out pins 1 & 15 to the instrument lamps and others. Here are my findings; keep in mind that the circuit for the lamp works fine with the old RKE. I found that on my van the main light switch is providing power to the RKE via pins 1 & 15, the opposite of what the prints say. With the old RKE power on pins 1 & 15 activate the relay in the RKE applying power to pin 9 and instrument and other lamps come on. When the new RKE is plugged in power on pins 1 & 15 have no affect on the RKE, in other words not power out on pin 9.
I am contemplating on cutting wires for pins 1 &15 and 9 and reversing them but I hate doing that. My other thought was what if there is a problem with the main light switch?
I am contemplating on cutting wires for pins 1 &15 and 9 and reversing them but I hate doing that. My other thought was what if there is a problem with the main light switch?
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First off my previous posting was not entirely accurate. In fact I was way off with respect to Pins 1, 15, & 9; I was using the old RKE which is bad. Da! Here is the correct purpose of these pins. Pins 1 & 15 parallel the main light switch providing power to the head light relay. Pin 9 parallels the same switch but providing power to the instrument panel and courtesy lamps.
After thorough examination of the TRW and Ford prints for the RKE I decided to ohm out each pin of the second RKE from Ford. Long story short, I found that Pin 9 was shorted to pin 23 which is frame ground when plugged in.. Pin 9 gets 12VDC when the main light switch is turned on or when the unlock button is pressed on the key fob; this immediately blows fuse #10. In my first post I had stated that all fuses were good, what can I say, these 45 year old eyes need glasses. This time I continuity tested the fuse and it was indeed blown,
With my new found info I went back to Ford and convinced them to order a third RKE. Today, with prints and meter spread out on the parts counter we ohmed out the pins on the RKE. Out of the box, pins 9 and 23, dead short.
Nest step, the parts guy is turning the issue over to Ford Engineering so I’ll wait and see.
After thorough examination of the TRW and Ford prints for the RKE I decided to ohm out each pin of the second RKE from Ford. Long story short, I found that Pin 9 was shorted to pin 23 which is frame ground when plugged in.. Pin 9 gets 12VDC when the main light switch is turned on or when the unlock button is pressed on the key fob; this immediately blows fuse #10. In my first post I had stated that all fuses were good, what can I say, these 45 year old eyes need glasses. This time I continuity tested the fuse and it was indeed blown,
With my new found info I went back to Ford and convinced them to order a third RKE. Today, with prints and meter spread out on the parts counter we ohmed out the pins on the RKE. Out of the box, pins 9 and 23, dead short.
Nest step, the parts guy is turning the issue over to Ford Engineering so I’ll wait and see.
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