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Old Jul 22, 2007 | 10:27 AM
  #16  
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redford
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A lug centric lug nut is tapered on the bottom, where it meets the wheel. The taper centers the wheels on the lugs.

Hub centric lug nuts are flat on the bottom, the lug nut does not have to center the wheel (the hub did the centering). It only has to hold the wheel down.

There are good arguements on both sides as to which is better.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2007 | 01:16 PM
  #17  
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Countermaker, there are manufacturers that make hub centric rings, the company that makes your wheels may even have them, if you google search "hub centric rings" you will get quite a few hits.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2007 | 03:19 PM
  #18  
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aldridgec
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Originally Posted by CounterMaker
alright guys...thanks alot...you guys always have loads of info!!! ALDRIDGEC it is a 9 inch wheel not 10...thanks again

http://www.4wheelparts.com/PDT246538.aspx
Now I think I may have egg on my face!

Knowing a 9 inch wheel, if you take the 6.6mm and subtract it from the 4.75 backspacing you get a 4.5 inch centerline or 9 inch wheel.

Edit:

I double checked my facts, and looked at the link provided earlier and my method is right. Not sure why it didn't work out. Hopefully you get the idea, and of course I will rack my brain until I figure out what I did wrong.
 

Last edited by aldridgec; Jul 22, 2007 at 03:26 PM.
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Old Jul 22, 2007 | 03:32 PM
  #19  
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It is possible pro comp measures the backspacing from the outer flange, even though it is a 9 inch wheel. The flange width is probably 10 inches which would explain my error. My calculations earlier should be right then about how far it will stick out, if the stock figures are correct. If you can measure from the inner flange of the wheel to the mounting pad I could get a more accurate calculation for you.

Nice choice in wheels BTW. Should look pretty good. I wouldn't worry about the hub vs lug centric thing. Just make sure you get the right lugs for the holes (tapered or flat). It should take tapered nuts being lug centric. You could get the rings additionally to make sure it is centered if you are worried.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2007 | 03:38 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by aldridgec
It is possible pro comp measures the backspacing from the outer flange, even though it is a 9 inch wheel. The flange width is probably 10 inches which would explain my error. My calculations earlier should be right then about how far it will stick out, if the stock figures are correct. If you can measure from the inner flange of the wheel to the mounting pad I could get a more accurate calculation for you.

Nice choice in wheels BTW. Should look pretty good. I wouldn't worry about the hub vs lug centric thing. Just make sure you get the right lugs for the holes (tapered or flat). It should take tapered nuts being lug centric. You could get the rings additionally to make sure it is centered if you are worried.
dont rack your braing to much bro!!.. thanks alot for your time!! hopefully i get word sson that they are in
 
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Old Jul 23, 2007 | 08:05 PM
  #21  
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I guess I was a little bored or lazy!
 
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Old Jul 24, 2007 | 02:56 PM
  #22  
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I put some Dick Cepek DC-1 17x9's on my '07 with BFG AT 350/65's. Backspacing is about 4-9/16" and without any lift they just clear the front bumper through the turn radius by about 3/4". The backspacing puts the wheel/tire outside the fender by about 1-1/2".

One item on the hub-centric vs. lug-centric - if you use a lug centric wheel (obviously you need the correct lug nuts) put them on and torque to spec (150 ft-lbs) with the tires off the ground. Have a buddy stand on the brake while you torque. This will help assure you get everything seated properly before loading.
 
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