Some might think this is a waste of time and money but I am a tinkerer and want to build an engine test stand to run my rebuilt motor before installing in my truck. I have seen some magazine articles on doing this but want to ask; if anyone has done the same and what tricks, tips can be offered in setting up an engine rack to do this. I figure on using a radiator, mufflers, etc to simulate in vehicle use. Any comments please.

 

Someone talked about this before and got the suggestion to get a front frame section from a junk yard. I heard it can be had for dirt cheap, and has all the mounts for the rad and engine. Also, you can mount the axle and wheels to make it easy to move. This is probably the cheapest way to go, because good strong steel to make the framework can cost a good bit, plus it's already welded for you.

 

That's the way I would go if I were to do this...

-Andrew
f250_64(No Email Addresses In Posts!), same for yahoo messenger

Nothing, and I mean nothing, stirs the soul, saying I'm a bad **** like lettin'em rip with a window shaking, fuel gulpin, carbon monoxide belchin, attention gettin, V-oh my LORD!-8!

 

I built one years ago. Love it. It's not pretty but it is functional.

The frame is mounted on casters so I can roll it around. The front engine mounts on a bracket built for each engine and these brackets bolt into the frame using the same mounting point for all engines. There is one rear bracket for the transmission mounts and location of this one varies due to the length of the various transmissions. I have built several plates to mount transmissions to this bracket. There is a battery box (angle iron) in the front. The biggest problem is getting radiator hoses for small and large engines to fit. I set the engines rather high so I can pull an oil pan without any problem.

It is made of 1 1/2" angle iron and not heavy at all. Width 27 inches, length 56 inches, bottom of the frame 8 inches off the floor and the bottom of the radiator is 24 inches off the floor. The front/radiator bracket can be unbolted for those times when I need to pull the front off an engine and don't want to remove the engine from the test stand. Some of transmissions hang out over the end, but so what. The actual engine brackets are out if rectangular tube, 1 1/2 by 3 inches, and each bracket is one piece tying the two sides together directly under the engine.

It doesn't have to withstand much more than static loads. The little bit of torque reaction is offset by making the frame a bit wider than most engines. I rev'd more than one stout 428 without any problems. I set the casters in from the ends of the frame and when I don't have any engine on it, it tilts forward so much that I had to add a front caster to it.

Tach, amp, oil pressure, and water temperature gauges, voltage regulator, starter button and ignition toggle switch mount on the radiator bracket. One of these days I will probably add a vacuum gauge. I built a pair of header mufflers for those times when I need to run with it quiet. This also lets me hear the engine and not just the exhaust. A couple of different adapters work fine here; sometimes I reverse the mufflers and connect to their outlet.

I still haven't figured out how to load the engines, but it is nice to run them and check oil pressure and for water and oil leaks. You can't really get the engines over heated without a load so a small radiator is more than enough. I seldom find a problem but it lets me burn in the header paint and then the headers can be easily wiped off after installation and don't have dirty hand prints all over them. It is nice knowing that the engine will run and not have to be pulled, especially for some of the vans and other difficult installations.

Bob
'66 7 Litre, top loader, 3.25 Traction-lock, Sidewinder Intake, SCJ Exhaust
'88 F150 XLT Lariat, 302, 5 speed, 3.08
'99 Ranger, 3.0, 5 speed, 3.73 posi

 

Thanks so much for ideas and info. I will be putting an engine run stand together in some fasion......your ideas will help alot. Am working on a 289 now with a C4. Just finished the C4 rebuild but have lots to do on the motor. Truck installation is not an easy one so the stand will be used to make sure all is up to snuff beforehand.
Greg in Georgia