I have a 77 Ford with 250,000 miles. It has been a great truck and I was going to restore / rebuild it this Spring. I have done all the maintence and repair on it thus far. (Brakes, Radiator, Starters, Alternators ... the general stuff.) However, I do not think I am qualified to rebuild the engine. However, I am wanting to do as much as I can before I farm it out; both to save money and learn. Can I pull the engine without special tools beyond just an engine hoist? Are there guides for doing this?
Thanks
George.

 

Pulling an engine doesn't require any special tools beyond the engine hoist. The key to success is to make sure to label all of the various lines, hoses & wires so you know how to put it back in. It doesn't hurt to tke some pictures or video so you can refer back to it in case you miss something. Also don't forget the groundstrap which connects the engine block to the body. I can't tell you how many I've seen ripped apart as the engine is pulled out.

 

Get ahold of the book "How to Rebuild Small-Block Ford Engines". It has a lot of information. There is an entire chapter on pulling the engine. They use an old Mustang for the demo, but most of it will apply to a truck as well. Even if you don't plan on doing your own rebuild, this book is a wealth of information.

Title: "How to Rebuild Small-Block Ford Engines"
Auther: Tom Monroe
ISBN 0-912656-89-1

Roger Lane

 

Thanks, all.

 

If this is your first pull, don't pull engine and tranny together. unbolt the tranny, drop it on your floor jack or furniture dolly, pull the engine first then o back and pull the tranny.
Many hoists are rated for 1/2 to 1 ton when fully extended but the balance is all wrong and some hoists will bend or tilt forward... crushing the pan in the process.
P.S. Dont for get to remove the dipstick and tube from the auto tranny when pulling the engine!!!!!

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I myself prefer pulling the tranny with the motor. It seems easier to manipulate and it certainly helps facilitate the mating of the tranny when you put it back together. It's a lot easier to get at the bell housing bolts when both are out of the truck and you don't have to worry about dropping the torque converter of damagine the splines.

Slik

 

I pulled the tired old worn out 302 in my 84 f 150 this past summer. It took a day to pul it out as i was careful to label everything and take notes on what goes where. I replaced it with a rebuilt 302 bored out .030 over with a 470 lift crane hydraulic cam. I learned a few things-one is to be careful that the torque converter stays in the transmission (i didnt have any problems with mine) and the most important is be patient and take your time with little details and dont force the new motor back in with the motor mounts and tranny. Setting the motor is a whole lot easier with a chain leveler that attaches to the cherry picker. Just move the tranny with the motor and be patient to be sure everything lines up. Oh, and get new motor mounts because they are a whole lot easier to replace when the motor's not sittin in the truck. One of the hardest things to do is get the timing right after pulling the distributor. Just set the number 1 cylinder on top dead center and set the rotor on number 1 (you'll see a number 1 on the cap). Carefully slide the distributor in just a hair ahead of the mark on the cap since the gear needs to mesh with the cam gear. Take your time and it'll go easy.