I have a 76 F-100 but the frame is a little rusted, what paint and preparation is reccomended, I want to paint the frame black.

Thanks in advence

 

sand blasting is preferred IMO, but it can get costly if you don't have a set up. you can also purchase a wire wheel for a grinder and go to town..... I used both those techniques.

 

i did mine with a wire wheel then layed the por15 on really thick

 

So, what paint brand, or kind should I use to paint the frame. I will be using a wire wheel to remove some of the rust.
Thanks

 

My 79 F150 frame was more than a little rusted. I spent a lot of time chipping, scraping, grinding, and sanding with anything I could think of. If your frame is a little rusted like you say, then a wire wheel might clean it enough to coat it with something like highboy1975 said. I tried Zerorust but didn't like the way it looked, so I went to good old Rustoleum.

 

I am in process of doing a frame off on my own 76. I sandblasted mine. If I had it to do all over again, I would have hired out the sandblasting. I was quoted a price of $200 by a reputable blaster in my area. He would have come to my site to do the blasting for this price.

As to paint, I had to do it twice. The first time it was done in rustoleum. It ended up peeling off. The Rustoleum is trash.

The second time I did it with POR 15. The POR 15 is super tuff. No problems with it.

 

what brand is the por 15 and where do you guys get it?

 

Scottie2hottie the web page for this product is www.port15.com.

hp246, when you apply the por 15, do you normally use a brush. And after applying the port 15 do you use another paint over the port 15.

 

I used a paint by Magnet Paints called Chassis Saver. This seems to be a very good product as well. You can check it out on their website. You just knock off the loose scale and rust and paint directly over. Can be sprayed or brushed. My frame had alot of rust on it and it coated over it rather smoothly and looks really good. I can post some pics to my gallery if you would like to see what it looks like coated. I also used this on the bottom of my cab.

 

mlevario99: as with many things you do in life, there's the quick way and the correct way... Por15 is a great product but there is quite a bit of work involved if you want the best result. First wire brush/sand the best you can; second use Por15's metal cleaner; third use their Metal Ready, which converts the remaining rust to a phosphated finish. Then apply at least 2 coats of Por15 chassis black no more than 24 hours apart.

If you want to paint over the Por15 with a different product (perhaps automotive paint) you first have to apply Por15's "Tie coat" primer or the automotive paint may not stick properly.

Most people just brush the Por15 on the wire brushed metal surface and get good results, but to get the best possible protection from future rust reappearing, you have to go 'the whole nine yards' as the old guys used to say.

Final comment: to do a real good job expect to spend $100-150. Don't forget to order a quart of the Por15 solvent (Warning!!! the solvent only works when paint has not dried yet) and get a box of nitrile gloves; throw away small brushes; throw away clothes...)

All the best.

 

btw...the Magnet paint can be topcoated and they don't require a primer.

 

1. POR 15 has their own web site, and that is the best way to buy and get fresh product. Just google por 15.
2. If you have a rusted frame, you should sandblast anyway to clean it up.
3. They do have some other products that they sell. One is a product called metal ready. I was told it was not necessary if you are going to blast and paint right away. I didn't use it and everything came out fine.
4. Yes I used a brush, and it worked great on the frame. If I was using it on visible sheet metal, I would thin it with their solvent and spray. Otherwise, the brushed on self levels pretty darn good for a frame.
5. I found no need to put down two coats.
6. Yes you can topcoat it with another product, but if you are painting the frame black, they have both gloss and flat black. Kinda silly to topcoat over it.
7. If you want to topcoat, I believe that there are a couple of ways to do it. I think the old way was to use a "tiecoat primer". They also have a self etching primer that you can put over the POR 15, or can use it as your base coat them topcoat with what ever you want.
8. The paint people will tell you different things about this stuff. From great to horrible. I can only tell you my experience with it has been excellent. As far as its holding power, I had an open can, a bit spilled over the side, and onto the floor of my polebarn. Had an emergency come up and left it over night. The next day I went out to the polebarn. I had to use a sledge hammer to remove the can. The spilt material is still there 3 years later.
9. I would recommend buying the stuff in the smallest quantities. It goes quite a long way. You don't want to open a can and brush from the can unless you are planning on using it up. Unlike a good martini, it should be stirred, not shaken or you will get bubbles in your finished product.
10. For other questions, call their tech support line, they are really helpful.

 

PS. The comment about wearing gloves and throwing away clothes is right on. Once it has bet it on been applied it does not come off. If you get the stuff on your hands, it does not wash off. Figure 2-3 weeks of wearing the stuff.

 

Chassis Saver is a one step, rust stopping underbody coating that can be applied directly over tight rust or sandblasted metal. The product requires no primers or top coats and can be applied using a paint brush or any type of spray equipment. Chassis Saver works by isolating metal from oxygen and moisture and without these factors present, rust can effectively be stopped permanently. Film integrity is practically bullet proof and so spectacular that for demonstration purposes, a thin steel panel that's been coated with Chassis Saver can be bent as far as you would fold a sheet of paper without even cracking.
The product has been sold for truck and commercial fleet maintenance but only recently has been made available to the professional and do-it-yourself restoration market. Eric Rosenthal, VP & Tech Director stated, "We've had a good deal of print media coverage over the past 18 months (160 publications) for the product and last month a short feature spot on TNN Trucks"! Stacey David (TNN Trucks) just used on Ted Nugent's Bronco Restoration...they have a website as well.