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1" is a sloppy fit, 15/16" won't go on. I think I read somewhere that the bolt is 24mm, which adds up. I can measure it tonight if you want to get a metric socket. 1" is 25.4mm, so it's a sloppy fit. I only have small metric tools, maybe 19mm tops. A 1" six point socket shouldn't have any problem even if it's a little oversize. Unfortunately, I've had to do this job several times lately.
Thanks a lot for the info. I cant get to my truck until tomarrow. Around here only metric sockets available, and to ship from the states takes about two weeks
Well here is my update, I now have my 24mm socket, and it worked perfectly. I turned that engine several times I didn't feel one stinkin thing. I know that should be good cause that would mean that nothing is in there, but now I'm either crazy or something else might be wrong. I think I will turn on it some mroe tomarrow to make sure nothing is binding. I think it would be obvious to feel something bind if a bolt or somthing was in there. What do you guys think? Eiether way I end up looking crazy or having to do a lot of work to fix the truck. I would just like to figure it out. Also I got my batteries back. They said that they are still good and have a charge, but they are getting older. Maybe the battteries will need replacing soon. Any guesses on what would make these symptoms besides my idea about something in the engine?
If the bolt was sticking a valve open you would know it because the crank would stop turning once the piston hit the valve. So that means its not holding a valve open but it doesn't mean its not in the intake runner going to the head. I really don't know what to tell you. Its a lot of exploritory work to find out for sure if the bolt is in there or not but its even more work it you crank it up and it falls in the cylinder and breaks the piston or bends a rod.
casey, is there any place over there that you can pull your starter and take it to, to have it load tested? I have seen bad starters turn diesels over about 1-2 spins and then stop (like the engine is locked up).
Not to jump the gun because it's not a good idea to start it up until you find the bolt. I'm thinking your fried valve cover gaskets could be a factor in your "no start" condition by not getting juice to the glow plugs. The wiring for the glow plugs goes through the valve cover gasket connectors. Plugging in the block heater for a few hours will negate the need for the glow plugs if your truck is stored in a chilly location but again, don't try to start it till you know what happened to the missing bolt. Good luck man. Too bad you're not stateside where someone on here might be close enough to you to help out.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I have also thought about checking that starter, but I'm still looking for a place to test it. Hopefully, it is the problem, thats easy. I'll have to make some more phone calls tomarrow. I also have the new gaskets on the way, not the cheapiest things in the world, but hopefully they will last me awhile. I will also continue my search for the bolt. I guess there really isn't a way of knowing if it is in there or not without taking it apart. This one is sure thrown me a screw ball. First it seems like one thing then the next minute something completly different.
Have you looked down the intakes on the heads and tried fishing around down there with a magnet yet? That Y pipe comes off in about 1 minute. Make sure your magnet is absolutely clean.
Well heres a new turn in the rollercoaster ride. I think this one is a good one though. I have found the bolt. After another two hours or so of searching I found it in a pile of grease and dirt kinda above the cps. Well that elminates one question, but I still have the one of why the truck wouldn't start. I have not found a place to test my starter yet, but I still have a couple of places to call. I guess there is no way to test it yourself?
My dad thought that maybe one of the cylinders filled with diesel and would give that feel of binding. Has one heard of this happening to our trucks. I think that is more common on gassers and carberators. Well now I really dont know what the trouble is.
Well that's great news. I'd say if you know your batteries are good and charged, and you can roll the motor over by hand, then your starter test is whether or not it can roll the motor. If not, I'd be thinking it's starter time.
Casey that is great news!! no pulling the heads! It is possible that there is a leaking injector but if you can turn the engine over by hand there isn't fluid in the cylinder either. Either you batteries are getting weak or your starter is ready to die. Or the battery cable is loose or bad. I would try to crank it over with the newly charged batteries and see what happens
Casey that is great news!! no pulling the heads! It is possible that there is a leaking injector but if you can turn the engine over by hand there isn't fluid in the cylinder either. Either you batteries are getting weak or your starter is ready to die. Or the battery cable is loose or bad. I would try to crank it over with the newly charged batteries and see what happens
Agreed, did you at anytime disconnect a engine ground??? with my expearance I had an engine that would either crank good, crank very slowly or not crank at all. was very intermeittant. Turned out the engine ground had rotten and fell off.
Check your cables, you know your battery is good and get that starter checked out.
I think you guys are right. I can't try to start it yet. I simply have to wait for about a week to get those new valve cover gaskets. Then I'll put her back togather and see what happens?
Tim
How often does one of the injectos leak like that? I do have very worn injectors. They are the original and I have 209000 miles. They probebly need to be replaced?
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