Tapping The Block For Head Studs
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Columbus, Indiana
Tapping The Block For Head Studs
Now that I have my heads back from scheid, it is time to install the head studs. As part of the installation, you are suppose to run a tap through the threads about a dozen times a piece. The problem is that a few of the threads start about 2" down in the block. This requires a special tap about 4.5" long at a minimum.
I have had zero luck finding a 4.5" long 12x1.75 tap. I thought about taking a standard tap and welding an extension on it. Before I do this, does anyone have any advice?
I have had zero luck finding a 4.5" long 12x1.75 tap. I thought about taking a standard tap and welding an extension on it. Before I do this, does anyone have any advice?
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Ellensburg, Washington
Your chances of welding an exstension on a tap and having it handle the torque are slim to none. it'll most likely just twist off the tap when its bottomed out in the block, the you'll be completly SOL. Who'd you get the studs from? I'd call them up and ask them what to do.
Did you have a performance set of heads made up or are they built to factory specs?
Cowboy Steve
Did you have a performance set of heads made up or are they built to factory specs?
Cowboy Steve
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12,835
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From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
I think welding the tap will work. Its common practice to run a tap down head bolt holes before reinstalling the head. take your time, run it down one turn then reverse half a turn and use penatrating oil if it helps. Blow the holes out with air when your done. One think that will help with the short holes is to get a tap socket that fits the square drive. These allow you to use a ratchet and makes it easier.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12,835
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From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
Originally Posted by powerstroked162
I see it twisting off the tap. Try butt welding it maybe. Your gonna be SOL if it twists off in the block past the deck.
Cowboy Steve
Cowboy Steve
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From: Columbus, Indiana
That is very true. If it twists off, bad things happen. It will be difficult to get a good weld on it since the tap is precisely the size of the hole. Any welds I do would need to be ground completely smooth. I was hoping someone else here had done this?
I got the studs from beans. They didn't come with any lube, and when I am told "sometimes they do, sometimes they don't", that doesn't excite me too much...
The heads are stock. Not by my choosing, scheid screwed up my instructions and did precisely what I told them NOTto do and charged me DOUBLE plus $70 what they said it was going to cost.
So far, not having a whole lot of luck.
I got the studs from beans. They didn't come with any lube, and when I am told "sometimes they do, sometimes they don't", that doesn't excite me too much...
The heads are stock. Not by my choosing, scheid screwed up my instructions and did precisely what I told them NOTto do and charged me DOUBLE plus $70 what they said it was going to cost.
So far, not having a whole lot of luck.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: MICHIGAN
You should use a tap extension, most machince tool supply companys carry them.
If you decide to weld an extension onto a tap you should braze it or silver solder it, not weld it. Tig weld brazing is best but Oxy/Acetylene torch works too. The faster you get it done the better, you don't want to get the tap too hot. Don't cool it with water either. Sandwich it between 2 thick pieces if steel to draw the heat out of it.
If you decide to weld an extension onto a tap you should braze it or silver solder it, not weld it. Tig weld brazing is best but Oxy/Acetylene torch works too. The faster you get it done the better, you don't want to get the tap too hot. Don't cool it with water either. Sandwich it between 2 thick pieces if steel to draw the heat out of it.
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