Grinding floorboard vibration
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New User
Joined: Jul 2007
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The tires are new with less than 1000 miles on em. I would hope they are fine. Warner or something like that comes to mind for hubs. I hate the auto ones. I have ruined a set in my Bronco. What is this saving fuel you are talking about? Manual vs. Locking hubs?
The exhaust is factory. If it is hitting the firewall, what do you do to fix it? Can you space it or put some put of heat resistant buffer? How close is to close to the firewall? Does physical contact with the pipe and firewall equal vibration?
The exhaust is factory. If it is hitting the firewall, what do you do to fix it? Can you space it or put some put of heat resistant buffer? How close is to close to the firewall? Does physical contact with the pipe and firewall equal vibration?
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 8,608
Likes: 13
From: Belair md
physical contact = vibration yes.
junk yard for the hubs, get the whole guts, cost next to nuthin
no fuel savings unles your autos are stuck engaged
to "space" the piep you can loosen it from the turbo and spin it
did you check your front end out yet?
btw the ft ujoints and shafts dont spin till you lock the t-case
get to your vib speed and click od off see if it goes away that will tell you if its drivetrain or wheel related.
junk yard for the hubs, get the whole guts, cost next to nuthin
no fuel savings unles your autos are stuck engaged
to "space" the piep you can loosen it from the turbo and spin it
did you check your front end out yet?
btw the ft ujoints and shafts dont spin till you lock the t-case
get to your vib speed and click od off see if it goes away that will tell you if its drivetrain or wheel related.
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New User
Joined: Jul 2007
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Now that I think of it, you are right u joints not spinning in the front until locked. I have clicked the OD off, and the vibration is still there. RPM will jump from 2000ish to approx 2.5. Next set of days off, after I deep fry the turkey, I am gonna crawl under and start checking loose everything, swaybar, etc... jack it up and tug on the tires to check ball joints and bearings, I will also have to double check the rear u joints like mentioned earlier. The one I am interested in is the DP. How do you fix it if it is touching? Can it be moved or buffered?
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,756
Likes: 38
From: Nampa, ID
I have a similar noise under the conditions you've mentioned. I took it to a transmission shop I trust. They said it might be the Torque Converter Clutches.
I have a related thread, if you want to take a look at it and see the suggestions given. Search on "grinding rattling noise" and you should find it. If not, send me a PM and I'll send you the direct link.
I have a related thread, if you want to take a look at it and see the suggestions given. Search on "grinding rattling noise" and you should find it. If not, send me a PM and I'll send you the direct link.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 218
Likes: 0
From: Southern Illinois
I have 300,000 on my auto hubs. Constantly use them onmy 97 4x4 F-350 5spd C-C 8'bed. Never have caused me any problems. Do check grease every 6 months.
And the truck weights 11,500 . One problem is that most people do not remember to back up 20 feet or more when returning back to 2x4 driving. That probably is the most important maintenance/operation of the Auto Hubs to maintain long life. I have had both types and like the auto hubs sincs I find myself in positions that I need to use them with short notice. Manual hubs means that you need to lock them in before you leave the pavement meaning that the front axles and diff are now turning all the time. When I am doing a Land Surveying job, I may need to go off road on short notice or the soil may be softer than thought so with auto's I can instantly activate and get back out. If I was pushing manuals, I would not get as far or if I had to stop and get out and lock them, I may sink to the point I am in trouble. My total 4x4 mileage is well in excess of 1,000,000 miles with probably 1/3 off road. Have had 4x4's for over 35 years.
And the truck weights 11,500 . One problem is that most people do not remember to back up 20 feet or more when returning back to 2x4 driving. That probably is the most important maintenance/operation of the Auto Hubs to maintain long life. I have had both types and like the auto hubs sincs I find myself in positions that I need to use them with short notice. Manual hubs means that you need to lock them in before you leave the pavement meaning that the front axles and diff are now turning all the time. When I am doing a Land Surveying job, I may need to go off road on short notice or the soil may be softer than thought so with auto's I can instantly activate and get back out. If I was pushing manuals, I would not get as far or if I had to stop and get out and lock them, I may sink to the point I am in trouble. My total 4x4 mileage is well in excess of 1,000,000 miles with probably 1/3 off road. Have had 4x4's for over 35 years.
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New User
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Originally Posted by IDMooseMan
I have a similar noise under the conditions you've mentioned. I took it to a transmission shop I trust. They said it might be the Torque Converter Clutches.
I have a related thread, if you want to take a look at it and see the suggestions given. Search on "grinding rattling noise" and you should find it. If not, send me a PM and I'll send you the direct link.
I have a related thread, if you want to take a look at it and see the suggestions given. Search on "grinding rattling noise" and you should find it. If not, send me a PM and I'll send you the direct link.
Junior User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Is it really loud, or is it sort of muffled? If it seems like a loud grinding sort of noise it is very possibly the down pipe hitting the firewall. Do you have a aftermarket DP? Does the problem seem to happen when turning to the right more than the left. How about when stepping on the brakes hard?
Sorry for so many questions but this was happening to me and tjbeggs set me on the right path, unfortunately after I had put in a new torque converter!
Sorry for so many questions but this was happening to me and tjbeggs set me on the right path, unfortunately after I had put in a new torque converter!
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 597
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From: West Palm Beach, Florida
It's not your downpipe. Stock DP's don't hit the firewall because they are mashed flat. Too flat. If you get rid of that thing you will like what you get out of that mod.
If it's your front bearings do them quickly. If they're making that much noise they're ruining hubs and spindles. Probably not them, though. After you've driven a bit (at highway speed when it makes the noise), without using your brakes alot jump out(after you coast to a stop and put it in park) and see if your hubs are hot. That will tell you if it's bearings or not. A good winter trick to use is to drive slowly for a mile or two in the FREEZING weather and there will be a definite crunching sound in the front like you're running over lots of little ice cubes as you crawl along.
When it's making the noise, keep your speed steady and hit your 4-way flashers and see if the noise goes away(unlocks your converter).
It may possibly be your Vacuum Pump. Has your brake light flashed on at all intermittently lately?
There is a small chance that it is your roaring fan clutch, too, especially since it's summer and it's HOT out and the fan clutch engages more this time of year.
If it's your front bearings do them quickly. If they're making that much noise they're ruining hubs and spindles. Probably not them, though. After you've driven a bit (at highway speed when it makes the noise), without using your brakes alot jump out(after you coast to a stop and put it in park) and see if your hubs are hot. That will tell you if it's bearings or not. A good winter trick to use is to drive slowly for a mile or two in the FREEZING weather and there will be a definite crunching sound in the front like you're running over lots of little ice cubes as you crawl along.
When it's making the noise, keep your speed steady and hit your 4-way flashers and see if the noise goes away(unlocks your converter).
It may possibly be your Vacuum Pump. Has your brake light flashed on at all intermittently lately?
There is a small chance that it is your roaring fan clutch, too, especially since it's summer and it's HOT out and the fan clutch engages more this time of year.
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New User
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It is a stock down pipe. I have checked and did not see it touching the firewall anywhere. No instrument lights flashing at me. No noises that I know of. I simply feel a vibration of some sort under foot almost a slight knock. I belive it when it is under a load at approx. 2000rpm. Slow speed and sharp turns seem to be fine. Arghhhhh???????
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 597
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From: West Palm Beach, Florida
Originally Posted by Neal 97 250
I just learned something. I didn't know the flashers unlocked the TC. Thanx 350 and keep up the good work.
Learned it here at the best spot on earth for Ford trucks!!!!! FTE 1st and best!!!!!
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The FREEZING weather does not quite make it down here to TX. So I will not be able to try that. I will however be able to try the TC deal with the four way switch or brake light. Got lots of highway for that. Have you guys tried additives? When I spoke with a couple of transmission repair places and mentioned TC, they said it was more prevalent on 150s than the bigger trucks. Not to say that it could not happen. Hopefully this switch test will tell me something. Thanks.
New User
Joined: Sep 2006
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Might be a clearance issue with the down pipe. Have you swapped out the original down pipe for the larger one? I've seen a couple of these where the clearance on the firewall is too close. When you accelerate hard or put a load on the engine/tranny the engine mounts allow just a bit of lift and the down tube will make contact with the firewall at the welded seam that should have been bent back or ground off.
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