mounting a generator
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,146
Likes: 3
From: Bradenton FL
I would make sure that the welder is equipped to handle 240 volts some appliances/tools are only rated for the voltage they specify, not all equipment is "DUAL" rated. If you dont youll fry the welder, maybe the gen. Then do the dry run to see if the generator will hold the welder under a full load, look for a current "amp" draw on the welder then multiply the amp x volts and hopefully its around 5500, if your over say 6200 the generator isnt going to be able to hold it. As far as mounting it in the truck, leave the ground lug alone unless you want to run an insulated conductor like #10, to a short piece of steel and jab it in the ground for good measure, if not leave it alone. I think that generator has wheels and two rubber bushings up front, you could just set it in the bed, whatever you use to mount it in the truck, i would build something out of wood. Secure the wood to the truck then secure the generator to the wood. Dont bolt it directly to the truck or the frame, in case of a fault.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,274
Likes: 1
From: Milroy, PA
FWIW All the welding trucks I see around here (the one place i frequent, great source for my steel) have either aluminum or steel flat beds, with their welder/generator setups bolted right to it. No insiulators, just plain bolted fast. Now they are a welder/generator combo, which in all reality should not matter. Just what ive seen around here.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,274
Likes: 1
From: Milroy, PA
Also another thing to consider, mounting to the bed vs mouting to the frame are electrically the same. There are 8 bolts that mount the bed to the frame, and there is no insulation. The bolts make a physical connection between the frame and the bed, making them electrically the same. Unlike the cab, which is on bushings, and if you notice, is connected to the frame electrically though a couple of braided grounding straps.
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