1950 Generator advice
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From: Grand Blanc
1950 Generator advice
Last week my generator quit charing. Upon inspection I found the 30 amp vatage regulator had stuck closed and burnt out. I replaced the it with another 30 amp regulator. I polarized the the generator by touching the Battery terminal to the Field terminal on the votage regulator. Checked the generator output. Nothing. Took the generator to the shop found out windings were burned out. Had them replaced. Put the generator back on last night, again polarized it (battery to field on V.R) expecting to be out enjoying the old F1 for a spin around town. Check the generator again at the battery. Nothing. Not charging, the light don't get brighter, nothing. Could it be a bad voltage regulator? My battery has enought juice to start the truck, is that enought to polarize the generator?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
It doesn't take much to polarize a gen, the point is to make sure it's not reverse polarized more than anything. The gen won't be putting out anything at idle, tho, is that where you checked? Try it at 1500 RPM.
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From: Grand Blanc
I drove it for about 5 miles. Three at 55 mph thinking I would see the gauge show charge. I will take it off again tonight and with jumper cables see it the generator spins. How do I test the generators output without taking it off? Positive on the armeture and negative to the block?
Lead Driver
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From: Kalispell, MT
(Polarizing) Yes, but you've got the procedure backward.
Shop manual says: with all connections correctly assembled, with the key off and before you start the engine - remove the Field wire at the regulator and briefly touch it to the battery wire connection on the regulator. You should see a faint blue spark. Re-connect the field wire to the regulator.
And the guys are right - at idle a generator will not produce electricity and your gauge will show discharge.
edit for your last question: a generator replaces juice to the battery slower than an alternator. After drawing my battery down it can take 20 or 30 miles of driving to bring the needle back up to the center line.
Are you 6 or 12V? Neg or Pos ground?
Shop manual says: with all connections correctly assembled, with the key off and before you start the engine - remove the Field wire at the regulator and briefly touch it to the battery wire connection on the regulator. You should see a faint blue spark. Re-connect the field wire to the regulator.
And the guys are right - at idle a generator will not produce electricity and your gauge will show discharge.
edit for your last question: a generator replaces juice to the battery slower than an alternator. After drawing my battery down it can take 20 or 30 miles of driving to bring the needle back up to the center line.
Are you 6 or 12V? Neg or Pos ground?
Last edited by mtflat; Sep 25, 2007 at 09:15 AM.
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From: Grand Blanc
The person I purchased the truck from, converted it to 12V negative ground. Tonight I will remove the Field wire at the regulator and touch it to the Battery connection. I'll then take it for a nice ride down I-75 for awhile and see what happens.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
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From: Kalispell, MT
Sounds like your setup is same as mine. My lights never dim/get brighter like they did on 6V. I attribute that to the 12V.
What regulator are you running? I usually just order one at NAPA for a 57-64 truck....
Only thing I know for sure is I've gone 6 years with this truck as a daily driver and it all keeps working.
The only time I burned up the electrical system was when the gen bearing failed which caused it to ground the armature to the case and it took out the regulator and ignition coil with it.
What regulator are you running? I usually just order one at NAPA for a 57-64 truck....
Only thing I know for sure is I've gone 6 years with this truck as a daily driver and it all keeps working.
The only time I burned up the electrical system was when the gen bearing failed which caused it to ground the armature to the case and it took out the regulator and ignition coil with it.
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From: Grand Blanc
I'm not sure right off hand what brand the voltage regulator is. Purchased from a local place that loves old Ford flatheads. They Could talk all day on them. Thanks for you input. Sounds like I haven't given the system long enough to produce any results. It's funny after having this truck error free for many years, the first thing that does wrong I pay extra special attention to. I never looked at the battery gauge this much in the last 15 years as did in the last few days. This forum is great.
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From: Ashland, KY
1950 Ford, sounds like you have the same problem I'm having. I'm going to do the same thing this evening. I'll get back and post, let us know how you came out also.
Scott B.
1951 F1
239 Flathead V8 3 on the tree
Scott B.
1951 F1
239 Flathead V8 3 on the tree
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From: Grand Blanc
Checked the wiring and connections last night from the generator to the Voltage regulator. Every thing looks good. Checked for voltage with (VOM and test lite) at the armeture on the generator. Nothing. Battery was 12.6 volts. Drove the truck on the E-way for 20 miles with lights of. Tested battery after the drive. Battery was 11.3 volts. Looks like I'll be taking to the shop that rebuilt my generator Monday, to see what they find.
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From: Kansas City, Mo
1950ford
After driving 20 miles, I would be surprised if the battery read 11.3 VDC. I would think it to be a lower VDC if it's not charging. Someone in another thread said the system doesn't charge at idle RPM. So after the trip and idle before shut down a loss of 1.3 VDC doesn't seem to be abnormal. Don't be surprised if it's ok. I'm sure others will give more info on the subject. Dump the gen and go to a Alternator system. You will need it when you add more elect load. Have a great day,chuck
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A quick test of the generator can be performed by disconnecting the generator Armature and Field wires from the regulator and connecting them together and crank up the truck.
The generator will be unregulated (armature wire connected to the field wire), but at idle will only produce a few volts (5 - 10 v) between the armature wire and ground casing of the generator (using a volt meter). Dont run it too long like this, but if you see any voltage, your generator is working.
If the engine is running at around 1500 rpm, the voltage at the battery terminal (or armature wire) should be around 14.5 volts. The battery, fully charged, should be around 12.2 volts.
It sounds like you arent charging. Good luck.
Ole' Green
The generator will be unregulated (armature wire connected to the field wire), but at idle will only produce a few volts (5 - 10 v) between the armature wire and ground casing of the generator (using a volt meter). Dont run it too long like this, but if you see any voltage, your generator is working.
If the engine is running at around 1500 rpm, the voltage at the battery terminal (or armature wire) should be around 14.5 volts. The battery, fully charged, should be around 12.2 volts.
It sounds like you arent charging. Good luck.
Ole' Green
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