mounting a generator
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Senior User
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From: Covington, Ga.
mounting a generator
I was hoping I could get some opinions on mounting a generator in the bed of my f350. I found a deal I could not refuse on a generator strong enough to power my 220v lincoln mig. Since the plug for the 220v model is not standard in most homes I want to mount my generator in the truck so I can weld anywhere I may need to. I will have to mount the generator in the center of the bed ( to access the outlets on one side and the pull start on the other ) and I definately want it pushed up next to the cab side bed wall. I would like to hear some tried and true ideas for a safe and secure mount. Thanks in advance.
Russ
Russ
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
220 (actually 234V) is very common in homes. It's split phase and measures 117V between the hots & neutral, and 234 between the two hots. The genny should be the same.
To answer your question, I'd use the same technique used for mounting a 5'er hitch. X-member across the frame, the bolts through the bed. Doubt it would go anywhere that way. I'm sure you could fab (or have fab'ed) a bracket to get it done...
Joe
To answer your question, I'd use the same technique used for mounting a 5'er hitch. X-member across the frame, the bolts through the bed. Doubt it would go anywhere that way. I'm sure you could fab (or have fab'ed) a bracket to get it done...
Joe
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: La La Land
Use Grade 8 bolts for anything that is mission-critical. They're made of much higher strength steel. I'd use the largest diameter bolts that will fit through the generator's mounting holes.
Always make sure that at least three threads are showing are showing after the nut is tightened. The use of a good LocTite compound will assure the nuts don't vibrate loose. I don't trust lock washers, but I always try to use good flat washers (also Grade 8) to spread the loading.
Pop
Always make sure that at least three threads are showing are showing after the nut is tightened. The use of a good LocTite compound will assure the nuts don't vibrate loose. I don't trust lock washers, but I always try to use good flat washers (also Grade 8) to spread the loading.
Pop
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2003
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Pop got you covered! There are already holes in the frame that you can build a bracket for. You can then weld/bold your generator to that. Take a look in your bed and how many bolts are there. Mine only has the rear 2, and my buddies long box has all 6.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2006
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From: Milroy, PA
I would be happier for stainless bolts myself, especially if your in a salt on the roads area. But thats my .02 I hate trying to mess with rusted fast bolt/ nut combos on the bottom of a truck. Stainless is for me.
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From: Covington, Ga.
thanks for all your help everyone I am going to try and put this thing together this weekend. I shouldn't have any issues with rust due to salted roads, I live in Ga. and we can't even get any rain much less snow. Our rainfall deficit is over 10 inches. Thanks for all of your replies.
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From: Bradenton FL
Originally Posted by Izzy351
220 (actually 234V) is very common in homes. It's split phase and measures 117V between the hots & neutral, and 234 between the two hots. The genny should be the same.
To answer your question, I'd use the same technique used for mounting a 5'er hitch. X-member across the frame, the bolts through the bed. Doubt it would go anywhere that way. I'm sure you could fab (or have fab'ed) a bracket to get it done...
Joe
To answer your question, I'd use the same technique used for mounting a 5'er hitch. X-member across the frame, the bolts through the bed. Doubt it would go anywhere that way. I'm sure you could fab (or have fab'ed) a bracket to get it done...
Joe
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From: Covington, Ga.
well I built an extension cord ($60) to convert the generators output to the plug my welder needs so all is ok there. And I think I have decided on my plan for mounting and security. I will take two pieces of angle iron and mount them the full width of the bed. Once I figure out how and where to get the angle iron mounted nice and square I will go back and weld some pieces to it that will allow me to put a padlock through them and around the generators frame. I am currently trying to find some material (rubber) that I can put underneath the generator to help keep some of the vibration out of the trucks bed. At least that is the plan for now.. Comments?
For all you electrical guru's that replied earlier ...
Will I need to set up a grounding rod (from generator to ground) to be able to weld safely?
If not will the generator/ welder cause any damage to my trucks electrical system by grounding through the generator frame into the trucks bed?
Thanks for the wisdom.
Russ
For all you electrical guru's that replied earlier ...
Will I need to set up a grounding rod (from generator to ground) to be able to weld safely?
If not will the generator/ welder cause any damage to my trucks electrical system by grounding through the generator frame into the trucks bed?
Thanks for the wisdom.
Russ
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
EDIT:
From the NEC:
"Portable generators are covered in Section 250.34 Portable and Vehicle-Mounted Generators. This section allows the generator or vehicle frame to serve as the grounding electrode when:
(1) The generator supplies only equipment mounted on the generator, cord-and-plug-connected equipment through receptacles mounted on the generator, or both, and
(2) The non–current-carrying metal parts of equipment and the equipment grounding conductor terminals of the receptacles are bonded to the generator frame."
Ground rods are unneccesary in your case...
From the NEC:
"Portable generators are covered in Section 250.34 Portable and Vehicle-Mounted Generators. This section allows the generator or vehicle frame to serve as the grounding electrode when:
(1) The generator supplies only equipment mounted on the generator, cord-and-plug-connected equipment through receptacles mounted on the generator, or both, and
(2) The non–current-carrying metal parts of equipment and the equipment grounding conductor terminals of the receptacles are bonded to the generator frame."
Ground rods are unneccesary in your case...
Last edited by Izzy351; Jul 1, 2007 at 03:23 PM.
Posting Guru
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From: Bradenton FL
Izzy info is correct, i would also avoid bonding the generators frame all together to the truck frame, in case of a "ground fault" through the bond, it could reach the battery/electrical system of the truck and cause problems.
Is the welder a DC welder, how many watt generator do you have, and or have you dry run this combo to make sure you get the watts you need to run the welder?
Is the welder a DC welder, how many watt generator do you have, and or have you dry run this combo to make sure you get the watts you need to run the welder?
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What Izzy said is indisputable fact, it comes straight from code, however, it is not quite so simple. It needs to be determined if Whit350's generator is "neutral grounded" or not. I would say a simple way to deterimine the requirements would to look for a ground terminal. If the generator has one, it has one for a reason and should be used. Benny is also correct, it shouldn't be grounded to the frame. Rubber tires are insulators and do not provide a path to the true ground. All that would happen is the stray voltage would feed into the vehicles electrical system and wreak havock. That being said, even if it has a preinstalled grounding post, it will probably work fine without being grounded. The problem is that the ground system is for the event something goes wrong, not for when everything is hunky dory.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
...and if you're working on a job site or someplace where OSHA might pop in, you'd have to look at applicable local codes, too. But yes, the neutral bonding issue needs to be checked. Sometimes there'll be a schematic on the genny that shows it. It's never easy -- my brother is an electrician, and I'm always bugging him about this or that. I swear, it's like they change the code annually just to be a PITA...
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From: Covington, Ga.
The generator is a Generac 5500xl (5500 watts) and the welder is a 220v Lincoln Power Mig 180T. I checked the voltage from the generator through the extension cord I made and got 248v at the receptacle for the welder. I have not dry run the setup yet (that is for tomorrow) with the welder. The generator does have an external grounding post (on its frame). I am not much of an electrician or a welder either for that matter, but I do need to get this rig setup right so that I can do light to medium duty welding on site. got to make some $$$ to help make the payments on my new truck. Thanks for all the help.
Russ
Russ