[updated:LAST EDITED ON 08-Nov-02 AT 08:50 PM (EST)]I have a 1985 F-150 which is in mint condition & has a low mileage 302EFI motor which will not pull a wet noodle out of a baby's behind. I have a 351EFI motor from an 88 truck which I am about ready to build with an Eagle 408 stroker kit. I only want an engine for towing. Anyone out there done anything like this? Right now I plan on using the stock heads with some minor porting. I have done research on the GT-40P heads and becuase of the plug angle, no one makes headers for this application. This seems like a resonable way to go as it should be a relatively straight forward conversion aside from getting a custom chip.

 

Stroke is torque. 4.000,4.100, 4.170 strokes are available. Better check your compression ratio. GT40P heads, since they are for a 302, might raise your compression to high.

 

Umm, you're using ported stock heads, not 'P' heads right? or did I misread something?

The key thing will be to make sure you're using a cam that will keep the power range down where you want it. Most stroker kits I've done have been for Stangs that are revving to 6500 or better, so my choice in cams for you wouldn't be too useful.
With the ported stock heads you should be okay on compression as long as your kit has stock compression pistons. You won't be getting the full potential of your stroker, but you'll be better off than stock.
Also make sure your intake has nice long straight runners that help with making torque, and not something with itty-bitty short runners.

Good luck.

 

Welcome to FTE!
What is it you're planning to tow? The limiting factor is not the engine but the truck it's in. For light duty towing, which is really all the F-150 is safe for, I would think your current engine is fine. I'm not trying to discourage youfrom building a good strong 351, but if you plan to do serious towing your truck isn't built for it.
Figure out what the GVW will be and go from there.
BTW, there is a forum dedicated to towing issues. Just scroll down the list. It's near the bottom.

 

i have a 347 5.0 stroker approaching 70,000 miles. oil consumption is growing due to the 1/16" rings that the srokers use. forget the p heads, stick with e7te heads and have a decent valve job done. rv came with 250-260derees duration and 480 to 512 lift should put you in the ballpark for a decent moter for towing.

 

Stroker's do provide you with a lot more torque, but there are many set backs to having a stroker, like compression issues, and the inability to rev higher, due to longer stroke, I am only 16, but have researched the same thing.

1994 Bronco XLT 5.8W 4X4

 

Umm, no. Your research isn't complete.

First off, compression is very much up to you in your choice of heads and pistons. The motor (317) for my GT is running at roughly 8.7-8.8:1, because it's gettin' a blower shortly. My friends 331 is like 11.5:1, and revs to friggin' 7,000 RPM's!! It also makes 537 rear wheel horsies N/A!
My LX will be gettin' a 331 with roughly 9.5:1 or 10:1 compression because it is race only and will have a 100+ shot of nitrous.

It's all about what you want to do, and how you build your motor. If you want calm, go for calm. If you want radical, go radical.
The 347 has gotten a bad reputation as being an oil burner, but this is due to the fact that most early and modern kits featured pistons with their rings intercepting the wrist pin. Bad thing. The new kits from CHP and other major suppliers provide pistons whose rings do NOT intersect the wrist pins, and thus eliminate the oil burning problem.
In my opinion, 331 is plenty big for a 302, it provides a good piston/rod ratio, and adds an extra 30 cubes.

 

Here's a stroker for you. Streetable too.

http://www.frontiernet.net/~tmeyer/432.html

 

Strange looking rockers on that engine. I suppose they were required because the ports were so wide that they had to move the pushrod holes over to the side. (Do Cleveland heads have canted valves because they relocated the rockers and pushrods?)

That's a huge stroke - 4.17" - in a Windsor. Combine that stroker with roller cam and fuel injection and you'd have an engine. :-)

 

I'd like to build a bottom end like that engine and put the Arao (www.araoengineering.com)
4-valve per cylinder heads on with the fuel injection.

Tim

www.tmeyerinc.com

 

After doing some additional homework on this project. The electronics really give it the kiss of death. 87-93 pickups used a speed-density system which means you (basically) cant modify the engine unless you convert it to mass-air. Ford makes a kit for this, but not for 1985-1986 trucks, you have to go to Best Products in Michigan for that & buy a 5.0 Mustang computer. I am leaving alot out but it ends up being expensive & alot of trouble. As far as F-150 being "light-duty" for towing, I agree but I thought that the F-150/F-250 shared the same frame & you could probably just "beef-up" the F-150 springs. Anyways what started out seeming to be a good idea sure went downhill quick. Now I just need to find someone who has a "thing" for a 1985 F-150 Lariet XLT in museum quality condition. Oh, also have a 1987 351EFI block is done & bored .030 & bagged (engine is complete). Wonder what the payments on the new 5.4 3-valve would be?

 

Or you just forego the gas engines and step up to a Powerstroke.

Actually, there's a lot of modded SD trucks out there, and their owners are more than willing to argue that point to the death. All you really need, assuming you don't want to mess with your truck weekly, is build your motor the way you want, or at least know what you want to build and not change your mind, then order a custom burned chip for that application.
End of story, no going to mass air, no nothing extra to add beyond your choice mods.

 

 

You cannot just put strong springs in an F-150 and tow like an F-250. MANY things come into play when determining how much weight a truck can pull. Brakes, wheels/tires, frame, sway bars, springs, axles, gears, engine, transmission, driveshafts, etc etc. If you put a strong motor in there, you also have to consider if your tranny can take it. The axles are no problem. However, with a new engine you cant pull more weight, but you can pull what you pull now, better. The engine will pull the weight, but the other equipment will be the snag.

 

i would really base my engine build off of how you are going to pull if it aint much i would not worry about drive train promblems but if you are going to pull real good heavy loads you might want to rethink your Idea.If anything you be able to put on a show breaking u joints.drive like you got sense and you should not have any problems.just a thought