383 or 408?
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 1
From: Elyria, OH
383 or 408?
Im in the process of converting my truck to a dually. Its a 95 f250. I have a mildly built 351w thats been bored .040 over. Ive been contemplating on building a stroker motor from the original roller i pulled from the truck. Looking for torque for towing. Ive been finding kits for the 383 and the 408, but i cannot decide if its worth building a beast of an engine for a truck that well, gets used as a truck. I am not wanting to swap in a 460. I like my 351s. Currently have 7 of them in various pick ups.
I know I'll need a MAF swap.... I've also read that a 460 computer could run a stroker.
I need to know what years to get a computer from and what wiring I'll need from the donor. I will be swapping from the e4od to a zf s-42 i have sitting around.
Basically I'm looking for a parts list heads, cam, upper and lower intakes fuel pump, injectors etc.
I'm just in the planning stages. Haven't decided if I'm going to build this engine yet.
I know I'll need a MAF swap.... I've also read that a 460 computer could run a stroker.
I need to know what years to get a computer from and what wiring I'll need from the donor. I will be swapping from the e4od to a zf s-42 i have sitting around.
Basically I'm looking for a parts list heads, cam, upper and lower intakes fuel pump, injectors etc.
I'm just in the planning stages. Haven't decided if I'm going to build this engine yet.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,033
Likes: 0
If the price difference isn't that much more I'd go ahead and do the 408, the few extra cubes you get will give you that much more torque to work with once you put it together with all the other goodies you could want.
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 1
From: Elyria, OH
Yeah i meant 393. Typo on my part. So how far can i go with a 460 pcm and 24lb injectors on a 408? The kits are about the same price. Ill have to get a quote on machine work and see how much that will be. Will afr 205 be big enough on a 408 or should i be looking into a different aluminum head? Im lost on camshaft choices here conanski so i was hoping you would have some input
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
The block machine work will dictate what displacement you end up with, you can only do the smaller displacement if your block doesn't need to be bored out but that's unlikely so chances are you'll be building a 400 something anyway.
If you want it to run on a stock SD computer then you aren't trying to make 500hp so forget about monster heads like the 205, instead use something like a 185 with a "low rpm" cam like an XE265 or 270 to maximize torque and keep HP at manageable levels.. like 300-350.
If you want it to run on a stock SD computer then you aren't trying to make 500hp so forget about monster heads like the 205, instead use something like a 185 with a "low rpm" cam like an XE265 or 270 to maximize torque and keep HP at manageable levels.. like 300-350.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 555
Likes: 0
Trending Topics
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
Some great dialog with Woody from Fordstrokers.com: 393 vs 408 vs 418
Question:
Woody can you be more specific on the downside Of the 393?
Answer:
The very common and typical 393 is 3.850 crank, 5.956 rod 1.600 piston. The 393 cranks are typically 4-8 lbs heavier than a 408+, the 393's crank will have a 2.311 rod journal 99% of the time, this lends to the added weight of the crank, larger bearing that is narrower to boot. Piston is usually heavy, .912 pin.
The 408+ cranks lose the crank weight in part due to the wider and smaller 2.100 chevy journals. 6.200 rod (ridiculous amounts of these rods available) 1.280 compression height piston on the typical 408, lighter, .927 pin. Internal ready balance 4" inch stroke cranks etc..
If you are buying NEW the 393 makes little sense, the 393 is GREAT when you simply need a 300 dollar cast 3.850 to build your 393, thats a no brainer.
Also dont fall into one of those older cast 3.850 cranks that have nowhere near enough front counterweight and it needs slugs of mallory metal in a CAST crank to balance 28oz. Got more precious metal tungsten in the crank than it costs.
This comes from a guy with tons of experience..
Question:
Woody can you be more specific on the downside Of the 393?
Answer:
The very common and typical 393 is 3.850 crank, 5.956 rod 1.600 piston. The 393 cranks are typically 4-8 lbs heavier than a 408+, the 393's crank will have a 2.311 rod journal 99% of the time, this lends to the added weight of the crank, larger bearing that is narrower to boot. Piston is usually heavy, .912 pin.
The 408+ cranks lose the crank weight in part due to the wider and smaller 2.100 chevy journals. 6.200 rod (ridiculous amounts of these rods available) 1.280 compression height piston on the typical 408, lighter, .927 pin. Internal ready balance 4" inch stroke cranks etc..
If you are buying NEW the 393 makes little sense, the 393 is GREAT when you simply need a 300 dollar cast 3.850 to build your 393, thats a no brainer.
Also dont fall into one of those older cast 3.850 cranks that have nowhere near enough front counterweight and it needs slugs of mallory metal in a CAST crank to balance 28oz. Got more precious metal tungsten in the crank than it costs.
This comes from a guy with tons of experience..
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 1
From: Elyria, OH
Im assuming that the stock pump will not be enough on the fuel side. Is there a pump that i can put in the fdm? I see a lot of talk about a 255 lph pump but was not sure that it would fit in the housing
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 5,776
Likes: 443
the stock fuel pumps are adequate for quite a bit of mods. remember, they're good enough for mildly built 460's.
fuel demand is an exponential function in relation to rpm...since we are limited with our rpm, to achieve our torque goals (and the rev limit of ~5500ish), the fuel requirements are not the same as a similar build that is put into a race car or high hp street machine.
all that aside, it is a very, very! good idea to run both wideband and fuel pressure gauges when building something that is modified (even stock). the fuel pressure gauge and/or wideband will tell you if either a pump is weak or inadequate. I wouldn't even bother thinking about the pumps unless you can deem them otherwise.
I also suggest bumping the compression of your build to 10.5-11:1 (11:1 with aluminum heads). I always go this route, and there will be plenty of people who like to run 87 "cuz its cheaper" but much of that extra cost is made up with added fuel economy, the smile of extra hp/tq, and an excellent/responsive pedal feel @ part throttle.
fuel demand is an exponential function in relation to rpm...since we are limited with our rpm, to achieve our torque goals (and the rev limit of ~5500ish), the fuel requirements are not the same as a similar build that is put into a race car or high hp street machine.
all that aside, it is a very, very! good idea to run both wideband and fuel pressure gauges when building something that is modified (even stock). the fuel pressure gauge and/or wideband will tell you if either a pump is weak or inadequate. I wouldn't even bother thinking about the pumps unless you can deem them otherwise.
I also suggest bumping the compression of your build to 10.5-11:1 (11:1 with aluminum heads). I always go this route, and there will be plenty of people who like to run 87 "cuz its cheaper" but much of that extra cost is made up with added fuel economy, the smile of extra hp/tq, and an excellent/responsive pedal feel @ part throttle.
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 1
From: Elyria, OH
the stock fuel pumps are adequate for quite a bit of mods. remember, they're good enough for mildly built 460's.
fuel demand is an exponential function in relation to rpm...since we are limited with our rpm, to achieve our torque goals (and the rev limit of ~5500ish), the fuel requirements are not the same as a similar build that is put into a race car or high hp street machine.
all that aside, it is a very, very! good idea to run both wideband and fuel pressure gauges when building something that is modified (even stock). the fuel pressure gauge and/or wideband will tell you if either a pump is weak or inadequate. I wouldn't even bother thinking about the pumps unless you can deem them otherwise.
I also suggest bumping the compression of your build to 10.5-11:1 (11:1 with aluminum heads). I always go this route, and there will be plenty of people who like to run 87 "cuz its cheaper" but much of that extra cost is made up with added fuel economy, the smile of extra hp/tq, and an excellent/responsive pedal feel @ part throttle.
fuel demand is an exponential function in relation to rpm...since we are limited with our rpm, to achieve our torque goals (and the rev limit of ~5500ish), the fuel requirements are not the same as a similar build that is put into a race car or high hp street machine.
all that aside, it is a very, very! good idea to run both wideband and fuel pressure gauges when building something that is modified (even stock). the fuel pressure gauge and/or wideband will tell you if either a pump is weak or inadequate. I wouldn't even bother thinking about the pumps unless you can deem them otherwise.
I also suggest bumping the compression of your build to 10.5-11:1 (11:1 with aluminum heads). I always go this route, and there will be plenty of people who like to run 87 "cuz its cheaper" but much of that extra cost is made up with added fuel economy, the smile of extra hp/tq, and an excellent/responsive pedal feel @ part throttle.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 5,776
Likes: 443
The heads come with different combustion chamber sizes, so you'll have to match which ones get you closest to your desired compression ratio in relation to the Pistons you choose.
12357-SF-F408W - Ford 408W Flat Top -4.0cc Street Fighter Engine Kit
scroll down and you'll see the compression chart. Also that's a pretty good site for homework, and they have great prices on short blocks and fair - good prices on rotating assemblies.
12357-SF-F408W - Ford 408W Flat Top -4.0cc Street Fighter Engine Kit
scroll down and you'll see the compression chart. Also that's a pretty good site for homework, and they have great prices on short blocks and fair - good prices on rotating assemblies.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
baddad457
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
11
May 5, 2013 03:44 PM
5004man
Big Block V8 - 385 Series (6.1/370, 7.0/429, 7.5/460)
73
Jan 13, 2010 11:28 AM
Alvin in AZ
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
10
Dec 4, 2009 09:06 PM
Ibuildembig
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
14
Sep 11, 2007 06:19 PM