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I don't want to make excuses but I gotta get up within 5 hours for another 12 hour patrol day. My shop dvd is in my patrol car as I have been doing some AE baseline # research and looking up a summer minor romp issue. IIRC the anti-drainback check valve is not in the HPOP but may require HPOP removal to get at as that info is not at my fingertips. I cannot say for sure right now as I have not had this problem. I don't want to talk out the side of my face, or ****.
D* sent you a picture of the check ball in the head.
A little clarification: The HPOP is always fed from the reservoir but the reservoir is fed from the Check ball valve in the head on initial and cold starts.
Originally Posted by Service Manual
The lubrication system is comprised of a low-pressure system and a high-pressure system. The low-pressure system provides primary engine lubrication while the high-pressure system provides the hydraulic pressure required to actuate the fuel injectors.
The low-pressure lubricating system draws oil from the engine oil pan (6675) through the oil pump screen cover and tube (6622) into the oil inlet passage in the front cover. The gerotor oil pump then pumps the oil back out through the outlet passage in the front cover. The oil separates into two paths.
One flow path sends oil into the high-pressure pump reservoir initial fill gallery (integral to the cylinder block) and through the anti-drainback check ball. During cold start the oil feeds in two directions from the anti-drainback check ball. One feed leaves the check ball and enters the front cover. From there it enters the high-pressure oil reservoir. The second feed exits the check ball and enters the left bank valve lifter oil gallery.
After leaving the front cover outlet passage, the second oil path sends the oil through the oil cooler and filter assembly. Once inside the filter housing, the oil filter bypass valve may open to vent excess pressure and oil back into the oil pan. After the oil has been circulated through the oil filter, the oil feed then enters the main oil gallery (integral to the cylinder block). Once in the main oil gallery, the oil is routed to the five crankshaft main bearings (6333) through five drilled and machined feed galleries (integral to the cylinder block). The five camshaft bearings receive the oil feed through five vertically drilled and machined feed galleries connected to the main bearing feed galleries. The front main bearing feed gallery also supplies oil to the right bank valve lifter oil gallery through a vertically drilled and machined oil feed gallery (integral to the cylinder block). The rear main bearing oil feed gallery also supplies oil to the turbocharger assembly through a vertically drilled and machined oil feed gallery (integral to the cylinder block).
Pressurized oil entering the turbocharger assembly is utilized to lubricate the compressor/turbine shaft. The oil drains back through the turbocharger mounting pedestal and back into the oil pan. The valve lifter oil gallery supplies pressurized oil to the valve tappets and to the piston cooling oil jets. Oil from the valve tappets is routed upward to the cylinder head valve train through hollow push rods (6565). Once in the cylinder head, the oil drains back to the oil pan through return ports at each end of the cylinder head
So if it is stuck open partially the reservoir drains slowly while sitting and not enough oil gets to the reservoir to fill it during starting. Once the chack ball closes the reservoir is fed filtered oil through a stand pipe in the reservoir.
So to get to it, I have to remove the HPOP correct? And that is basically the 6 bolts from the top and replacing the gasket. Correct again? Then I can remove the valve and probably just clean it up and reinstall??
I have seen people claim to be able to get it out without removing the HPOP but if it is true they are way more nimble than me and it is the first 3 steps for the engine assembly.
yep, looking like I'll be pulling the pump. Should I be planning on replacng the valve and getting one from Ford or should I just be able to clean, lube and reassemble. Apparently I'll probably have to get the gasket from Ford, so since I'll be there, should I just order the part?
I would try an international dealer or powerstroke shop before a local ford dealer on the gasket, you will probably have to cal Bob at powerstrokeshop to find the part though.
Cleaning usually fixes the problem with the check ball but you never know until it is out if the ball is damaged or the spring is broken so it may be nice to have a new one handy.
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