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Just so LeRoy doesn't wear out his fingers going back and forth
So Clint will be stopping by this afternoon, he can take pics of some of the things in question and post them up...the dizzy as well as the pistons.
I'd CC the piston dish, but I don't have the engine on a stand where I roll it flat. Hopefully Clint's pics will tell a good story.
Regarding some things:
We won't be decking the block, so we should fall into the 9:1 CR range with the D0VE heads...that's a good CR to run with the Summit cam.
I'll be placing the order though Summit tomorrow somtime, parts should be here early next week...everything I looked at was in stock the other day.
SO let's use this thread to discuss the actual reassembly of the engine, parts choices we may want to change.
I don't think with the RPM's we'll be running there will be much benefit to bowl blending the heads, from the flow numbers on the heads (stock) and with the exhaust bump smoothed out, we should easily flow enough air to suuport our cam choice.
Once the valves are out, we can still look at the bowls and see if any work is needed there...we may want to touch them up a bit, but we'll see when we get there.
OKay, so I pulled one intake and exhaust valve and took a look.
As far as the intake ports, since they're a straight shot to the valve, just a little casting flash removal and profiling if the valve guide is all that's needed.
The exhaust ports will take some more time to grind out the casting behind the guide, then polish the port nice and shint and we'll be in business.
Just FYI, but there's plenty of valve face to grind both the valves I pulled, I need to get the carbon off the seats to see what they look like...
Since these heads are probably "pre-unleaded" heads, does anyone know if the seats are hardened or not?
Even if they're not, I don't think it'll cause us an issue with the amount of miles we'll put on it, I ran my old 235 for 12-15K miles with out an issue on unleaded.
I need to check with Summit for spring pressures for the cam, but will most likely use a COMP brand for longevity.
Also, I looked over the ports again...little bit closer...cleaning up the areas behind the seat and the short side on the exhaust ports, plus the exhaust port bump, looks to be the ticket. There's a few places to port and straighten out the airpath, kinda basic stuff that'll pickup some flow without losing velocity.
I notice that the intake ports below the vlave guide on the inlet side have a "profile" somewhat casted in, we;ll just folloow those line up to the top of the guide and keep the same port angle relationship, I'm guessing Ford put that in to aid in some swirl in the Combustion Chambers, so we can just blend it in and it should help quite a bit too.
Well, I have the heads taken apart, we'll need to get new studs as some threads got messed up...I did do some port work on noe intake and one exhaust port. I need to get some flap disc to polish the exhaust ports and finsh it off, then just intake match for the gasket and Perfromer.
I think when I finish these two up, I'll take them in and get those tow ports flowed as well as two untouched, just so we can see a comparison, and get an idea if we need to take any more meet out...if we do, it'd only be on the exhaust side as I think the intake side is in pretty good shape.
I did just a minor profiling on the intake guide to match the factory casted profiling leading into the boss...I don't think we need to go much further.
When Clint gets here he can take some pics of the rough work and post them up.
OKay, it's getting on to Beer-thirty and I'm done for the day
PS....Looks like it will take about 2 hours to do one chamber, I spent 1.5 hours to get it rouged in...just need maybe 10-15 minutes more, then polish the combustion chambers.
I'll start doing one chamber per day, maybe two if I'm bored, to get these wrapped up...and leave at least one chamber for a GTG so you guys can see a before and after shot first hand.
PS...all the Valve Guides appears to be pretty good....very little rocking action with the valves, I think we'll be fine as-is.
What kind of distributor are we looking at? Does it have any built in mechanism you can find that manages the spark advance curve? That is what the TFI module does (assuming I'm not completely talking out of my a##).
Just another update after Beer-Thirty, decided to go back whilel I was dirty and full of cast ironm shaving and started roughing out the rest of the exhaust ports on the one head.
My old HF stone started cmoing apart so had to quit fr the day, but will finish them up this weekend.
Now I realize why I haven't ported a set of heads in two years....it's fun to start, but dirty, grimey work to complete.
I got some dizzy know-how. I didnt pull off the cap last time I was there. Could we use a cheap GM module with it to save $, or will the rule people not like an ignition mod?
I'm not sure Dale, heck, until yesterday I thought it was "HEI".
Clint took off a bit ago on his ways to Dan, he'll probably stay at the FlyINg J, but when he get a chance he'll post the picks of the port work and the pistons.
Hey Dale, if you know these 460 heads, maybe you can swng by this weekend to look them over and give me an experienced eye on my work.
I'm interested in what you guys are going to choose. I have actually had really good luck with the ignitor drop ins..... Steady dwell, cheap, plenty of juice and no points to bounce.
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