New engine build thread:)
Hotshot
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 12,170
Likes: 5
From: The hills of No. Calif.
Mike, look at the Duraspark module you have. Where the wies come out of the module, there's a colored plastic grommet. These are color coded for different applications, what we want is the blue grommet which is the best all-around performance module. I have a couple of them, I keep them under the seat of my truck for spares since it's the only thing I have on the road right now with DS ignition so no worries if yours isn't a blue grommet module. (And they're cheap, like 25 bucks new...)
Mike S...thanks for stopping by. Haven't seen you around these parts for a while. Does this mean you've got some time freed up to get involved with the chapter again...?
Mike S...thanks for stopping by. Haven't seen you around these parts for a while. Does this mean you've got some time freed up to get involved with the chapter again...?
Last edited by TigerDan; Jun 2, 2007 at 09:56 AM.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,341
Likes: 5
From: Sacramento
I got the dizzy all lubed up, changed to light centrifugal adv springs I had been saving for a special occasion, flipped the max advance to the 13 from 18. The number is the total cent. advance it'll give, but multiply by 2. This one will make it 26*, and with an initial(idle setting of the dizzy) of 10*, we'll be pretty nice at 36* total. I also put on a reman vac advance can that I already adjusted to hit real quick. Most old Fords have an adjustable advance, it just takes a 1/8" allen wrench. Turn clockwise(like screwing it in) to lessen the spring pressure & the vac advance comes in sooner. Go too far & it'll max out, no biggie, but most of the time maxed out will make it ping. Go to max, then back it out 1 turn. Test drive with a heavy pedal in high gear, try to load it up & listen for the pinging.
Mike has the head grinding under way, they're gonna flow real nice!
Mike has the head grinding under way, they're gonna flow real nice!
Last edited by nevrenufhp; Jun 3, 2007 at 10:49 PM.
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,172
Likes: 1
From: Oakdale,Ca.
Speaking of the heads, I went hog-**** wild after you left....really attacked the exhaust ports big time... and have the 2nhd head abuot 80-905 done.
I'll pick up a flapper and do some polishing tomorrow...
Damn, just couldn't bear the thought of them things sittng there.
As a side note, I think these heads are going to make some power for us, I went into the valve gauide on the exhaust ports, and anngled to the floor.
I raised the exhasut ports roof a bit and took some of the floor down as well.
Final porting will be quick, some polishing and gasket matching to the intake...i/e the easy stuff.
Plan is to deliver the shortblock to Dan and the rear I have, then when the heads come back from the shop, just button it up and go from there.
Yes,
we'll be asking for money soon
I'll pick up a flapper and do some polishing tomorrow...
Damn, just couldn't bear the thought of them things sittng there.
As a side note, I think these heads are going to make some power for us, I went into the valve gauide on the exhaust ports, and anngled to the floor.
I raised the exhasut ports roof a bit and took some of the floor down as well.
Final porting will be quick, some polishing and gasket matching to the intake...i/e the easy stuff.
Plan is to deliver the shortblock to Dan and the rear I have, then when the heads come back from the shop, just button it up and go from there.
Yes,
we'll be asking for money soon
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,231
Likes: 1
From: Near Fresno, California
Here are some pictures showing the deep dish pistons, and the heads. If someone has a better pictures please send them to me. I need a more professional camera to capture the changes Mike is making.
The new D0VE head is on the left, the right is the original D3VE head. The D0 head has a 20cc smaller combustion chamber.
Sorry the pictures are not better.
The new D0VE head is on the left, the right is the original D3VE head. The D0 head has a 20cc smaller combustion chamber.
Sorry the pictures are not better.
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,172
Likes: 1
From: Oakdale,Ca.
I'm about done with the heads, just finished all but the polishing and gasket matching, before I take them into the machine shop, I'll beg, borrow or steal a camera for some pics and send them over to you.
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,172
Likes: 1
From: Oakdale,Ca.
Just to point out a few differences between the heads....
If you guys look at the head quench, you'll see the D0'd intake vale sitting much closer to it, notice how far away the D3 intake valve is from the quench.
There's gotta be several CC's in that extra material, I'll lug over a D3 head and see if I can soprt anythying else when they are side by side.
Also, the exhaust port shape is a bit different as well as the "humps" casted in.
If you guys look at the head quench, you'll see the D0'd intake vale sitting much closer to it, notice how far away the D3 intake valve is from the quench.
There's gotta be several CC's in that extra material, I'll lug over a D3 head and see if I can soprt anythying else when they are side by side.
Also, the exhaust port shape is a bit different as well as the "humps" casted in.
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,172
Likes: 1
From: Oakdale,Ca.
Okay, in the interest of keeping one thread...updates for the work on installing the cam as well as headwork, are in seperate threads, when Dan get's back maybe he can sticky them, or merge them for us...but to keep things in one thread...do we want to run a Mechanical fuel pump or electric?
If mechanical, then I need to find the missing peice for the eccentric, if electric I won't need it and just put the fuel pump block off plate on...
I'm just wondering of electric might be better and wire it in with a cut off switch.
Thoughts?
If mechanical, then I need to find the missing peice for the eccentric, if electric I won't need it and just put the fuel pump block off plate on...
I'm just wondering of electric might be better and wire it in with a cut off switch.
Thoughts?
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,172
Likes: 1
From: Oakdale,Ca.
Originally Posted by TigerDan
Mike, look at the Duraspark module you have. Where the wies come out of the module, there's a colored plastic grommet. These are color coded for different applications, what we want is the blue grommet which is the best all-around performance module. I have a couple of them, I keep them under the seat of my truck for spares since it's the only thing I have on the road right now with DS ignition so no worries if yours isn't a blue grommet module. (And they're cheap, like 25 bucks new...)
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,231
Likes: 1
From: Near Fresno, California
"If mechanical, then I need to find the missing peice for the eccentric, if electric I won't need it and just put the fuel pump block off plate on...
I'm just wondering of electric might be better and wire it in with a cut off switch."
I have been thinking the same thing - there are advantages to the electric, if we can mount it someplace where it will not be damaged nor get packed with water. Also, you have to be careful not to get a electric pump used in an EFI system - we need only about 10 pounds pressure, they produce around 50.
If we do this I do want to use steel lines as much as possible - hose works, but this is a safety thing.
Anybody know of any reason why we shouldn't go electric?
I'm just wondering of electric might be better and wire it in with a cut off switch."
I have been thinking the same thing - there are advantages to the electric, if we can mount it someplace where it will not be damaged nor get packed with water. Also, you have to be careful not to get a electric pump used in an EFI system - we need only about 10 pounds pressure, they produce around 50.
If we do this I do want to use steel lines as much as possible - hose works, but this is a safety thing.
Anybody know of any reason why we shouldn't go electric?
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,172
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From: Oakdale,Ca.
I've a few electric SW pumps that would work fine with carbs, I just need to put some new diaphrams in them...pretty sure NAPA still sells a kit with the contact points and diaphram. Good thing about these is we won't need a relay as current draw is just a few amps...I used to have one on my BBC and it kept up with it fine, so should feed the 460 as well.
As long as we mount the pump real close to the tank, it'll do fine pushing the fuel.
Timing cover won't be here until Monday at the earliest, so gives me time to still look for the part...I think I'll see if I can find one and put it in anways before I put the cover on...just in case.
As long as we mount the pump real close to the tank, it'll do fine pushing the fuel.
Timing cover won't be here until Monday at the earliest, so gives me time to still look for the part...I think I'll see if I can find one and put it in anways before I put the cover on...just in case.
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,172
Likes: 1
From: Oakdale,Ca.
I found a new set of valve springs on ebay... COMP CAMS 926's, for 78 shipped. They'll match the Summit cam pretty well, and save us 40-50 bucks over buying the Crane springs through Summit.
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,172
Likes: 1
From: Oakdale,Ca.
No on the flow...I took them in for some work earlier this week...gonna grab'em back though and probably do the work on them here...you may have missed an earlier post, but just after you left I started on them again, and couldn't stop
Consider them suckers "DONE" for porting...we get's what we get's
Consider them suckers "DONE" for porting...we get's what we get's