Here ya go

 

Mine's on the up-pipe and looks similar, but would come straight out towards the camera. Is yours some kind of right-angle dealy?? Can't tell because of the shadow...

Joe

 

The probe has a 90* bend just before the sensing head starts.

 

Just curious. Haven't seen many of these, but the right angle is kind of nice... The funny part is that when I put in my gauges, I did the pyro first because I figured it was going to be the biggest pain. I think I was done with it in 15 mins. The d@mn T-fitting for the boost gauge was the pain!! The ITP Overboost Annihilator hose is a bit thicker than stock, so the ID is smaller. I had a hell of a time getting that T in there!! I think I fought with it for at least 30 mins.

I used a piece of the original hose for the section between the T & manifold.

Joe

 

my pyro temps are pre turbo... after just running down the highway to work... a few minutes of idle will bring it below 300.. i shut it down at that point... however, if i have been towing... i let it idle a lot longer and i let it cool down below 250, i'll even let it go down to 200 if it will get down there...

 

Here's my version in the up-pipe:

 

Mine is also in the up pipe, and 2 min @ idle in the driveway, mine drops down below 300 just barely. I too am like cleatus and wait a while 3-5 min, to shut it down always. I used to alot in my old E350 7.3, with the doghoues everything ran hotter

 

This is my version, which uses a welded bung in the up-pipe that was done by a diesel shop in Las Vegas, NV in Nov, 2001, but he pic is recent. Before this was done, I had the probe in the Banks downpipe, and I was amazed how much faster the EGT responded to the throttle (both up and down) after I had the probe moved to the pre side. Does anyone see any exhaust leaks or whatever, the pipes are looking pretty rusty to me, but I guess that's par for the course for an 8.5 year old truck!

 

So the up-pipe is the best spot or accurate temps.

 

I think that the up-pipe or taping into the exhaust is equally good as far as accurate readings are concerned. The shop I went to does it in the up-pipe, they said it's easier, and less chance of screwing up the manifold by cracking it, etc...

 

Maybe, but when you have to replace the up-pipes, do you really want to have to move the probe? I wish I would have put it in the manifold.

 

As easy as it was to tap the up-pipe, I wouldn't have a problem with it. A cracked manifold would take 10x as long to replace as re-tapping an up-pipe...

 

Since everyone else posted theirs, I figured I'd add mine to the pile...



Joe