I Have A 2003 V10 The Brakes Were Pulsing, So I Change To Power Slot Rotors & Hawks Pads . This Fixed It For About A Week . Found The Front Suspention Was Loose , So I Tightend Everything Up Still Have The Problem. Talked To My Friend ,he Has A F250 Had The Same Issue , Ford Changed The Abs Module No More Problems. Does Anyone Else Have This Problem? I An Going To Disable The Abs Today & Try That .

 

sounds like a Abs THING. they pulse when activated

 

Still having the same issuse after disabling the ABS

 

I have the same problem on my 99 f150, going to tackle it this afternoon, I'm going to check the speed sensor. It happens to mine when completing a full stop..

 

The ABS speed sensor on the drivers side looks like it was hit by a rock or something, had a crack in it an a copper wire exposed, just unpluged it for now, seems to work fine except for the abs dash light being stuck on...

 

beeba .... have you made sure your calipers aren't sticking causing the pads to drag and heat to build up and warp the rotors?

 

I read where cleaning the rotors with a metal cup brush on a drill gets the gunk from the pads off..prevents the pulsing. Anyone try this?

 

I do this on my Corvettes & xcursion . Why people won't try it is beyond me . They'd rather throw piles of money@ it . Simple solutions don't have any appeal . Offer them slotted & drilled rotors treated with frozen fairy snot for big bucks .

 

I don't see how brushing the surface of a rotor with a steel brush will help?? I've done many a brake in my time and a pulse or vibrating issue is due to the rotor surface being untrue ( warped ) the pad is pushed away by the high spots then dropped down. It's called lateral runout.

Only time I've had issues with "GUNK" on a rotor was when a kid brought his Honda in for no brake issue. He'd painted his caliper, and whole rotor with red paint to make it look flashy.... LOL.

Maybe I'm missing something here.

 

I never heard this until recently when i read that some guys were cleaning their rotors and that had solved their pulsation problems...there is a great piece on the DieselStop forums about this.He does not think that cleaning or machingin will help though--- here is a quote;


"
You're not going to machine those hard spots out and the pulsation can come back in a short time, sometimes right after you've left the shop. This is why some dealers do not turn rotors at all. A good mechanic who listens to the rotor being cut can tell if it has hard spots and will toss it if it does. Most will be taking the rotor off the other side of the vehicle while the rotor is being turned and miss it. Often in a machined or sanded rotor, you can see the hard stops as shiny areas.

When the situation of organic material transfer came up, a number of companies developed ways of measuring the transfer layer. In some cases, doing the surface to surface thickness measurement, then dissolving the transfer layer or iron rotor away and measuring what remained. There still are aftermarket friction materials that have the issue, but your paying $20 for a set of those pads.

And abrasive is not always the best answer. Ask mechanics who worked on the 94-95 F-150's with the Performance Friction pads. Pads or rotors are not always the solution.""

so back to square 1 I guess

 

The major cause of warped rotors has always been the failure to use a torque wrench when tightening lug nuts and not observing the tightening sequence. Tightening lug nuts with an impact wrench and a pretty colored extension will not properly torque; See for yourself and carry a torque wrench with you to check the lug nut torque after a tire rotation. It can be as much as 20 ft lbs diffference between nuts.

Sticking caliper pistons will create hard spots on the rotor surface. Ford recommends turning the rotors in place and not removing them. As for me, I perfer replacing and not turning and replace with genuine Ford rotors and not the Chinese garden variety that AZone and others are famous for. Why compromise with your brakes, when your life depends on them?

It always amazed me how people would spend thousands of dollars on a sound system that could render them deaf, but buy the cheapest tires and brake componets. I guess if you can't hear the train it won't make any difference.

 

I have several vehicles, '94 F350 crew cab, 2000 Excursion, '99 F250 crew cab, 2004 F250, with the same pulsating problem. I have fixed the problem with new rotors and good pads. Chinese rotors from the discount stores only last a few months before wharping. Genuine ford rotors last the longest for me. Good pads and good rotors, clean installation, (no grease!) give the longest service. Heavy Trailer pulling takes a toll. Where can I find the Frozen Fairy snot? Do you put it on the rotor or on the back of the pads?

 

I believe the "Frozen Fairy Snot" was in reference to the Cryo'd Rotors. They freeze them to some ungodly temp below 0. This aligns the molecules in the rotor ... blah ... blah... blah. I believe they're Power Shot, or Power Slot Rotors or something like that.

 

Frozen Fairy Snot?!? Awesome!

 

I just installed Wagner Prem Ceramic pads (purchased from a forum sponsor) and turned my rotors. One thing that is really important. Pull the slide pins clean then and relube with the synthetic brake lube. This solved my brake pull and pulse issue. Compared to Factory brakes it "feels" like less pedal pressure to get the same stopping distance. This is on a 2000 Ex. 7.3 Jim