Lost #2 intake lifter...

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May 10, 2007 | 07:52 PM

#16

Redmanbob

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From: Mddl A MexCans

Shop at Dizzy Land expect to have to check the work

Hope the Party's are a great time, and you make them all... No drinking and driving... leave our truck at the first stop you start enjoying yourself at.. (if you drink) BOL..

May 10, 2007 | 11:29 PM

#17

Alvin in AZ

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From: Gadsden Purchase

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redmanbob

Shop at Dizzy Land expect to have to check the work ;)
No drinking and driving... leave our truck at the first stop you start enjoying yourself at.. (if you drink) BOL..

Yep would have been cool if the parts would have been the right size... i would have been done more than 24 hours ago. Turns out they are actually .030" under, ~3/32" difference between those and my used .060" over rods.

My buddies don't drink or smoke, they've been accused of being Mormons but since they cuss like sailors, I don't think they are. ;)

I'm sure they'd figure out a way to get me a ride but i don't want that... I want to get there under my own FE steam. :)

This doesn't count as the truck leaving me stranded. It wasn't broke down, it was running fine, I just decided to tear into it for the fun of it. :)

In over 32 years my clunky old pickup has never broke down and left me stranded, anywhere, ever. :)

Anyway back to work, got a few things i want to do yet.

Like, one valve was standing pretty high out of 16, I'm fiddling with that.
(#8 intake)

Its lash is .065" (with the shims) and a .060" over push rod and about .220" with a new .030" under rod.

Numbers are starting to look more like it huh?
...now that we know the new rods are .030" under.

The rest on that side are ~.120" to ~1.40" with the shims and .060" over rods.

Thinking about shortening (grinding off and re-polishing) a .060"-over-rod... about .045". :)

A new standard pushrod would give me .120" tho.

Alvin in AZ

Last edited by Alvin in AZ; May 10, 2007 at 11:42 PM.

May 11, 2007 | 06:28 AM

#18

kotzy

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I just dug out an old dusty book 390 calls for 100 to 200 thousands. With that in mind I guess if we pulled a lifter apart I would guess the measurement of the plunger travel would be about 300 thousands, or perhaps more. What you are trying to do with different lenght rod is center the travel of the plunger in the lifter bore. Your 65 measurement was a bit tight removeing the 60 longer rod should bring it to 120. The most important part of the whole operation is having the lifter collapsed and the cylinder being measured at tdc compression when checking the lash. Kotzy

May 11, 2007 | 08:33 AM

#19

Redmanbob

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From: Mddl A MexCans

One very important part is that the rocker tip rides on the valve tip like it should. If your off center it's gonna make for a wonder wear pattern and last forever and ever...

Leave you stranded ? You must be thinking of one of those other trucks

I can honestly say I yet to own a Ford that went out on me when I didnt have it comming

May 11, 2007 | 04:13 PM

#20

Alvin in AZ

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From: Gadsden Purchase

Kotzy and Bob, the dangged thing is clacking to beat hell.
.100 to .200" lash is just for stock Ford lifters? :)

Just got off the phone with CompCams and he said to measure the pushrod travel, he didn't care nuthing about the lash...
"we want the plunger pushed down into the lifter .030 to .060""
...when the lifter is on the cam's base circle.

"drop the push rod down on the lifter and mark it, tighten down the rocker shaft and mark the pushrod again"

That's about 1/32 to 1/16 of an inch.
There is more difference than that in the valve stem heights.

Hmmm... I need to call them again and find out how much total travel the plunger has, in the lifters I have. :)

This is my first experience messing with hydraulic lifters. :)

I think I like adjusting solid lifters better. ;)

Alvin in AZ

May 11, 2007 | 07:40 PM

#21

seetwisted

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Joined: Jun 2004

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From: las vegas nv.

Milling the heads, gasket variations,valve seat and stem variations,etc. etc. The combinations are endless, to get the preload right each valve has to be checked individually. Then the correct push rod for each one to bring the adjustment to the correct tolerences. Yeah...been here too. I figured they'd all be the same and hydralic lifters are supposed to take care of that...right? I ended up with the tighty loosey tappeys...and found pictures of a close to home dummy on the bottoms of my lifters. thats why if your motors going back with the same parts you keep all the parts in order to not mess up the preload...along with other reasons I have laboriously learned. I got mad and went with adjustable rockers and learned more things the hard way. But read here how to fix them all...

May 11, 2007 | 07:57 PM

#22

Bear 45/70

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From: Union, Washington

If the heads are done right, all the valve stems will be the same height, so if you check one and it's right, the rest will be too. Only now a days there are very few shops doing it right anymore. Back in the old days in the 60's and early 70's you could send your heads in and get them back done right, now, it's a bigger crap shoot than going to Vegas to win.